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anyone running a stock v8 flattie in there rod pics please

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by davesville, Jun 9, 2008.

  1. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    i love flatheads.multi carb supercharged detailed etc.i am building a 29 ford delivery on a budget hence the stock standard 1954 f 600 truck flattie.that i hope to use .i was hoping to see other standard flatheads in rods .what have you done to make it reliable.what transmission works best for you.any pics or info post it here.love to see those old rusty or non rusty flatties :)
     
  2. Isn't the motor for the F600's the big Lincoln motor?

    Very, very few speed parts for that motor.
     
  3. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    you may be right jr but over here things are a little different .i believe in 1953 the last flathead was produced in the u.s.in 1954 we got the canadian lineup i think was different .search v8 flathead identification under my username and you will see the engine(8ba or8rt)
     
  4. Not mine but here are a couple of pics........

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  5. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    thanks mate love it
     
  6. mtflat
    Joined: Jan 28, 2003
    Posts: 422

    mtflat
    Member

    I run a stock late model flattie - stock is probably the most reliable form. When guys start adding improvements, then they have to tweak things that weren't made to run that way. That's hotrodding. But if you want reliable, the 8BA in stock form is very good from my perspective - I've run one as a daily driver for the past 7 years in a 48 F1.

    fyi the F6/F600 used the small 239 ci V8. The lincoln 337 was only used in the F7F8's and only 48? thru 51 and were replaced by OHV's 279/317 in '52 trucks in the US.
     
  7. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,034

    Retrorod
    Member

    This is Flower's 8BA.......just got a new set of plug wires complete with Raja clips.
     

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  8. Stumptown Shoebox
    Joined: Dec 6, 2007
    Posts: 72

    Stumptown Shoebox
    Member

    I'm running a stock 53 Merc 255 (sorry no pics). I would spend the money on a good radiator, upgrade the stock fan, use a low-pressure radiator cap, and run thermostats (obvious but you'd be surprised by some people).

    The reliability of these engines is, in my opinion, phenomenal (knock on wood). I have done minimal tuning/maintenance over the last nine years and have had no problems running points, mech. fuel pump, etc.

    Converting to 12V (I did) makes starting a cinch too.
     
  9. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,637

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Had this stock 21 bolt in my coupe for three years before it lost oil pressure and I pulled it.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    thanks for the pics and advice as i need it.my first experiance with a flathead came when my father purchased a mercury 35 kva generator(ex air force i think because it had these fluttering guages.it was previously used as a back up generator for a drive in theater but only used twice .we used this on our poultry farm every day and provided 3phase power for a feed mixing plant.it was reliable and in 6years it never missed a beat i remember because when i walked past the (gennie shed)i would hear a majic burbling sound boy i wish i kept that motor
     
  11. AlbuqF-1
    Joined: Mar 2, 2006
    Posts: 909

    AlbuqF-1
    Member
    from NM

    Mine is bone stock internally, and buried under the hood of a F-1, so pics don't show so much. The 3 changes that make a big difference IMO are: alternator, electronic dizzy (MSD w/mech and vac advance), and a gear reduction starter. 12v operation is a part of that. An electric fuel pump is 4th on the list, but not as critical for a stock engine.
     
  12. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,756

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]

    Stock as a rock of unknown mileage. I just added the 2 97s and an old Mallory. It's a little tired but it never let me down.
     
  13. Stock 21 studder in here for about 7 years, never even had the heads off. Only non-stock item is the distributor-less ignition. Head gasket eventually let go so I put in a stone stock french engine. Only change to the french 24 stud engine was to fit 81A heads and truck pumps to reuse my Allard mechanical fan set up.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Crankhole
    Joined: Apr 7, 2005
    Posts: 2,644

    Crankhole
    Member

    Even in stock form, the best looking motor out there.
     
  15. glmke
    Joined: Jun 1, 2007
    Posts: 792

    glmke
    Member

  16. Crestliner
    Joined: Dec 31, 2002
    Posts: 3,033

    Crestliner
    Member

    My V8-60 in 30 A roadster
     

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  17. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,034

    Retrorod
    Member

    Our 8BA got 12 volts and a Pertronix kit after a complete overhaul and balance job. It runs perfect and it's really happy with it's T-5 trans.
     
  18. Rich Wright
    Joined: Jan 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,918

    Rich Wright

    Mine is a bone stock '40-'41 merc. raised deck 239, .020 and.010 on the crank. This engine was built in 1969 and sat til I aqquired it and started it up in 2003. It has a Ford remanufactured distributor complete with NOS points/condensor (they were just off the shelf parts when it was rebuilt), it stiil has the little Ford reman sticker on the front of the dist. I rebuilt a 2-brush generator and converted it to 12volt. '39 top loader, '46 rear end with 3:54 gears. cruises at 60-65 (it'll go faster, but that just means I don't get to drive it as long!). Gets 17 to 18 mpg and runs between 140 and 160 temp. I've been tempted to change heads and manifold..... but I just can't seem to get around to tearing into into it!! It runs like a watch!

    [​IMG]
     
  19. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    its good to hear other rodders are happy with the reliability of thier relatively stock flatheads.it sounds to me if i rebuild the carburettor convert to 12 volt use an aftermarket (non loadamatic)distributor and change the waterpumps and run new thermostats i should have a reliable flattie.thats all i want
     
  20. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    great plan Dave,
    I highly recommend performance ign. in mitcham(ithink?),
    they did an electronic 8BA dizzy for me and it rocked.
     
  21. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    did they use the stock distributor and what did you have to change
     
  22. lowsquire
    Joined: Feb 21, 2002
    Posts: 2,567

    lowsquire
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    nope brand new body machined to fit. uses a standard bosch module and pickup parts. vac advance, curved for a flatty.just drop it in. about five hundred with a coil and the best money you will ever spend on a street flathead. trust me.
     
  23. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    like to see a photo of that sounds interesting and probably the better choice.but i cant help asking what is so wrong with the original 53 ford distributor and can it be modified to be reliable.many threads on here advise an upgrade on the dizzy.having never owned a flathead v8 i am listening to others who know
     
  24. AlbuqF-1
    Joined: Mar 2, 2006
    Posts: 909

    AlbuqF-1
    Member
    from NM

    The stock dizzy is plenty reliable if you can get good 6v condensers. If you stay with the stock carb, you'll be bucks ahead to stick with the loadamatic and just reduce the current through the points with something like Pertronix. The vacuum advance p***ages in the stock carb are specific to loadamatics. I'd for sure go 12v alternator before converting to any electronics, though.
     
  25. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    thanks to eveyone who replied with pics and advice.finally found my engine number (thanks to flattattak website)stamped in at right rear of intake gasket face and reads as follows ( & arf2874 &)this does not relate to vanpelt numbers probably because its canadian and also truck. it also has raised numbers reading c 1 b a cast into the bellhousing.the motor is definitely canadian truck (c 8ba c 8rt cast into the inlet manifold.six bladed fan .8rt cast into the heads 94 carb with hand throttle control etc)some say the 8rt heads are lower compression than 8ba and that truck motors after 1951 had hardened intake and exhaust valve seats.i was told this engine is 1954 but i am not sure .hoping someone will have some information for me .thanks in advance dave
     
  26. InPrimer
    Joined: Mar 10, 2003
    Posts: 778

    InPrimer
    Member

    Bought a 52 F1 last yr, so far put in a petonix , alt and had starter rewound for 12V. so far so good The granny gearbox ****s, want to put in a T5 and S/10 or Ranger rear. all aside the smittys sound real good on it and I'll never get a speeding ticket with it. It's that slooo.
     
  27. davesville
    Joined: Dec 13, 2006
    Posts: 364

    davesville
    Member

    any canadian truck guys want to help me with this one
     
  28. Flat Ernie
    Joined: Jun 5, 2002
    Posts: 8,406

    Flat Ernie
    Tech Editor

    8RT not unique to Canadian applications. Used in trucks & they are the largest Ford combustion chambers (ie - lowest compression) for the 8BA-style engine. 8CM heads are large too.

    Find a set of EAB heads, clay your pistons & then mill the heads to end up with .050-.060" clearance over the pistons - you'll have a nice, crisp running flatty.
     
  29. Django
    Joined: Nov 15, 2002
    Posts: 10,198

    Django
    Member
    from Chicago

    What is involved in putting a pertronix in a '48 flathead? Is it as easy as in a modern distributor?
     
  30. arbs1976
    Joined: Mar 29, 2007
    Posts: 213

    arbs1976
    Member

    Here is my Merc I'm running the original motor never rebuilt it, but it runs very strong. Driven it 3200 miles this summer so far. It even survived a trip thru the Utah desert in 100+ temps.
     

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