My '50 Chevy project came with a 10-bolt Chevy rear. Don't know much about them. Are they stout? Plan to run a ZZ4/700R4 combo with it. Thanks! Oh yeah...what ratio are they?
It should be fine as long as you don't plan to bolt slicks on it weekly and run the 1320.. They will handle a good amount of abuse before self destructing. Do you know which one you have? They made a few different ring gear dia..the 8.5" is a pretty healthy rear end and will handle more than most people think. I've run a few and only destroyed one on the street..a smaller 7.5 one.. I had an 8.5 behind a strip built 12.5:1 327 in a 3200# car few year's back with no problems..
If you're concerned with strength you can weld the axle tubes into the third member, then add a girdle and axle tube braces along with "C" clip eliminators and Strange axles. Like this... http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp
Running 460 or so, minus the parasitic loss through the same rear. I hit it pretty hard at the strip. No transbrake or slicks, but big enough radials that there isn't any tire spin.
Poor mans way is to jack up the car and rotate the axle. If it's posi, lift both rear wheels. Mark the pinion yoke and housing. Spin the rear tires one revolution while counting the number of turns the driveshaft makes. If it turns 3 and 1/2 times per tire revolution you have a 3.50:1 ratio. if it turns 4.1 times you have a 4.10:1 ratio. If you have an open diff then you raise only one tire, but spin it two revolutions following the above mentioned steps. Or pull the cover and count teeth.
I ran a 8.5 for years in a 3500 pound car, 275 60 15 BFG tires, 455ci ( actually 462 now) Pontiac engine, tortured it, 373 gears. Ran high 11's. Could pull the front tires. I am amazed I didn't break it, but again, no slicks. They are plenty stout. Most "fast" street cars are only really running 14's in a quarter. The smaller 8.2 are pretty weak and painful, but again probably fine for your application. I wouldn't choose one, but if it is already in, run it, try to blow it. You probably won't blow the 8.2, definately you won't stress the 8.5 with that engine. Wil www.sakowskimotors.com
You should be fine with it. They get their wrap for being weak from the 4x4 crowd. With a locker, and running over rocks and different grades of traction will abuse any axle. I don't know what ratios the Camaros came from, but I have a 10 bolt out of a truck with 3.08s in it. SoiCal 57, I like that diff cover that will accommodate a truss.
I've ran 500+ through a stock Camaro 10 bolt for years just flogging on it and abusing the crap out of it. Worst case, you grenade it, go get another one. $150 or less The come in everything S-10s etc.... You then out a set of U-bolts. It is seriously a disposable axle. And I wouldnt think twice about beating the crap out of one.
I welded the spiders up on one and ran it on the strip with radials till I found a posi I could afford. Had a healthy 400 sb infront of it with a 2800 stall converter. Never had a problem with it.
There was an article in HotRod a few year back with guy running 9's with a 10 bolt (locker & 10" slicks) he claimed as long as you preload it before you launch they're good... So just avoid the neutral drops and you should be fine.
If you are going to beat on it, a safe bet would be a C-clip eliminator kit. Not that you'd be breaking axles but it gets real intense if you do snap one.
add posi add c clip eliminator will werk fine,had one in low 12 sec. 79 z28 for a long time!! good luck!!
They're for sure stronger than You would think. I will add that a set of good ring bolts is a good idea. The Monster Olds lunched a couple of those not long ago, but that was the extent of the damage. C-Clip eliminators have more than one benifit- it You lose an axle seal, You don't have to get into the chunk to replace it. They make stouter Axles for them as well. They're a low cost alternative to a 9 inch. not as tough in the long run, But I have seen scads of fast dragstrip passes on 10 bolts with no serious modifications wiith no issue.
the only strong 10 bolts are the 8.5" 10 bolts. they came in Camaros and Fireturds from 1971 thru 1981. the S10 and later model f-body rears are no where near as strong.Ive made many 10 sec passes on a stock 8.5 and now with better axles and a spool run 9.80's.
yep right on the money..... and they also came in full size cars. and G bodys specificly 84-87 GN/T-types and 442's and 94' - 98' S-10 ZR-2. The quick way to distinguish them from the P.O.S. 7.5" is the squared notches on the bottom of the housing... the 7.5" will have fangs hanging down hope that helps P.S. a good 8.5 will run over $500 and thats a Smoking great deal. Most are over $1000. The $150 price mentioned before is for the P.O.S. 7.5" rear. and thats overpriced as they are only worth their weight in scrap
Learned a lot about it since last post. It's an 8.5 (has the square bosses on the lower part of the housing) from a '73 Camaro w/350 and automatic. Ratio is either 2.73:1 or 3.08:1. Thanks for all the help!!! Mo
Hello All, I also have a few 10 bolt questions as I currently have what I've been told is a GM 10 bolt rear in my Model A coupe project. It has a tag on it specifying limited slip gear lube. I was wondering if anyone could help identify it for me. I also got a spare one with the car that is setup for a transverse spring. It has a slightly different cover and center section. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks, Mike
Yep, that is actually the key to making ANY rear last a lot longer... They also have less power loss through the rear than a 9...
Go to http://novaresource.org/axle.htm. There you will find pictures to help you identify your rear ends. They look to me like a 7.5 (shiny one) and an 8.2, but check it out for yourself...Mo
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