bruce, is there a body parts book for these cars? i have the 28-37 ch***is book and then spiral bound 35-6 resto book plus the service bulletins what else can i spend money on? thanks alot!
hey hey.... that's looking a lot better than it did Saturday,.. I forgot to go down and take a look after work... so.. when are you building the Oakland stadium so we can go racing?
Parts books: You need 1936 ***ulation...better than the common '37 for your stuff by far. Remember, fenders and hood are in the ch***is book. My '35 book is from Australia or NZ. I've never seen a US one, though iot surely had to exist since car was nearly all new. There is a '35 body parts book. Available in reprint, I think you will find illustrations less than you hope. A real goody, also has been reprinted, is the heavily illustrated trim and hardware catalog. I only have '32 edition.
thanks bruce i'll go hunting! kinda sorta wana go about this like a restoration, then modify it to my tastes once its a nice solid complete car
i'll trade the whole pile of 36 parts for a whole pile of 35 parts but it has to be a straight trade....grill for grill hood for hood etc i have all the 36 stuff except fenders rad, hood, grill, inner fenders & braces
there is no mechanism for the bonnet, there is a piece which bolts to the firewall and there is another small piece which bolts to the grilleshell/top of the radiator underneath the grille ornament, both pieces are the same and the part no. is B-8220 from macs, between these goes the hood centre strip part no. 40-16632 - this strip holds both sides of the hood together and clips over the pieces front and back where it will hinge open. the hood catches then latch onto the radiator at the front and there should be a small clip near the bottom of the cowl for it to hook into at the rear.
thanks weemark looks like I've got the cowl piece still on there so basically i need the 35 fender braces(short or long), inner fenders, radiator with latch attached for hood, full hood with strip grill shell, and the mounts for the hood center hinge? my intentions are 40 chevy headlights on it so i dont need the extra headlight stands i guess for any strength issues?
i dont know how the 40 chevy headlights mount, 35s mount on a little stand and the bolts from the stand go down through the fender and through the fender brace so it all bolts up together.
If you need pictures of the ***embled pieces or detail.........my sedan has 99% of the parts still intact, I can't shoot a few images any time, just PM me.
I had same problem on my 36 and followed information below found on Ford Barn Forum. Someone also sent me link to one on HAMB with photos. It took about 5 minutes and it worked. Very simple to get the ignition cyl out without destroying any thing. You will have to get down under to look at this. I am refering to the column drop that the key cylinder is in. Right under the Cylinder there is a small hole around 3/16 inch in diameter. Take a 1/8th drill bit and drill up into the center of that hole. Just as you feel the drill bit go through the plug stop and remove the drill bit. Next get a sheet metal screw long enough to go up inside where you just drilled, turn the screw in fairly snug then take a pair of vise grips and clamp them onto the screw. Next take a small hammer and hammer down on the vise grips, the knurled plug will come out. Now take a cotter pin small enough to go in where the key usually does, you will have to bend a little hook on the cotter pin, now for the final part pull on the cotter pin and the cylinder will come out and your key code will be right there on the outside of the cylinder. Go to your lock smith and get a key cut, maybe 2. Install all in reverse as removed. The knurled plugs are available at Mac's, Carpeter, etc. There is a small indent at the bottom of the cylinder this is where the plug goes so just line it up put the plug into the hole and drive it in with a punch, till it sets. Make sure you get the right year key for authenticity. Best of luck and keep us posted, hope this helps you out.
Only dif for '35 is that it used early cylinder, retainer plug is considerably smaller than '36 up...so move that drill size down a tad.
thanks guys i pulled the bolts from the column drop last night and rotated to see the pin in plain view it is alot smaller then the later ones i may give it a shot this evening if i get time is it worth tapping the pin then putting a screw in? or just thread in a sheet metal screw? another words....how tight are they?
It wasn't too terribly tight in 1935... If you try to pull it, don't use anything harder than a drill bit just in case it snaps off in there. I am presently poking around a butchered one headed for Harrison that has a snapped off EZ Out and lots of drill slippage...nothing unsaveable but a roaring nuisance to extract without too much damage now. Be sure to check door cylinder first--you can get it out quickly and it should match if original.
well......door cylinder has the screw stripped and a nut around it...plus the whole ***embly isnt ligned up with the hole to access it... i think if i cut the hole slightly larger i could probably get the nut off and maybe get it free'd up then? its soaking with oil right now so we'll see
Hi Zach Nice coupe you found there ! Is it home yet ? If not , then just remove the draglink , and turn the wheels by hand when moving it onto your trailer / into your garage . Deal with the lock later. ( My2c ) Klaz
Can anyone explain to me how to adjust the headlight on the 35 ford? My headlight unit can be moved but I don't know how to loosen or tighten it.
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