i started to sand the hood of my 52 shoebox and have come to the conclusion that their is 6 coats of frigin paint not including primers, how in the hell did this shit ever stick??? I ended up snding the entire hood to the first coat of paint above the initial primer and the same with the rf frnder that i did about half of it, you can see metal in some spots my question is should i take it down to bare metal or leaving this first coat down ok, i was planning on shooting the entire car in etching primer then filler??? secondly is their someone in the ann arbor area that could help me with the body work as i still have 2 small panels on the rr to be welded in and i dont have good luck at this in those areas as i end up getting bubbled panels when i am done maybe a little thrashing type party for a couple of guys or gals
If you're using the elbow grease to knock down 5 layers, whats one more to give you a fresh start? Always better to start fresh, then you have no one to blame but yourself.
Hey Dave, 'doubtful the factory primer is of much value,today. If there is any rust under that primer, now's the time to find out about it! Given what paint materials costs have gone to, it just doesn't make any sense to try and prime or paint over old work, OEM or otherwise! Ya can't go to far from correct, by startin' with bare treated metal and an epoxy primer to start with. Swankey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
that what i had a feeling i was gonna hear, ok next question is should i have it blasted or what can i blast it with as not to warp it
i use a floppy disk with 80 grit im fast sweeping motions to go most of the way, then a d/a with the same to get at the bare metal. knock out the dings and dents and get the paint out of them the same way. as far as the welding, without warping i put wet rags around the areas im gonna weld, and go one tack at a time, spaced about 3-4" apart, then go back, next to the first tack not tacking any two within that distance in a row until its filled. yes, you do wanna go all the way down
Hey, Sand, can be used for blasting, but it takes someone with good judgment to know how to handle sheetmetal, when blasting. Last sandblast quote I got was for $6-800.00 for a Merc body. Media blasting may be better and cheaper, if it's available in your area. Swankey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
Strip Allthe Old Shit Off. Dont Leave The Old Laquer Crap There . Git Rid Of It! Strip It Down,etch Prime Then Seal
does the etch primer from napa have sealer in it??? im not a body guy, i love the mechanical end of cars
The paint/primer from NAPA should be Martin Senour http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/ It still looks like you will have to get the spec sheet on the primer you are looking at to make sure though. I've used their products for years and always have had good luck with it. On blasting the paint off the car. Most guys who have that done have the car soda blasted as it doesn't tend to harm the sheetmetal like sand does and it doesn't harm glass or chrome. You would have to check in your area for prices as it tends to differ in different parts of the country.
Almost all etch primers do not offer any protection like a sealer. Also etching primer is designed for bare metal applications so stripping all the paint is the only way to go, you'll be happier with the long term outcome starting with all fresh paint materials, less chance of any sinking or bonding problems. If you want to start with bare metal but have a little more protection, I would suggest an epoxy primer. It will give you the same adhesion and more protections from the elements.
those are 2 different things man. strip it down bare like others have said, rough in your body work with any metal work that needs done, welding, raising dents etc, I like to dress welds with the aluminum based fillers like "metal 2 metal" get your initial poliester filler work done, then clean the whole car, lay down your epoxy & over the epoxy you can do some of your final steps which may include skim coating with very light thin 2 part poliester filler, block sanding etc. Lotta guys (including me) will like to use the super hig build surfacers like a poliester primer (pretty much liquid bondo) for that final skim coat. Block, block, block!! gotta love that board, be the block.... Get yourself some basic sanding boards like the old hutchins speed file boards, these days there are some pretty cool flex blocks out there too. when you are happy with your body work, that's when you seal.
Defiantly go to bare metal, you have to do a lot of work already to get all of that old paint off of there and it isn't much more work to get the last coat off. Body filler also does not stick well to paint or primer so that is another reason to get all of the old crap off, not to mention you don't really know what is all there that car could of had a repair done to the original finish and you wouldn't know if it was an enamel job or lacquer job and you will hate yourself if you try to paint over lacquer with an enamel paint.
http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/pds/martin/8104.pdf NAPA (Sherwin Williams) TRIO/PRIME is a milder self etching primer that can be used very easily on bare metal and followed wet on wet after 30 minutes with a good quality 2K urethane primer surfacer. This is a good system and can be used over areas of body filler and smaller areas of old paint (read the whole tech sheet). The vinyl wash primers are different and stronger etch and should not be used over old paint or body filler. When you strip off the old paint and primer, you usually remove the original phosphate coating on the steel. Self etching primers (like TRIO/PRIME) are an easier way to replace that protection. It's not quite as good (pretty close) as re-phosphating the metal, but a lot easier and much less work and still gives good bare metal protection. You can do sections at a time as you strip and do body work. If you find some small imperfections in your metal/body work. you can still use a catalyzed glazing putty over the sanded 2K urethane fill primer/surfacer. Sometimes just a couple more coats of hi-build 2K will do to straighten out the panel. There are similar products from other paint companies that use the same system. Mild self etch primer followed by a good high-build 2K urethane is my prefferred method for old cars after stripping or blasting. If I sandblast the body metal I usually run a DA sander over the bare metal with 180-120-or 80 grit to smoothe out the blasting texture/profile before priming. If I'm not doing the body work for a while, I just use the self etch/2K urethane and later I will grind it off in areas I need to do welding or filler work. overspray
If your doing it already, might as well do it once and do it right. Ya its gonna suck cause the more you dig the more surprises you will find. The pay off, you know its right, and you get the experiance for the next time. Might take awhile, but hey thats the price you pay.
I might be able to help you on the welding end, but I am tied up until at least July 8th. Let me know. BTW, do you have welding gear, or would I need to bring my own?
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