Car now has 3" blocks in rear. Want to lower the rear more to hide the hubcap... (see pics). Maybe add 1" blocks and take out a leaf (is this comparable to 2" blocks?)? Or just add 2" blocks. For a total of 5". Will either of these get it there? And which will ride a little better? Input is much appreciated.
Do you already have a c-notch? I have lowering springs and 3" blocks, and whack the frame on Missouri bumps.
as Sled said..probably not going to get the *** much lower with out suspension issues, or the drive shaft tube hitting the tunnel..and watch out for that scub line issue too..
No C-notch. And stock leafs. What alternatives do I have to notching? How about just adding 1" blocks to the already 3"?
Its not a good idea to stack blocks, also make sure they dont hang blow the scrub line. NOT SAFE. Just pull some leafs
In my experience, anything after 3'' your going to be beatting that frame up with your axle. But hey, we've all done it before! If your going to add more then one lowering block in, make sure its the kind with the dimples, or little knobs, on them. so when you stack them they kinda interlock. But if it were me I would leave the 3 inch block, and take out a leave. see how it looks. But you might have issues with the driveshaft rubbing.
Sorry, I'm new at this. Too many damn questions! Ok, so maybe pull 2 leafs? Or just buy new 4" blocks and u-bolts?
DO NOT STACK BLOCKS! I had 4" blocks in the Stude for a while and with just the pinion shims, everything wanted to start coming loose. I would use 3" blocks and loose a leaf or two. I ended up dearching my springs and am much happier with the result.
3" is about the maximum you can lower it without hitting. I've read of guys lowering it 4" without c-notching, but they hit either rear into trunk pan or shaft into tunnel/floor. If you can get around the tunnel/floor issue, you're gonna have to cut the trunk pan or c-notch to drop it another 1.5" or more.
When pulling leaves, alternate which ones you take out. from the main down, remove 2 and 4, leaving #3 in there. You can't flip the main (reversing eyes) or you will rub on a rivet and crack the main leaf. If you still have the stock torque tube, there isn't much torsional flex on the perch, so adding blocks won't cause wheel hop like it does on the open drive setup, which I have. You really need to notch it and loose the bumpstops to go past a 3" block. Going to an open drive actually raises the rear, the distance of that pivot perch they used. So my lowering springs just put it back around "stock" height.
no one makes 4' blocks for the narrow spring, youll have to make em yourself. but be careful i made some for my car, and now if my tire goes flat my u-bolts s****e pavement. ima get lower springs made eventually, when that happens ill give you my fours if you still want em
Right on. I appreciate that. Gonna try to get it a little lower before going out to Primer Nationals in August.
I was running 3" blocks with stock springs in my '40. Not the same car I know but here is what I did. I added one more inch block just to drive it and find out any issues I may have before I spent money on springs. I had to add a bubble under the seat for the rear end housing, jack up on the floor for a little extra drivshaft clearance, move the exhaust and the rear end hits the snubbers. I worked through all of the problems, except the snubber issue. I still need to c the frame and raise the snubbers. I went with Ch***is Engineering springs and about 2.5 inches of block in the end. I stacked blocks to work through and find issues. It's a quick way to find out if it's worth doing. Jeff
That happened to me before! scared the **** outta me.. I was on the 10 freeway right by staples center! haha and to top it off the u bolts got bent so it was real hard to get the nuts off. plus it was so low I could barely fit the jack under it. What everyone has said is pretty much 100% right on, I had 3" blocks and would hit frame sometimes, but not too bad. C-notch is not that hard to do. My buddy has adjustable air shocks and a c-notch, and i think monoleafs in his 53. Seems to work pretty well and sits nice. kinda like a poor mans airbags for now. You can also run a little smaller rear tires, not 560's though..those are too small.
You should have at least 3" of travel left or you will have issues with it bottoming out, as has been said. Again, Don't lower it to the point that if a tire goes flat, you are dragging something on the ground. Running Coker tires? then this counts double... Torque tube rearends shouldn't be run "uphill". You will slowly send all the gear lube to the front... Open driveshafts shouldn't be run uphill either if you are using leaf springs, as the pinion can pitch up when under load and pinch the rear u-joint... If you just wanted it low for shows, you could go with a hydraulic setup or the airshock route, then you could adjust as needed.
I de arched the springs on my 54 by 4 inches. Drives fine, but be carefull with speed humps etc, or you will be getting your fillings redone. I don't get driveline or pumpkin hitting the floor but them snubbers are firm! I have heard there is something like a variable rate snubber that can take the jarrring out of hitting the bumpstops - anyone? I'm not sure its the look you want for your car but you used to be able to get a trim piece that sits below the fender skirt. It is a continuation of the stainless gravel shield and wil show a lot less wheel.
This is a daily driver. So I'd like to keep it within reason, but don't mind a bumpy ride. Bagging it is not option for me. Too much $$$ and I don't have any skills! Here's a pic of my current set up with the 3" blocks. Bolts hang about an inch below scrub line because of the second locking nut and excess bolt running through. Seems to me, removing one or two leafs would help this situation. I'm running stock torque tube. So hopefully drive shaft clearance will not be an issue. As I stated before, I really have no experience and am just winging it! So, please correct me when I'm wrong.
I'm also an advocate against stacking blocks, but like already said, no matter HOW you do it, you'll be riding on the frame. C-notches really aren't that hard to install... If you don't have any welding skills, a good welder could do it for you in a few hours at most. Also, if you simply remove leafs you'll increase body-roll and decrease stability in turns.
So, your saying there's no need to have it "double nutted". No risk of vibrating loose if there's just one?
Whenever your suspension bottoms out you risk binding. If your frame slams into the axle you also risk the energy of that impact translating into your steering and front end suspension depending on the force during impact. It also depends on how spongy the leafsprings get. If you have too much body roll it can cause other issues such as brake line pinching or stretching, shock binding and/or failure, tire rub if the body sways too much. I would try to do this correctly. Have the leafs dearched or reverse the spring eyes and C-notch the frame.
this might sound funny but we have a 54 with the same skirts and I never did like the way the skirts seem to need to go 1.5 inches lower to flow with the body. if they did you would hide more hubcap. dont get me wrong I do plan to lay frame some day and appreciate threads like this one.
I still would make up a quick set of blocks to get the car sitting where you want it. Then you will have a good idea what you will need to do to the floor, frame, and exhaust to make it work. With the torque tube still there you shouldn't have to do any welding, do you? Jeff
On my '56 the C-notches needed to be welded in, maybe there is a bolt-in type...not sure. What does the torque tube have to do with not welding?
They came stock with 1 nut & a lock washer.. Why would you think it needs 2 now ? Quality U~Bolts & hardware is the key. If you plan on going lower you WILL need to notch the frame ( welding required ) Looks like a nice car so do it right. If your only worried about covering the wheel, Lengthen the skirt to fit all the way to bottom of the body. I have never liked the way the Chevy skirts didnt go all the way down.
look at atomicustoms chevy..yes the skirts do not go all the way down but there was an after market stainless pakages offered called "Belair Bloomers" that filled that gap and it looks sweet when installed..Im still having a ***** of a time with mine..I may decide to alter the skirt to fill that gap and screw the "bloomers"..but they do look nice.
Well, based on what you're saying, it would seem like you are trying to do too much then ??? Considering the hazard that you have created allready, why make it worse? If hiding the hubcaps is your main goal, then perhaps modifying the skirts, or buying a set of "bloomers" would make more sense? http://www.nationalchevy***oc.com/shop-online/product/1566.html
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