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Seat dye....what brand,what gun TIP?????

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BBobb, Jun 18, 2008.

  1. BBobb
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,865

    BBobb
    Member

    I am about to atempt to dye my first set of seats and i am clueless on what and where to start looking for the dye.And will i need a special tip for my gun to shoot the productTHANKS FOR ANY HELP
     
  2. SaltCityCustoms
    Joined: Jun 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,212

    SaltCityCustoms
    Member

    SEM is a good brand for dye's. You won't need any special tip for it, I don't know what tip you have but somewhere in the 1.4mm range is good.
     
  3. BBobb
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,865

    BBobb
    Member

    sounds great.I used the SEM hot rod black on my model a and thought it was a great product
     
  4. 1radcad
    Joined: Jul 15, 2007
    Posts: 8

    1radcad
    Member
    from sacramento

    my family owns an upholstery shop in sacramento and we hear this issue a lot. If you just buy a rattle can of dye and and spray, the dye will either fade, crack and chip off in a little while. Dying a seat is a lot like doing paint and bodywork. First of your need to clean the seat covers with soap and water to remove all the dirt and grime from numerous year off wear.
    A product from SEMS called Prep Wash is another step we use to further clean the seat and prepare a clean base for dye adhesion. Then we use a product called Bulldog Adhesion Promoter that sprays on clear but is very flexible, perfect for seat covers. It acts like primer, getting the covers surface ready to catch and hold dye.Wait the appropriate dying time, which is crucial, i think its either 15 or twenty minutes , then get ready to spray the right color dye.
    We use a SEMS product dye, which we`ve been using for years with no issues. You`ll probably need to spray at least 2 light coats of dye
    or more depending on if you can still see the old color of the cover peeking through.
    And the final step is to use a SEMS Clear over the dye, at least 2 coats. The Clear comes in satin, semi gloss, and gloss finishes. You don`t have to do this last step, but I always do `cause the last thing I want is for the dye to get on clothing, even after its completely dry. The clear between you and the dye is like an insurance barrier. (I`ve seen customers try this and not prep it right and their clothes get messed up. Sux for them.) Once that is finished and the seat cover is competely dry, install as neccessary. Remember that when you go to clean the covers in the future, try not to use a harsh cleaner, otherwise you`ll just be removing some of the clear in spots. Best to use slightly soapy water or a mild detergent based clean with no alcohol. And DO NOT USE ARMOR ALL. Armor All will eventually dry out your covers, leading to cracking and separation of seams.
    Good luck to ya and I hope this helps out.
     
  5. BBobb
    Joined: Feb 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,865

    BBobb
    Member

    Thanks a bunch for the detailed info
     
  6. 1radcad
    Joined: Jul 15, 2007
    Posts: 8

    1radcad
    Member
    from sacramento

    no prob. man, glad to help. go kick some seat covers` ass.
     
  7. I have used SEM (many moons ago) on a fabric interior, worked killer. Trick was to brush it with a clean nylon brush to keep it from looking like shellacked fabric!Q
     
  8. HotRodToomer
    Joined: Jun 25, 2006
    Posts: 857

    HotRodToomer
    Member

    on my original 49' vinal seat i used the spray can 'Vinal & Fabric' dye, all i did was wipe it down and spray, the truck had no drives window for....well the whole time i owned it.....and it never faded, streaked or rubbed off. and neither did it from my wallet chain, or back pack, or car parts.
     
  9. butch27
    Joined: Dec 10, 2004
    Posts: 2,846

    butch27
    Member

    I did a Falcon 11 years ago ( light gray over metallic blue seats) with "PRODUCT 40" from England. Used a foam brush. Best stuff I've ever seen. They restore Jags with it.
     

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