Excuse my noobness but doesn't this set up put some extreme stress on the bones/axle connection? Maybe I'm just not looking at it correctly but it looks like it would bind badly.
Yep that is NOT a good way to connect axle to locating arms, way too much shear force on that bolt, and your arms are parallel to ch***is, so diff will act like a giant torsion bar when one wheel drops in a hole or goes over a bump, and eventually something will give. You are obviously a talented fabricator/welder, I think you need to research rear end design more before welding that mount up solid. heres a helpful thread.. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=263584
Could he just pull the radius rods in closer to center like the originals and things should be much better then? There sure is a lot of old rods out there built similar to this, but I guess there is no point not learning from history, otherwise carry spare bolts.
How about using the wishbone link as bottom link of a triangulated 4 bar set up. It would still look cool from the side but fasten to the bottom of the axle tube with some fabbed brackets and a rod bushing. Instead of running bushing up and down like the bolt used now, lay it down in line with the axle.Looks like you could use the brackets youve already made just cut them loose and reposition them. Then fab some 1 inch thickwall tubing links with adjustable rod ends from the pumpkin housing out to the frame rails completing the "triangles". This would also work great for an open drive banjo rear.
Personally I don't see any problem. It is basically the same set up as used in Ford front axles for years. Pivots from the heim arm end. I may add a panhard bar to keep side movement down. Any updates? Don't let the HAMB builders police get you down. Just turn the cab around and they will be happy with a front wheel drive A pickup. My .02
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