June Already? Another Damn BANGER MEET!!!

My question is banger related, I just didn't word it that way/left out details. http://www.millerhi-speedheads.com/transadapter.htm states that the T5 needs to be from a V6, I found one today from a 4 cyl. I thought they were the same so I was looking to see what the differences were to see why the 4 cyl T5 would not work.

 

As far as I know (I have not checked all 4 cyl applications) The 4cyl and 6 cyl trans have a 14 tooth spline.
You need the 14 tooth input shaft for the Model A conversion.

Some Jeep T-5's had the same 14 spline input shaft.

Most 2wd trans have the 3:76 first gear. The 4wd trans has a 4.03 first gear. I put the 2wd gears in my 4wd trans for the torque tube set up I did.

 

so its a never ending cycle right. i'm seing the the light at the end of the tunnle on the Amod and wife wants me to start on her wagon(63fairlane500) but i finally got a good Ttouring front in a trade and i also think i have a Aframe coming my way. so i'm seeing a T/A rpu. then a guy at work says he may have a line on a good 4 banger block crank and parts. which really gets me thinkin, that would go nice with the 46 banjo i have leaned up in the corner. so now the question is should i build a street car or try to getin to the flat four 100mph club?

 

So does anyone have a spare AA bellhousing that they would sell? Are these off AA trucks or does the AA mean something else?

 

They are from the AA trucks. Still come up on eBay occassionally, or you can ask on Ahooga.

 

Think there's one on eBay now...

380038211950

 

I am watching it. I sent them a message to make sure it is what I need but they do not seem to fond of replying to questions. Thanks

 

That is definitely an AA bellhousing. There are six lug holes on the mating surface whereas the standard A just had four, and there is no boss for the pedal shaft to enter. That's because the AA had the pedals coming out the side of the trans itself, rather than the bellhousing.
These are getting hard to find so that isn't a bad price either.

EDIT: Just noticed that it is Dick Spadaro selling the 'housing. He knows his bangers, you can trust him.

 

Yeah. I took one leaf out (3rd biggest), and it rides pretty spongy. I am going to re-install the leaf and reverse the eyes on the main leaf, to stiffen it up yet lower it the same. I also do not have shocks on the car, so with them added I hope it will do the trick.

I am really happy with the results though. It lowered it a good 2"

 

Thanks for the info. One comment regarding shocks. I'm setting my RPU up with "stock" "A" shocks and found that if this is done with a reversed eye spring your shock lever is up about 20 degrees from level. I realize that the Houdaille shocks work on a hydraulic system consisting of vanes and porting so this angularity possibly would not be a problem but rather than take a chance I shortened up the tubular links the length of the spacer and welded them. So far, on the front, this seems to bring the lever back to the level position. This is because of the reversed eye and a couple of leaves removed. The drop in the 32 axle has no effect on this as the 32 spring perch keeps the same location as to the shock mounting.
More trivia for you.

" I can;t tell you what to do but I can tell you a lot of things not to do! "

 

I have thought of this Bill, one reason I do not have shocks on the car yet! I have been thinking of installing tube shocks on the rear of the car. Tube shocks were on the scene in the era that I am building for....although a mechanical shock is far better looking in my eyes. I guess the main thing for me is the $$$$$. I do not have 500-600 hundred dollars to spend on a set of shocks!!!! Call me cheap

 

Hi nice coupe ! What shackles did you use with the T spring to A rear since the A is wider ? I've been following your progress but I can't recall ( so big surprise there) if you Z'd the rear cross member or just used the T spring.
thanks

 

I did not Z the frame, it is all stock in the rear with the exception of the spring. I used "A" shackles and bushings. I simply installed the bushings so they stick out about 1/8" on each side of the spring, and then hung it. The spring will not move and everything is secure. I guess you could make some 1/8" spacers to go on each side of the spring to take up the gap, but I did not feel it nessecary.

 

I bought several "good" cores and none were good enough to rebuild so I bought a set outright from Berts for about $400 then i bought a set of tubular links and 1 arm so I probably have close to $500 invested with shipping. I went this way so as to be closer to period correct for the age of the RPU. After WW2 tube shocks became very popular so if you are trying for the 50's 60's look tube would be right on. I plan on using tubes on my 31 coupe if i ever get back to work on it>

 

The "newest" part on my car is the 48 Merc caps...I was going for the early-mid 50's look, so I know tube shocks would not hurt it....I just really like the look of the mechanical better!

 

I hope to have the same stance as your coupe on mine. I had planned on a flat head V8 but now I am leaning towards a Riley 4 port as I have one just taking up space on the bench. I am also going to use a torquematic trans so I can drive it. The coupe that I have has a 2" chop and I have an original "B" or 32 shell with a fresh recored radiator with the radiator opening under the hood as the shell is filled. I have to decide between Kelseys, stock ford 16" solids or steelies, or I have a set of 15" ford wheels. This coupe is a late 31 setting on a 29 frame with 29 fenders and running boards.

 

Another question. Does it matter what year bellhousing or are they all the same?

 

Im back. What clutch do I use A or S10? Sorry if a lot of the questions have been asked before.

 

I believe all "AA" bellhousings would be the same. As to the clutch I think they use a chevy S 10 disc with a ford pressure plate.

 

I made an adapter for my T-5 to stock A bellhousing. I did not use the AA housing. The clutch disk is a special piece that has an exstended splined hup and pilot exstention as the in put shaft on the T-5 is shorter then the Model A input shaft. I got the clutch disk from Auto Restorations in Munci, IN. 800-955-3139

 

Hi againi finally got my 29A banger engine running well on the holley and now its pouring water out of the overflow tube when on half throttle or so - but its fine on idle

i have flushed and backflushed the rad and block etc in case of partial blockages but not found any signs of a problem, should i suspect head gasket?

the hoses are not getting pressurised when motor is running and the water coming out is not discoloured (no anti-freeze in it at the moment as i recentlry flushed through)

any ideas on the cause?

thanks

Vince

 

Are you over filling the radiator?

 

I'm not filling it to the brim but at the same time im not sure where a fill-level would be. would it sort itself out after a short time if it were over-filled - after expelling what it considers excess fluid?

i dont wanna just drive round and risk the motor for sake of doing some homework

thanks

 

You're cheap.

On my Fordor I'm running some '39 lever arms that I stole from another one of my cars in the lot, topped up with "something thicker"... Bolted straight up with some B shock links.

On the rear I appear to have a pair a pair of Morris Minor lever arms. Not quite man enough to control the Sedan lurching over on corners, so reckon I'll swap them for some uprated MGB ones.

 

I would say run it and see if the flow stops. Some times when you rev the engine the water pump will run too fast and force the water out.. Racers use a smaller crankshaft pulley to slow the pump down.
I personally would just keep a close eye on it but that is my opinion. You might do some searching on the fordbarn forum regarding the baffle and location of the overflow tube. I had to bend the tube on my 29 so it would clear the Motometer so I know it was not supposed to be in the center of the opening. I just bent it to the rear. Some imply today the location is critical but I don't remember having a problem 50/60 years ago. We just drove and added water when they got hot, not really, but in those days there was a water hose or bucket available on every pump island so you usually added water, if needed, when you bought gas. Air was free too!

 

The fill line for the radiator is generally considered to be where the blue ford logo is on the stock shell. That would be about an inch and a half to 2 inches down from the top of the neck

Also, make sure the overflow tube that is in the neck almost reaches up to the top of the neck, or you are always going to have overflow. It will equalize out and be fine, so let it burp for the first few drives, and if you aren't overheating, you are fine.

 

Back on to bellhousings.....I've just stuck my head under my Tudor (i've not had it long...) and noticed that the T-5 is mated to an A 'housing, not an AA.
However, I adapted a modern 4-speed trans to my other banger and used an AA 'housing for that.

 

I had a guy on here PM me with one. He said it was off a '30/'31. He is supposed to get me some pics on Monday of it.

 

There have been at least 2 articles on the S 10 or T 5 conversion in the FAST newsletter/magazine. One adapted an "AA" bell housing, the other used an "A" to V8 adapter and a flathead to S10 adapter, Cornhusker makes a flathead to S 10 adapter. A friend of mine went with the adapter and it worked fine. One reason the "AA" bell housing was used was stated it is approx. 1" shorter. The article on the "AA" bellhousing didn't say what clutch plate he used but the one with the adapters said he used a 9" chevy disc with a 9" flathead pressure plate THe one with the "AA" made a 1" trans adapter plate and mounted his pedals to it. Both fabricated adapters for the torque tube. Neither torque tube adapter looked as solid as the one made by Crazydaddyo If you can find the articles they have a lot of photos.
I have misplaced my index for the FAST mag. so I can't tell you what issue the articles were in. If you really need them I will look them up for you.

 

thnaks for the help with the overflowing rad, its nearly 2 am here so tomorrow i'll see what it does driving round the lanes a few times. suck it n see.

cheers

vince