how do I remove 'one-shot' sign paint lettering???

What is the safest way to remove one-shot sign enamel lettering from my rod???

lettering is painted ON TOP of clearcoat finish.....

I heard that easy off oven cleaner would work but I am afraid to try it because I don't wanna damage the clear.....

has anyone here dealt with this issue???

thanks.....

 

Rubbing compound and a buffer? Be careful though...

 

a diaper and enamel reducer and much rubbing and it willcome off completely without hurting the clearcoat...

 

If its dry enamel reducer and a diaper ain't gonna work,,,unless you got a few years of your life to invest spent rubbing. HRP

 

I've heard Oven Cleaner on a Rag will work. Might want to try on a inconspicuous spot and chase it with something.

 

EZ Off oven cleaner works great..
many years ago i read this in one of those "tips" articles in hot rod or one of those mags,,
i have a detailing business and have used the method many times,,works great,,,usually takes several applications and you will have to run over the area with your buffer afterwards,,but if you are careful, it'll turn out great.....

 

EZ-Off is what I use

 

Don't know the answer, but saw a pretty little thing get her thigh's pinstriped with one shot at Beatersville today. Kinda wondered how hard that would be to lick, I mean get off there.

 

Oven cleaner

 

EZ Off....

 

If it's catalyzed clear it will be okay. I've done it two or three times with no problem. Park in the shade.....squirt a little on the enamel......give it a few minutes to work......wipe it off with a soft rag. Sometimes it doesn't all come off, and you have to do it again.

I use this method when someone wants something temporary, or too personal when the car is to be sold.

 

I have a trucker that brings his tractors by to remove signs and pinstripes sometimes. The safest way I've found to remove them
is to wet sand with 1000 grit on a rubber sanding block that I cut
in two pieces 1/3 and 2/3. the narrower blocks help keep your sand paper on the lettering and off the surrounding areas. When you get the lettering off you can color sand the entire areas with 1500 or 2000 to even up the texture and then Buff. I've done about 5 tractors so far and all came out good. I'd be afraid oven cleaner could soften or wrinkle the clearcoat. JMO Good luck

 

EZ OFF used in body shops years ago to remove lettering on trade ins .

 

Oven cleaner will work. I've used it before to remove pin striping. Just make sure you don't leave it on too long.

 

Lacquer thinner & a soft cloth?

We used to use it on pin stripes at the shop...only problem was sometimes it left a "shadow" depending on how long the paint had been on there...you could still see where the stripes were at one time.

 

We use Easy Off all the time at our dealership. It works very well for removing pinstriping and sign paint. Does not matter if the base paint job is new or old. Spray in on liberally. Let sit for 5 minutes and remove. You will be able to see the sign paint lift like aircraft stripper does to regular paint. Might take a couple times but it works like a charm. The only thing you might see is the shadow from the removed pinstrip or image that was painted over the vehicles paint job. Alot of times the sign paint will actually stain the finish of your original paint job. Good luck. thesneakytiki

 

A few weeks back a striper told me about using Easy-Off to remove striping.

He recomended using the plain Easy-Off and to stay away from the lemonized stuff.

 

Like Hotrodpaint said, if its catalized clear, you should be OK no matter what you use. Just don't let it set on there too long. I'd run a buff over it when your done too.

EDIT: Don't use aircraft stripper!

 

Thanks a lot guys!!!!!!!!!

I thought the oven cleaner thing was BS......obviously by the replies...not....

 

Oh...forgot to ask..

do you spray the oven cleaner on direct....or apply with a cloth to the lettering??

I figured oven cleaner would eat off enamel paint ...

damaging the clear was my big concern....

 

Use the YELLOW can of Easy-Off and spray it directly on the 1-Shot. Let it sit for no more then 4 minutes and then wipe it off. It the paint it thick, old or both, it may take several applications. Also, work in small areas so as to maintain the 4 minute limit.

I can't count how many times I've done this successfully. Pay attention to your overspray too! I didn't one time and it ate up a license plate's reflectivity. Kinda cool though...

Vance

 

I agree with the EZ-Off. I have used it with good results. However, I would stay away from cheaper store brands or "heavy duty" types. I had a bad experience with a store brand name once and almost ruined the door of the truck. The first application went fine but the second one was a little more aggressive.

 

ya eazy off works good done it before also jus moght need a lil buffin after words

 

Ez Off works great. Sometimes it will turn white cars a little yellow. The yellow will wash off but takes awhile.

 

Just did a big stripe removal a few days ago with the E-Z Off. Have been using it for years and there IS a certain criteria you need to follow. First, DO Not do it in the sun. I have found the best way to control overspray is to spray it away from the vehicle on a clean dry rag and dab it on the stripping. Let it stand not more that 4 minutes, whereas you then take another dry rag and wipe (not rub) off the bulk of the cleaner and the softened one shot. Followed with a bucket of cold water and a soaked cloth and wipe off all wet residue. This is the only thing that stops the acidic action in the cleaner. You may have to do it 3-4 times but it will eventually all come off, while leaving no tell-tale marks or dull spots of the clearcoat....UNLESS.. you rub it, which is a no, no as it will most definitely scratch the finish. One more note, be sure to continually shake your can of cleaner before using it each time. There you have it. I don't give a damn what anyone says, NEVER use lacquer thinner on the surface of a paint job unless you want to really screw it up. And oh, by the way this last job I did was on a 2006 Chrysler with black pearl finish.

 

I've got an old racecar with laquer paint. Will it work on One-Shot there?

 

Interesting thread. I have similar problem on an old motorcycle that was pinstriped in the late 60's or thereabouts. The factory paint has no clear coat and is baked enamel. I am assuming this was done with one shot. It's gotta go so considering the methods above.

Most above are talking about one-shot over clear coat, besides the caveat of trying these methods somewhere small and out of sight first, any concerns about EZ Off or other methods attacking the factory enamel?

 

If it's any of the new orange or red, I wouldn't be suprised if you could lick your finger and wipe it right off! It sure covers like watercolor!
Del

 

I use a couple of different methods when talked into removing striping and/or lettering.I don't like doing it only because you can never be certain what the original base consists of.

If the designs are fairly small I usually use a soft rag soaked in a mixture of wax and grease remover and a product called,"Heavy Oxidation Remover";a marine product used mainly for restoring fibreglass gel coatings.I rub gently at an angle across the lines and change the surface frequently to prevent residue from scratching the surfaces.This method will usually remove small striping designs and small lettering.

I usually don't tackle larger removals as the surface can be easily damaged.I don't like using Easy-Off especially on white or light colored surfaces as it will stain them.Red is nearly impossible to remove from a white surface without turning it pink.

Here is one where the owner wanted only a portion of the lettering removed and was willing to chance the paint being damaged.The lettering was not 1-Shot but rather something that had been masked and sprayed.I experimented a bit and finally settled on using a mix of acetone,3M Adhesive Remover,and white polishing compound.Working VERY slowly doing small areas I was able to successfully remove the lettering with no staining and only a marginal amount of scratching(my fault due to not changing the cleaning surface enough)which was covered by the new lettering.

A word of caution:ALWAYS try any solvent on a small area that isn't readily visible before proceeding to test the reaction.Leave it on for the amount of time it will be on the surface and neutralize with water afterward.

 

Looks nice Ray!