Whats the easiest way to lower a 1966 Imperial LeBaron? I do not have much money to throw at a air ride for now. I just want to hear some ideas...see what I can do.
Not sure how that suspension is set up but usually lowering blocks in the rear and cut coils in the front is the easiest.
No, no, no. crank down the torsion bars and de-arch the springs. lowering blocks are cheap and easy, ruin the springs (leaverage, says I). You can crank down the bars lower than you'd probably like to drive it, if that's possible. Just loosen the two 3/4" bolts at the bottom of each of the lower control arms; and count the turns and where you clock the wrench so they move the same ammount. Cut coils! Cooter's BUSTED! Must be a Chevy guy!
All mid-60's Chryslers used torsion bars (not coils) as the front springs. There's a large bolt that sets the tension or ride height. Un-screw that bolt and the front end goes down (the bolt should be on the lower control arms). Just about the simplest cars to lower on the planet.
Imperials torsion bar bolts are where the torsion bars meet the crossmember under the car(under the front seat). Loosen those bolts and it will lower it as much as you want, but it's like anything else, the lower it is, the ****tier it will ride. Also be careful, I broke a couple of them off on a 66 Imperial once, it ****ed.
Well I dont want to lower it a lot, just enough to give it a good stance. Whats the lowest you would suggest? Also, how did you fix the broken ones and how low were you? Any pictures?
first put on the front tires you want to use a little taller is ok as it will fill the wheel well skinny like 225 -70 15 then lower by use of the torsion bars as mentioned get the look you want .. then raise it because it willl be too low for speed bumps and off camber driveways... i know go ahead drive it any way you'll see as for the rear lowering blocks are the best cheap remember that you may need tp cut or remove your bumpstops above the axle i have used air shocks (shorter than the ones called for it)to maintain the hight and its ez to throw someting in the trunk to see where you want it to sit ...i carried two spares around filled with water (tractor supply for fill valves)to see if i liked botomoing out all the time ..(gas tank only half full). find a comfort zone and remember most people are standing next to it will think its low few lay on the ground to view it i ran G60 15s in front L6015in the rear and they never rubbed that would be 235 60 and 245/55 60
Well I do not want it to be so low, its un-driveable. I just want to give it a better stance. If anyone has pictures of Imperials like that I would really appreciate seeing them.
Not an imperial, but cranked down the bars, 2 inch blocks in the rear. Drove it all over hell, no blems.-MIKE
Ok...other then fat women, letting air out, etc....what kind of blocks would you guys suggest and where might I get some good ones? Sorry for all the questions, but I am here to learn and want to do it the right way...
Gee, I figured this was going to be a train wreck, but it took until #20 for the air... Lowering blocks can be found from a number of places, but you will also need longer u-bolts in most cases. I'd suggest phone or internet searches for price and availability, and to feel out the sellers. If they know what sizes you need, good. If they need a bunch of info from you, get it and have it ready for the next call. BTW, as mentioned, the torsion bars can break. Please don't just reach under the car and crank down the bolts. A jack and jack stands are required....you will need them to do the back anyway. On the rear, do one side at a time. An air impact will be your friend, and soak/clean all fasteners for a couple days before starting.
Don't they sell these kits at the local auto supply? If not you can just get some blocks of steel in the right dimensions an new longer U-bolts.
Well I saw some out of aluminium, but I dont know if those would be good for the heavy Imperial. When I work on cars I am always safe, sometimes go overboard I think, work for aviation industry as a Health and Safety guy.
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