i have a 1949 8ba 276ci flathead (4inch crank and 3 5/16 bore)with eldelbrock alu heads(#1115) running felpro (#1055 #1056)big bore copper sandwitch gaskets with vht copper spray with a compression ratio of bout 11:1 maybe higher if leaks stop i keep getting water in the oil . need help do i need to torch the heads down more with that compression also the torch sequence that eldelbrock send with them seem to me to be the worry sequence they seem to be the torch sequence for ealier 24 studs also been told that i need to run long head bolts? block was cracked tested and came back ok help please
Have you tried pressure testing it cold (after you get the heads on, before you fire it) to make sure you are getting a good seal to begin with? Have you already checked for casting porosity in the heads and block? The deck surfaces on the block and heads are true (flat & smooth)? I'm no expert, but that's where I'd start (11:1 on a flatty, dayyuummm).
I would think that 11 to 1 on a flathead Ford would lift the head because I have never seen one run more than 9 to 1, most are in the 8 to 1 bracket. I would think that the only gasket that might hold would be a solid copper gasket. "O" ringing would do it but you would have to have a wizard on a cc mill do it because the sealing area is not round. Roy
I think the block is not flat, Or the heads aren't.. And I think someone sold you a bill of goods when they told you 11.1 compression,, Maybe more like 9.1...... JMO..
First off what are you using for the final torque value? Secondly the torque sequence is the same on all 24 stud flatties. Thirdly when you first install torque to 35 then 45 then 55#'s in sequence. Fill with water, start motor and bring up to operating temperature. Shut down an allow to cool. Then re-torque again in sequence to 55#'s. Repeat this process at least one more time.
Are you using studs or bolts now? We had leaking water problems with studs, switched to bolts and it seems to have cured it. How did you figure your compression ratio?
thanks guys the block and heads are true and smooth and flat with the retorque do you need to back them off a bit or just torque them up straight away from where they are for intail torque??? was told to work out compression ratio its psi from the test divided by the atomphereic pressure so i had 160psi on the test atomphereic pressure is 14.5 therefore 160/14.5 which is 11:1
thanks guys the block and heads are true and smooth and flat with the retorque do you need to back them off a bit or just torque them up straight away from where they are for intail torque??? was told to work out compression ratio its psi from the test divided by the atomphereic pressure so i had 160psi on the test atomphereic pressure is 14.5 therefore 160/14.5 which is 11:1
Cranking pressure has nothing to do with compression ratio. A lot of factors go into it such as overlap on cam which bleeds off cranking pressure. You should be 180 or 200 with 11 to 1 unless you have a cam that is the wildest thing ground. I would venture at 160 you are nearer 9 to 1. You need to know what the cc's of the combustion chamber is and then how much of the piston fills it to get a truer idea of compression ratio. I would do as Rand man says go to head bolts not studs and fire it up let it get to operating temp then cool down and retorque heads to specs. Don't loosen the bolts just retorque to specs in the normal rotation of the torque sequence. Also coat the gasket with Copper Coat before installing.Roy
problem solved a new set of gaskets and glued them down and we now have no water in the oil. we did a compresion test and the results were 175psi @ 2500- 2800rpm we will see how the motor go's next weekend on the track thanks everyone for there help
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