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ball joint removal

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by joeks, Jun 28, 2008.

  1. joeks
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 145

    joeks
    Member

    what is the best way to remove the original the ball joints while the control arms are still on the car and you cant get a drill to them?
     
  2. Dirty2
    Joined: Jun 13, 2004
    Posts: 8,902

    Dirty2
    Member

    What kind of car or truck ?
     
  3. HOT ROD DAVE
    Joined: Jan 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,467

    HOT ROD DAVE
    Member

    old chrysler had screw in style

    most of your vehicles though

    except for your foreign that are bolt in

    if you get a gm that h*** rivets DO NOT heat the rivets, just use a hammer and chissel or air hammer with a chissel
     
  4. Gotgas
    Joined: Jul 22, 2004
    Posts: 7,251

    Gotgas
    Member
    from DFW USA

    Several Fords I've done were press-fit with an e-clip.
     
  5. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,499

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    On alot of the ball joints you'll have to drill the holes to 5/15 to bolt the new joints in. You can grind the tops of the rivets then knock them out with a punch.
     
  6. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    I ***ume you have the riveted style since you mentioned a drill. Either that or you really shouldnt be messing with suspension... :) Grinding the heads off is the best way, because its faster and theres no way you will ever find the absolute center to drill the rivet. Then either punch them through or wack the balljoint itself a few times. I have also used an air chisel to chisel the heads off. Blows through them in record time.
     
  7. 37FABRICATION
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 672

    37FABRICATION
    Member

    Also find out if the rivets are tapered so you're not trying to punch them out the wrong way.
     
  8. HOT ROD DAVE
    Joined: Jan 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,467

    HOT ROD DAVE
    Member

    these must be the new metric drills from china


    he he he
     
  9. joeks
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 145

    joeks
    Member

    thanks guys. its a 63 mercury, ive ground them off before but was wondering if an air chisel would be faster. should have just said that in the original post but i was in a hurry. so is an air chisel hands down faster than grinding them? i just wanted to get it straight before i spend the $ on an air hammer
     
  10. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,988

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    An air chisel works nicely to get them out but isn't necessary unless you are looking for an excuse to buy one. Sometimes an air chisel in the wrong hands will tear up more than it fixes

    The air chisel does make it a bit faster and would be desirable if you were doing it for a living though.
    If you have a small grinder I'd just grind the heads off the rivets and then use a bfh and a good sized chisel to break the ball joint loose from the A frame. Then you can usually use a hammer and punch to knock the rivets out. Most of the time I used to hit them with the hammer to knock them down and a bit loose and then use the punch to knock them out. Normally you shouldn't have to drill the holes out to a larger size. the exception would be if the instructions told you to.
    I did front end work in Waco about 35 years ago at the Firestone downtown store and Frank Weaver.
     
  11. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    I thought his drill was able to turn things into stainless!
     

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