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Impala rear 1/4 update..

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by The Hank, Jun 30, 2008.

  1. The Hank
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 779

    The Hank
    Member
    from CO

    Hey guys so i decided to tackle the rear of the impala , I'M going to post some pics just so if anyone see's something i'm doing wrong now is a good time to address it.

    Thanks.

    Ohh I'M using a lincoln 110 V wire feed welder w/o gas , thats all i have atm. I cut allong the wheel well right where it turns back into the car cutting the inner fender and outer fender at the same time cause when i got done drilling the spot welds there was not alot left. So i cut aprox 1" strip from the old panel and used it to replace the inner fenders bottom lip. If you can understand that. I over lapped the two panels and cut along the top leaving a gap the size of the blade thickness for expantion , It also helps to stick a tiny screw driver in the gap to work the panels flush before tacking. Then peeled the remaining piece off as I go.The car is set on jack stands to keep the car fron any flexing. I'M using all the tips I recieved in another thread about this. If you notice any flaws feel free to speek up. The tape on the top was to hold it in place so i could adjust it the hold it firm with self drilling / tapping screws.

    Thanks!

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  2. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,041

    chaddilac
    Member

    Looks like you're nearly there!

    I'm no expert, but I've see people cut quarters on the body lines. But looks like you did a pretty good job!
     
  3. Ranunculous
    Joined: Nov 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,465

    Ranunculous
    Member

    Atta boy!
    Save that 65!
    They're a sweet ride! Good luck!
     
  4. The Hank
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 779

    The Hank
    Member
    from CO

    When I get done for all my efforts I get to do the other side!
     
  5. toddc
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 976

    toddc
    Member

    Cover that glass before you weld anymore.:eek::eek::eek:
    Weld splatter in glass sucks. Don't ask how I know.:eek:
     
  6. punkabilly1306
    Joined: Aug 22, 2005
    Posts: 2,655

    punkabilly1306
    Member
    from ohio


    yeah it does suck lol
     
  7. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey Hank,

    Looks good! Welding sheetmetal with a flux core rig is tough, at best.
    Try for a good gap at the B post/Striker, where the quarter meets it,
    before you make any tacks.
    I think you mentioned you had damage above the body/character
    line, and that that was the reason for the cut above it, no? Looks
    like that in the photos.

    Swankey Devils C.C.

    "Meanwhile Back aboard The Tainted Pork"
     
  8. Flop
    Joined: Jun 8, 2006
    Posts: 3,886

    Flop
    Member

    yes cover the glass !! ask me how i know too.espically when ya dont expect it then ya wonder why your glass is rusting!!!!
     
  9. hotrod-Linkin
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 3,382

    hotrod-Linkin
    Member

    keep a fire bottle close...that extension cord is a little overloaded....looking good
     
  10. The Hank
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 779

    The Hank
    Member
    from CO

    In another thread I started about this someone had suggested I cut about 3" below the top body line the way I have it now more or less , I don't know the logic behind it maybe to make hammering and dolly work more easy.

    Glass will get a cover before I go on thanks for that tip!

    The gap I'M using at the moment is the thickness of the sawzall curf 1/16" maybe less. Hope thats enough.
    thanks for the help guys .. I should finnish the welding on that side tomorrow unless I run into any snags. I will Update tomorrow.
    Thanks again. I have never done this before so i'm fully relying on all yall's help.

    The cord ya see there is just running the drill / gringer / sawzall . I have a 10 G 50' on the welder. But yes I have one in my tool box handy always. Thanks.
     
  11. Rusty Kustoms
    Joined: Feb 5, 2006
    Posts: 238

    Rusty Kustoms
    Member

    looks great, just make sure your body lines line up and go slow with the welder, just one problem I see is that you should grind a little more paint off around the weld area, the third pictures shows some nasty scorching, you don't need to worry about the gap sheet metal is very easy to get penetration and a gap is not necessary, but the way you did the fit with the tape and screws is the same way I do it, it leaves a gap but it is much easier to get a good fit. Keep up the good work!!
     
  12. The Hank
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 779

    The Hank
    Member
    from CO

    thanks !

    Ok todays update, welded the top seam and most everything else. I can feel a few high and low spots but i think i can hammer a few out to get it close. I did not think i would get it good enough to not use a little filler. What i did was pretty much about 1000 spot welds across the top seam rather then try to pull a bead i was worried about the heat . Then i took the grinder to it , looked for pin holes and spots i had missed and started filling in. then a little more grinding. I'M so stoked cause i was worried i was going to F up my car before starting but i just took all the advice i had got before and followed it to the letter. I think when all is said and done on this side it will not take much filler . 1/16 inch here and there at most by how it feels.

    Abcent
    is a pic of all my spot welds [ ohh the shame ] i'm a rookie what can i say.

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  13. The Hank
    Joined: Mar 18, 2008
    Posts: 779

    The Hank
    Member
    from CO

    Day 3 . all done and ready to block sand then paint. I'M pretty excited how well it came out , now off to do the other side. I filled the seam with filler then sanded it down , found a few high spots so I tapped them in just a touch then sanded again . I have it really close I know i need to add filler in one spot by the door. It looked like rain and i didnt want the bare metal sitting out side so i hit it with a rattle can untill I get the other side done , then the car will be almost ready for paint. I need to repair one small spot on the passenger front fender , a very small rust hole. I'M amazed how rust free that car is for 43 years old. the car will be painter the color it is now. I will update more tomorrow. Thanks for all the help guys!


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  14. 62rambler
    Joined: Feb 27, 2008
    Posts: 13

    62rambler
    Member
    from indiana

    Might be a good idea to remove the back seat and stuff from trunk. That old horsehair goes up like a match when it gets warm. Nearly burnt a 68 camaro to the ground welding on the quarters..LOL

    Keep up the good work!! Looking good.
     

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