quick like bunnies!!! olds 324 question!!!

ok im moving my olds 324 to the house tonight and it doesnt have a manifold on it so i will have to some how fasten the chain to the heads. who knows what size and thread the bolts are that screw into the heads?!!! i got only about an hour or so to figure it out!!

 

3/8 16

 

Don't you have an old toolbox full of nuts and bolts? "the house" is not the answer you usually hear when someone says "what are you going to put that in?" what are you going to put it in?

 

its goin in to my 29 A tudor. i dont really have pics of it now.. only got some of it 25 years ago when my dad started it. i got it home alright it took a **** ton of work and i have to thank my friends for pullin through like champs. one of the bolts broke and the motor dropped like a foot and a half to the ground.

 

Your welcome Junior!

 

that's why you should only buy American made blots

 

George, I am unsure what a blot is let alone an American made one. How would you know what to look for when comparing to a Chinese blot?
Trust all is well, the collection of 56 Olds stuff from you is slowly coming together.
Russell

 

ok new question.. i need some info on this motor.. i got the casting # and some of the other designations off of it.. but am having **** luck finding anything on here or the web so lets see if anyone can do better...

block casting # 561747

above that was 4S GM

then on the opposite side was C53

so do you best guys, this is starting to hurt my head..

 

do the heads also have the number 10 at the center exhaust port?

 

personally, I use grade 8 blots.

the american made blots smell like cheesburgers, the chinese made blots smell of Kim Chee and rice.

You gotta have a nose for blots.

good luck on the rocket!

 

i have 2 sets of heads one pair is an 8 the other i think had a 6 on it

 

gotta head off to school dammit.. hopefully i can have this worked out today

 

ok back to it.. anybody?? anybody at all? come on where the olds guys at????

 

old cars and despiration don't always mix

you said in another thread that you did a search here,

did you see this thread? and more importantly, did you read it?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47584

 

Once more
Look at the top edge of the block , third cyl back ,number 5--pad next to bottom of the head.

49-303-8A1001 TO 8A193864 H PREFIX =HYDRA MATIC
50 303-8A194001 TO 8A568689 H PREFIX = HYDRA MATIC
51 303-8C1001 TO 8C287312 B PREFIX = STICK TRANS
52 303-8R1001 TO 8R214478
53 303-R215001 TO R549482
54 324-V1001 TO V355083
55 324- V400001 TO V983275
56 324-A001001 TO A385513

 

i checked the block by the cylinder couldnt find those numbers

 

and paul thanks for that thread, when i searched i didnt see that one.. appologies for the more than one thread deal. i decided after the other one i would just keep it all in the one i started..

 

just came back in from the shed, the heads that came off the engine are burried beneath the #8 heads but i could see a casting # in the area that would be under the rocker covers and it was 56155... i dont know if that helps but i thought i would try, i couldnt find anything when i searched it..

 

bumpity bump, still no one with info on the motor??? like i said, the numbers on the block above the 3rd cylinder arent there.. so those do me no good.

 

Ohh I gotta disagree here. You should use grade 5 blots as they they will bend where as a grade 8 blot will break off.......


sorry had to say it

 

Location of the serial number is left (drivers) side of the block betwwen and below the last 2 plugs. The pictured engine is a '50 block with '55 heads.

 

aahhhhh! i found the numbers! it was just dark and grimey so they were a lil hidden, but the numbers i found were R299308 so i have to ***ume its a '53 303. huge thanks to don_wow!

tonight i put the rocker shaft, arms and stands all back on the heads, which leads me to my next question.. in the tech thread.. there is mention of utilizing the stock olds stands and cadillac rocker shafts along with stude arms.. is there any benefit to using the cad arms over just leaving the complete stock olds set up on? how available or easy to come by are those particular stude rocker arms? and the last question for now will be, is there any reworking that will have to be done to the #8 heads to possibly make them more beneficial or horsepower yielding for the 303?

now i shall insert a few pics of my new toy..

 

ok question time.. im no mechanic and this is the first motor im working with... with the heads removed.. if you can feel the lil lip at the tops of the cylinders, would it be wise to just have the cylinders honed? also, would honing the cylinders require larger pistons to compensate?

 

Regarding that ridge, if you have it honed, make sure that the shop knows that the Olds block is very high nickle content. If the machinist is under 60 years old, be wary.

 

cool, yea i had read that the Olds blocks are very hard and when honing or boring them to warn the machinist to take it slow and easy. but will there be a need to increase piston size? or will i only need to do that if i have it bored over?

 

No, you do not need to replace the pistons when you hone the block. Use a ridge reamer to cut the top ridge,then hone ----if needed the piston to cylinder wall clearance can be as much as ten thousands. Even with stock cast pistons quality rings will work and seal with this much clearance. Never seen a motor sluggesh with too much as opposed to being to tight on wall clearance. Hone it , check taper , the new rings will seal if taper is within six thousands. On the other hand if its bored you can get the wall dead nuts on as they should be.

 

The whole purpose of the Cadillac shaft/Studebaker rocker arm excersize is to have an adjustable valvetrain. The Olds rocker stands would have to be reamed out for the larger rocker shafts, and you'd have to improvise on the pushrods. On the upside, Studebaker used the same rockers on both V8s and OHV sixes, so they're still out there.

 

thanks don_wow! now, the other question i have is on the heads, in the tech thread it says to use 63 cad rocker shafts, wouldnt they be the same as a 365 rocker shaft? and would you recomend decking the heads? if so what amount?

 

OK,, those # 8 heads are going to clamp on around an 8.5 compression on the 303 block ---this is a close ballpark figure, have to cc total volume to know perzackly where your at .BUT if you want to up the compression they can be milled up to .090 max. If you go .080 ,,ratio will fall at around 10.0 to 1 .. ..stock cc''s come in at 88 or close , an .080 cut will lose 14 cc''s ---=74 cc gets you at 10.0 to 1 . Mill .040 off and results are around 9.4 compression. Now you can run on 87 gas at 9.5 with an olds , but at 10 you will have to up the anti to a little richer juice. Also milling will require a shorter pushrod and checking of valve to piston clearance. Change one thing and the fun begains with everthing else. Been there ,done that---cad shafts, stude rockers---forgetabou*** yeah can be done , but the geometry is off a little plus the h***le of rounding up the parts , taking the chance of screwing up the rocker stands ,kicking the dog when its not his doing, ect .Find a good set for an olds or step up and call goatroper if your set on adjustables.

 

i know its been for ever and a day since i've done anything on this thread but.. i recently tore down the 303 and got everything ready for machining, but thanks to notrod on here i came across my dream induction and couldn't p*** it up! its an offy 6x2 with 94 carbs.



i had to rush over to my parents to put my lil girl down for a nap so i could set the heads and intake on!