Well, I did a search and couldn't find any info here. Basically I want to keep the MC under the cab and the stock pedal ***embly but I obviously need a dual reservoir unit. Does anyone have any ideas where I can find one? Aftermarket, or maybe a stock unit from another application? Thanks in advance...
I've got a '49 gmc and want to do the same, so if you get your answer elsewhere, please post it here. Thanks, Sneeky Pete
Any disc/drum unit should work. The trick is adapting the new MC to the existing bracket. My brother is swaping out his single on a '57 chevy truck. He bought a purpose built bracket for his, so they are out there. Try the truck restoration guys. Get a proportional valve too.
I bought mine from cl***ic performance products. It was just the bracket kit for $100. I used the original pedal set up, and a junkyard master cyl/booster/prop valve from an '84 mustang. I also used wilwood residual presure valves, though they didn't seem to help much. The pedal is soft, but it seems to stop good. Mine is a big blocked '56 ford pickup w/solid axle w/discs, but I imagine a chevy would be set up pretty much the same.
Thanks guys. In my search this morning after posting this question I was given these links by a guy over at the www.67-72chevytrucks.com forum which covers '47 through '98 Chevy trucks. http://www.cl***icperform.com/Store/1947_59_Trucks/CPUMMKA.htm http://www.brotherstrucks.com/products.asp?dept=407
www.nolimit.net No Limit engineering specializes in the 53-56 ford pick-up also 55- 59 chevy pick-ups they have what you want
I put one from CPP in a customers truck recently. Was decent. But not a straight bolt in. Had to redo the pushrod and make a spacer for the pedal.
Now that would kinda ****....I want the one that is going to be the most straightforward. Has anyone here used one of the ones mentioned without any hitches? Or MINIMAL fabrication?
A remote? I'm not too sure I like the idea of losing brakes if my battery goes dead or my wiring shorts out... I'll stick with juice.
I have installed two of the one from no-limit and all I had to do was remove existing bracket and drill two holes or was it one it was so long ago but I remember it was simple one was done with body fenders on
Gerry, thanks for the input...it's always nice to hear from someone who has real-world experience with a certain product. I'll check out No-Limit... BTW: the solution on stovebolt to upgrading disc brakes must be an OLD one...before kits were made, because it retrofits parts from a newer non-american car and it sounds pretty complicated.
My 56 F100 has an 8" unit under the floor (it may be a MPB unit) that hooks up to the stock pedal. While it stops fine, there isn't a hole in the floor to access the dual master cylinder, so one has to be made. It's long enough so that it may be under the seat area. Check the diameter of the booster to ensure it will fit without hitting the floor and that you can get the cap off easily.
eBay seems to be the cheapest place to get dual MC/power brakes that are made for the truck. They run around $200, depending who is selling them and when. Only reason I held off on buying one is I didn't know which brake setup it was made for or what I'll be using yet.
I've got an ABS master with a little booster on the frame rail of my wife's '55 Studebaker half-ton. Making the bracket to mount it took like 2-3 hours. It's got a remote reservoir on the firewall. Still running stock drum brakes, though. Was going to run discs up front, but my wife wanted to keep the original wheels and hubcaps, so that put an end to that. Stops good, though.
I bought my stuff for my F100 from ECI. They know their stuff. The bracket they sell is pretty nice, very stout and simple. Buy the master from them, too. It's just as cheap as you'll find one locally and I found that the one they supply has the bigger resevoir for the disc side while the one from NAPA has two small ones...
The CCP kit works fine... Most 'fab' work is drilling bracket holes. if you are keeping stock clutch pedal, you will need the clutch kit also... buy it when you order... for automatic and using stock pedals, there is a shaft kit that eliminates the clutch pedal yes, MC is under the floor, further back than original single MC... only time access is an 'issue' is bleeding when refilling. Kit contains a plastic bottle with a ****** to squirt fluid to refill. checking fluid level is not that bad... use a mirror or your finger... and how often is this 'required' a remote res. willl take care of this issue, or fab an access in the floor you will need residual valves to add also... and fab brake lines to connect.
OK guys...I found some good info just recently. The dual master cylinder that CPP and Brothers are both selling for $100+ is actually an early 70's Corvette MC. The PN for the manual version is Raybestos #36367 and can be had at most any parts store for $55...quite a savings. I know the bracket, bolts, extended pushrod, etc... need to be bought as a kit from one of these guys, but why not save yourself a few $$ if you can? Hope this info helps someone...
The Corvette master cylinder mentioned above is for 4 wheel disk brakes which in my understanding are made to maintain a certain amount of pressure to keep the pads close to the rotors. If used where the rear brakes are drums, it might cause some drag. Another option is a master cylinder from a Chevy pickup with disk brakes on front and drums on year. Ol Blue
i have a 56 f-100 and i used a 1969 mustang dual mc. no proportioning valves or risidual valves the mc had one in it. no power also used silicon brake fluid. in 5 years have never had any problems
The tech I talked to at Brothers gave me the skinny on the early Corvette MC. Basically in order to use it with rear drums I was told that you need to install an inline proportioning valve...
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