I'm planning on painting some parts on my '67 cuda with either Hammerite or Rustoleum's Hammertone paint - never used either one of them. I'd rather not use spray cans cause somehow the nozzles always get screwy. I have a cheap Harbor Freight paint gun and I'd like to buy a quart of paint. * Which is better...Hammerite or Rustoleum Hammertone? * Do I need to thin the paint in order to spray it? If so, with what? * Any tips when spraying? Mind you...I've never painted before using a gun. * Anybody have any pics? Thanks in advance!
Hammerite is by far the toughest paint I've ever used. BUT, it is almost impossible to prevent runs on vertical surfaces. I have painted table saws, jointers, work tables and lots of things with it, but use a small foam roller and turn the work so that everything is horizonal until it partially sets. It does flow out well, brush or roller marks just disappear. Tried spraying, doesn't like to be thinned enough to spray and still cover and just runs like crazy. The hammertone stuff is just like normal paint as far as spray goes, but not nearly as tough as Hammerite.
I built a home brewing tower a while back and painted it with the rattle can stuff. After allowing plenty of time to cure before use it has held up very well to abuse.
Are you trying to get a hammertone finish or a wrinkle finish? Hammertone looks like old 1960s toolboxes, with a lumpy, but almost glossy surface that looks like it's been beat to shape with about a million blows from a ball peen hammer, usually a grey or silver or some color. Wrinkle finish seems like it might work out better if you want a no-glare tough surface on something like dashboard parts. Wrinkle finish out of a spray can sometimes comes out really nice. I painted the whole metal dashboard on an MG a long time ago with spray can black wrinkle finish and it came out really nice. I painted a big sandblasting cabinet I made with Hammerite out of a quart can, and it came out looking like just a ****py sloppy silver spray paint paint job. The hammertone effect never really happened and the "hammer marks" were too small so it looked more like a bad paint job. Definitely try it out on some piece of junk before you paint the real thing so you can see what it will really look like.
I've used the RustOleum Hammered spray bomb cans a few times and had zero problems, it's good stuff. Pick up a can and test it out before you go through all the trouble of painting it with a gun.
I've painted a lot with the Hammerite out of the spray can and it seemed to stay "soft" for a long time, but once it finally cures it's pretty damn durable.
I've used the Rustoleum Hammertone in the spray can a bunch. Looks great after about 3 or 4 thin coats. Never had any trouble with the nozzels.
Unlike regular spray paint, to get the right hammered effect it requires about 3 good wet coats sprayed pretty quickly on top of the other. It's a lot easier if the surface is lying flat. This paint is pretty runny for a few minutes until it starts shrinking and making the hammered effect. On uneven or upright surfaces its a lot harder to get an even hammered effect, because this tendency to run for a few minutes, before it starts shrinking. If you can lift the piece, you can rotate it while it's drying those first few minutes, but it isn't easy to prevent swirls and maybe even runs. If you just spray light coats and wait too long in between, the hammered effect doesn't look as even and bold because the paint can't pull together or shrink as much as with more liquid wet build. I would get more paint than you think you need and first experiment and get a feel for it. Paint in a quart can or larger will have less thinner mixed in and may be easier to apply. In the end almost everything is possible, if you put your mind to it and figure out a way.
I have restored a couple of old late 30's /early 40's chevrolet heaters and used the rustoleum hammertone spray cans. I got about 200 bucks each for them so I would say that is a good testimonial for the spray bomb rustoleum. definitly use at least 2 coats. I have found it likes to go on wet.. never had a problem with runs.
I'm planning to paint some armrests and portions of the center console and dashboard. Hammered finishes always caught my eye. They look sturdy and industrial looking. Several hours after posting my question, I went to Walmart and picked up a spray can of Rustoleum Hammertone. As I anticipated all along, the nozzle got screwy and started spitting paint instead of spraying properly. Just finished ordering online a quart of Hammerite which I ***ume is a little better than Rustoleum. Also, I heard that hammered finishes are best obtained by spraying from quarts instead of from spray cans since the manufacturer has to add increased amounts of thinner so that the paint is properly atomized. This increased amount of thinner mutes the hammered finish and that's something I'm trying to avoid. I'll be using either a conventional detail gun or one of my HVLP guns. Wish me luck!
I've used both kinds of the Rustoleum paint-- spray bomb and the quart can. In my experience, the quart can stuff seems tougher, but the spray bomb kind is pretty good. The quart can stuff seems to have a bit more obvious texture to it when it dries. Worked pretty good shooting it using no thinner/reducer, and going through a primer nozzle on my gravity-feed gun. The best results I've gotten from the rattle cans is to wipe down the surface with laquer thinner or wax & grease remover. The fog on a light, tacky coat of paint, followed by several heavy coats wet-on-wet. I've painted nearly all my shop fixtures like this, and I'm really surprised by the amount of abuse the paint has taken. This desk was what I painted with the quart can/spray gun, and it has had plenty opportunity for scratching the paint, but has held up excellent.
Just one thing to consider if you're going to spray the hammertone with your spray gun . The reason the paint has the hammer finish to it is there is silicone added to the paint that basically makes a bunch of fisheyes to get the texture. You may be contaminating your gun with silicone and you could possibly get fisheyes in the next paint job you do.Just a thought.
I thought of the same thing. Since I have several paint guns, I'll set one aside and use it solely to spray Hammerite.
i am a believer in rustoleum.have used the hammertone several times with good results.and its been said already coat wet on wet ,you'll get an awesome finish.have painted lots of parts on my 49 with rust oleum.my technique for my ch***is and other componets is to brush on an area then go back and fog on a wet coat of the same paint in a spray bomb it helps to even the brush marks. and given time to cure is very durable.did my shocks with spraybombs also.the upper parts were a brushed aluminum and the bottoms are black wrinkle.they look fantastic. much better than the factory white they started out.............................dave
I've used hammertone on ch***is stuff and framework,stuff is very durable and looks darn good once its set. the spray bombs arent a big deal anymore .
I use hammerrite and after allowing the proper drying time it is tough as nails. I use the spray bombs but just bought a couple of quarts to try sprayig. Fourdy
Anybody know where to buy the Rustoleum hammertone? The local Home depot doesn't have the color I want, and I'm leery of having them special order it. Eastwood used to sell it, but a search of their website didn't turn up anything. thanks!
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