Patchin' Pinholes with POR-15

POR15 will definately stop the rust. It won't fill in the holes. The sprayon bed liner will fill in holes, but won't stop the rust. In fact, the bedliner companies mention that if the paint on the truck bed isn't new that it could rust under the spray on. They make no guarantees unless you put it on a fresh factory-painted surface. I've got POR and Rhino Lining on my studebaker. Had a rust hole in one corner of the bed deck, and several holes drilled for various tie-downs. All were filled in by the Rhino, and nothing else. You couldn't find them now.

 

POR 15 works better when you get there kit, clean it up as good as you can. I used it in a 47 Buick floor one side did better then the other, it's in the prep.

The POR filler is made for the pin holes. A guy up here used the bedliner material but he cut it down and it went on smoother

 

It doesn't even meet the minimum definition for quarter assing it.

 

Rather than dripping POR through holes, use one of the epoxy metal fillers then cover it with POR. I've done holes as large as 1/2" this way (with the help of washers) and you can't tell there was even a hole there. I'm a huge fan of these fillers for smoothing rough metal, filling weld gaps, etc.

Also as a note as some misinformation is flowing...

POR is NOT a rust converter, but an ecapsulator. The rust will continue to grow under the POR-15 though much much more slowly due to lack of air.

 

This is The One and Only, Hokey Ass Message Board.

 

Got a friend who went the fiberglass mat/por 15 route-incredibly strong. But there are a lot of guys who will scream bloody murder at this kind of fix. Still...I like it if used properly and appropriately.

 

how hard is it to get por-15 off if you ever want to do a good fix down the road?

 

Listen up folks, JD speaks the truth on this.

 

Oh... damn... good point.

How hard is it to weld/solder pinholes in the first place, anyway?

~Jason

 

It is a pistol to feather, I know that. It just "fuzzes" up. It will sand or grind off , more difficult if used with 'glass. I can't think of ANY chemical that will soften or dissolve it.

 

You don't really "weld" the pinholes per se, you fill them. You got torches? Melt a little brass or lead over the holes. I know the area you're talking about is frighteningly close to the gas tank, so you're on your own there. My '48 has rust in the same place.

 

I bought the thing COMPLEYELY apart. I mean, 100% taken apart, with all the bolts & screws in ancient coffee cans.

The gas tank won't be a problem - it's in the next room!

~Jason

 

for your cab floor theres a new produst out there becoming really popular, lizard skin. Its like a ceramic coating. Hotrodscustomstuff.com uses and sells it. This shit will coat pinholes and fill.

 

I've seen it, but man - it sure seems lots more expensive than bedliner.

Just curious, but does bedliner have insulation properties? I'm betting Lizzard Skin is way better, but what % better than bedliner is it? Can the extra expense be quantified, and by how much?

~Jason

 

I saw that Lizzard Skin cleans up with water. Does that mean it will carry water induced problems to rusted areas?
Bed liner will have some kind of insulating properties just because you're putting another layer down. Effective?

 

POR 15 seems to work pretty well BUT removing it is a real task.
My son bought a 40 coupe and the frame had been completely covered with this stuff. It took a long time and he created a beach behind the shop with the sand blaster to get it off. Had it been paint I fugure it would have taken about 4-5 hours and maybe 20 hoppers of sand--it took 5 long days and an untold amount of sand. It had to come off because ,as someone said, you can't feather it and it only encapsulates the rust.

 

Just go buy Brawny Paper towels ,coat the rusted pinhole areas with POR then start laying the towels down soaking with POR Put 4 layers on it. I did it 12 years ago on an S10 still holding water to this day.. and still no more rust..If you want some I'm a dealer for POR

 

i hate por 15 i really do.im seeing a surge in cars coming in to my shop lately with por and it looks like bubble gum over rust or dirt . i have used marine tex for 20 plus years and i keep in touch with my older work and have had no problems and on pin holes its easy . gm used it for years to keep its cars togeather . great stuff

 

If you're going for just driver quality that will hold up, I'd say do the por15 soaked into a bit of fiberglass mat. They actually have a kit and recommend the procedure in their product catalog. Yeah it seems like a bit of a shortcut and not the most quality oriented way to do it, but I have yet to hear someone comment that por15 failed.

I'd do that over welding pinholes because if you have pinholes, there is likely to be some rust working away nearby right now anyways. once you start welding the slightly rusted sheetmetal, you end up welding a spot 3 times bigger once the weak metal burns off (at least I always do...). at that point you get to grind down a big ass weld nugget. and unless you media blast the area to remove any other surface rust, you could be fighting the exact same issue in two years.

Once you weld and ground everything nicely, your por15 could be drying and be done with it for years to come. with a coating (bedliner, lizardskin, upholstery, undercoating etc.) over the top you can forget about it.

not to say that welding pinholes isn't worthwile in all cases, I don't think it would justify the time for your situation.

jon

 

This stuff?



~Jason

 

In some areas like on the dash next to the windshield or in the area above the windshied where welding would warp to much or make the area to thick? What would be wrong with the POR !% in a tube?