i am looking for some info on engine mounts,oil pan clearance etc... anyone have some pics,tech anything?
I know it's not exactly what you asked, but years ago I had a friend that ran a 53 or 54 Ford with a SBC in it. Seems like the main problem he delt with was having to run a dropped drag link to clear the pan. Larry T
I ran a 56 with a 283 in 1962 then a 360 horse 327 in 65 had about a 1 1/2 notch in the front 4-5 inches of the pan. my biggest problems came from shift linkage on the transmissions till I got my 4 speed in and notched the bench seat. we just hacked at things till they worked back then (I guess I still do today but have better tools now)
About 6 years ago I "Set" one it a 56 2d Ht for a Customer. After sizing up what it was going to take to actually make it Live there He agreed a 302/C4 would be the better option. I made a real simple bracket to use the 302 motor mounts and the ****** bolted on the stock crossmember. End of problem. I have photos of the mount I made, it was way to easy. Good Luck The Wizzard
Use a nova oil pan. Not the aftermarket race one but the original one. I had a sbc in my 56 ranchwagon.
I know 64 and 65 V8's may be more. You have to get the oil pan , oil pump pick up screen , oil pump and oil pump shaft.
at one time Butch's Rod Shop had everything you need . i have an old catalog and they sold mounts to weld on the frame to mount the SBC , and it came with instructions on how and where to drill new holes in the stock center crossmember to mount the transmission . the catalog also mentions the center steering link needs to be dropped 1 inch for clearance. overall , it doesn't sound like too hard of a job. the picture in the catalog of the front mounts look like ch***is engineering universal motor mounts...maybe they could give you some ideas too? butch's is gone , was funk's i think then Death Row Products,,,i'm not sure if anyome can sell you the parts
I put a 350/350 in my 55 ford wagon and it fit very well, didn't have to put different oil pan on. Had to cut notch for driver side exhaust manifold out of crossmember. Didn't have to modify anything else. Made my own motor mounts and ****** mount. Also used stock radiator ( it was inline 6).
I would like to see picts of this. The front of the oil pan sump hits the crossmember . Unless you raised the motor up really high. I bought the Butches rod shop kit and didnt use it . You had to raise the motor up to high and modify the tie rod. So I went with the oil pan change. I really hate to say this but if I did it again I would put a mustang II in it and get rid of that front susp.
seems to me that the last time i was on the phone with fatman fabrication, they mentioned someone was making all the butches rod shop stuff again, using butches name too... lemme do some digging around here an see what i can come up with
On www.streetrodding.com there's a 55 ford with a 350/350 in it for sale. Why don't you call the guy?
Its been over 25 years ago but I used a Chevy II oil pan. 66 chevy 1/2 ton side truck motor mounts. you will have to enlongate the hole down in cross member. I think Chevy truck rams horn manifolds that turn back or a chevelle manifold will more than likely work. we made our own headers. If stick a slight mod to the Z bar wil be needed. use a chevelle trans mount and redrill the holes in X member, Drive shaft will need to be fabed.The throtle linkage on those fords have a bad design so get a cable unit out of a later GM product...........Now many years later... If I had it to do over I would install a 289/ 302 engine and trans that way you can use 65 mustang headers and accessories and the car will loose around 200 lbs off the front and have lots of room and it will drive lots better... Bobby...
don't have pics not sure how to load from camera to computer, have to get kid to help. but the center of the water pump pulley is just a bit above the center of radiator. didn't have to modify tie rod, but there is not a lot of room between it and the oil pan. everything actually fit real nice. I did however have to use an electric fan because of clearance issues between water pump and radiator. will try to get pics asap.
Opies Rod Shop in Ohio. Opies1932 on ebay. Thats who is making em now. Go away. Nobody asked nor cares.
under the hood of every good running ford lies the heart beat of a chevy ha ha just kidding but if he wants a sbc in it go for it thats what hot rodding is making it the way you want it
This swap is a symbol of why I'm losing faith in America. It is FAR easier to put a Ford engine in a 55- 6 Ford ch***is. The excuse of "I put the Chevy in because it fit better" does'nt fly here. This sounds like one of them "I got this here Ford car and this here 350 Chevy how can I make this fit" deals. I truely believe that you Chevy types relish the destruction process of the cl***ic Fords. Everything that is logical points to putting in an engine that is made to fit the car. There is NO benefit to running a Chevrolet in this case, in fact it is a detrement by being both being much harder to swap and completely devaluing this car if resale ever becomes an issue. Once again I'm scratching my head......
The reason I put a chevy motor in my car is because that is what I could get relatively inexpensively as I am on a budget much like the rest of the people on here. If I could have found a ford motor for what I paid for the Chevy motor that is what I would have used. Also I got the complete motor and ****** from carb to oil pan from water pump to tail shaft including all the accesories for what I would have paid for a Ford short block. And as far as devaluing the car, all it is worth is what someone is willing to pay for it and if I am happy and the prospective buyer is happy then what is the problem.
I'm sorry but your answer is simply unbelievable to me. I've often heard the regurgitated excuses before about how easy the Chevys go into earlier cars. I still don't get that nonsense because even though it may be easier you still end up with a ******* hybrid. In the case of these mid- `50's Ford's that excuse does'nt exist and you have to be pulling my chain right? If I did'nt spend 25+ years in the Ford world you might get me to buy into this malarky. Guys I'm trying to be respectful here but you have to be kidding. Planet Earth is covered with small block Fords! They ran from 1962- 1997 powering millions of Ford cars, trucks, race cars and even boats. There is no way you or anyone can convince me that with those economies of scale at play you could not find a good deal on a Ford engine. Especially when you throw in the added difficulty of putting a rear sumped sbc down in that engine bay. I tell you, you have amazed me when you said "Also I got the complete motor and ****** from carb to oil pan from water pump to tail shaft including all the accesories for what I would have paid for a Ford short block". That statement is impossible unless you have not made a full disclosure of the facts. Would'nt it be better to just be honest and say you just wanted to put the Chev in there no matter what?
Your replies are a symbol of why I am. Too hard to read this day in age, and too much en***lement where we stick our noses where we don't belong to "help" those we look down on, since you obviously look down on either him or his decision. It's not your car, its none of your business. Point blank. He asked for "how" not "why".
I love the way you think, I can't stand it when someone ****s an old Ford with any part from any GM. But, it is his deal and you'll only catch a bunch of **** for saying anything about it. Believe me, I know. Ha Ha. I have a '55 2dr sedan, and I've had 2-289s, a 2V Cleveland, and 2-351 Ws in it. They fit like they belong in there, except for the Cleveland, that ****ed. Before anyone says anything about why I change motors so much, it's because I just put old worn out **** in there to begin with, and drive it till they drop. Then, I'll just swap another one in, in a couple hours. You can get a good small block Ford for about 50 bucks around here. Anyway, it's your car, good luck with your Chevy motor.
I try to offer technical input in places where I think I can be of help. This swap has unneccessary technical hurdles. It is simply a bad idea when the alternative (I can't believe I have to say a damn Ford engine is the "alternative") is so user friendly in this case. I'm sure you don't know or care how many guys I've tried to help in my days with Ford. I've done lots of research, legwork, hands on when I could, and even given many of my own parts away at no charge to help guys out. Most of them appreciated when I tried to help them. I hardly look down on folks. On the contrary I've got a hunch you look down on me UVH. No matter..... I simply cannot let these long held myths go unchallenged. I've never claimed to be the sharpest tool in the shed but after a couple decades + of working with the Fords on a daily basis even I picked up a couple things along the way. I truely will neither be either the master of opinion or all things technical like you seem to be, HOWEVER certain points covered in this thread DO NOT hold water whether it's my business or not.
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