I know we are talking about something different but I just fought a front one for waay too long to get the drum off. The cyl was froze and the shoes wouldn't return to get inside the really bad ridge. I had the same thing with a finned buick a while back. I am very dissapointed in myself that after 1000 or so I don't just realize the dam drum is hosed and hack it off.
Anyone know where I can find another one of these? Or perhaps one of these: http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0706sr_vintage_ford_exposed_hub/photo_03.html It would be for a '39 with the flanged-style hub centers and 5wide lug patern. (the kind that the KR Wilson puller would work on) Also, if anyone has/knows of a used KR Wilson puller (or something similar), please let me know. I would be willing to buy it. Thanks!
Says right on that Street Rodder article that Sacramento Vintage Ford sells that little thing you thread onto the axle.
Zombie, I have tried checking with Sacramento Vintage Ford. I cannot for the life of me get ahold of them. They must have a telegraph system. I am still waiting for a reply from them. I was hoping that I could come up with something else (another option) through the vast knowledge base of the H.A.M.B.
You could make your own out of a solid piece of round stock welded to a 5/8 - 18 nut. You may have to turn the nut down in a lathe (or grind it a bit) so that the axle seats solid before the nut touches the drum.
That is not a bad idea. If I am unable to find/purchase one from Sacrarmento, I will be doing this. Thanks V4!
I bought one from Snyder's antique auto parts. It wasn't cheap, but it's very high quailty, and it took less than 2 minutes to remove both drums. Worth every penny in my opinion.
This sounds like it might work better than the venerable gas-wrench method I witnessed in a Jenny station in 1966!
Good news guys! I found a puller in my grandfather's toolbox. It is not a KR Wilson puller, but it works 100% like it. I tested it out and it worked great! I'll try and take some pics of it and post it online. Best part was it was free!!!
On the "Knocker" type thing: It MUST be made so that an internal stop hits END of axle when it is tight. Otherwise, force of hammering is transferred to threads, and whatever happens to the removal, you'll need a new axle. It has been suggested that a ball bearing be inserted in there if shape is wrong... I've never tried one, but traditionally you jack up OPPOSITE wheel, leaving tire on ground on hub of interest. Hit the thing HARD and allegedly it will pop...never did it myself. Seems like lots of violence transmitted across lots of parts. Old knockers are usually made right, terrifically tough steel. Don't know about current ones...they may turn out to be just bar stock with threads. 5/8-18 happens to be what ALL the difficult parts on a Ford are...perches, steering wheel, and hub, so you can use these to protect parts in numerous violent events. Repro ones can be used to protect threaded parts when using a proper puller. Rear threads can be damaged even by compression from a puller screw, since forces are so high, and an end cap usually came with pullers.
This is the picture of the puller I used from Mac Tools. Notice the two forks have curved ends on them. The hook right over the flange on the hub. I don't know what that chain is on it, but mine does not have that. http://www.mactools.com/MacTools/Catalog/Assets/LargeImages/PP642_Large_1.jpg It's slightly more expensive than the KR Wilson repro, but since mine was already paid for, its a win! You guys might try searching for used Pitman Arm pullers to do this job. Might find a bargain out there! P.S. The axle knocker was what I was going to use before I found this lying in the tool box. It was only around $3 from macsautoparts.com. Also a great buy!
Hey guys, my apologies if this has been mentioned somehere else in the thread. When I've had this problem I've just welded or brazed 2 or 3 equally spaced 3/8" nuts directly onto the drum. Then I used a slide hammer with a big washer and a bolt to yank the drum off. After you get them drum off you grind off the welds and you're done.
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