I ordered a mild steel brake line kit from Speedway (#617-8550) that came with just about everything I need to plumb my brakes. I'm running GM mid size discs on the front and Ford drums in the rear. The kit came with braided brake hoses, but I don't want to use them. I'm trying to find black rubber replacements. I found a hose that will work in the rear that already has a built in T, but I haven't been able to find any front hoses. BTW, I'm using the through frame bolts that have the AN3 male end on the outside of the frame. Ideally, I'd like to find hoses about 16 to 18 inches long with a GM banjo fitting on one end and an AN3 female on the other end. I found hoses that have the banjo/AN3 male ends. Any suggestions and more importantly, part numbers for hoses with a female end? Another way to approach the problem is to locate an adapter. AN3 female to AN3 male? Would this work? Does it exist? One more question – are residual pressure valves required? I've read that I need a 2psi in the front and a 10psi in the rear. What about an adjustable proportioning valve? My MC is a dual reservoir with the larger side feeding the front brakes. I hoping to have as few joints in the system as possible to minimize chasing leaks.
find yourself some large diameter shrink tubing and put that over the steel braid,hit it with a heat gun and you're done.
monte carlo/s-10(mid 80's) brake hoses may work, but they are not -3 on the female end. Speedway had adapters for this problem though. I hate potato salad
A "real" auto parts store will have a book on brake hoses, and in the back will be sizes and fittings for each part #. Or, an industrial hose company can make black ones to your order.
If your master cylinder is underneath the floor, you should use the residual pressure valves to prevent the system from draining back into the master cylinder due to gravity. 2 psi for discs, 10 psi for drums, because the drums have return springs squeezing the wheel cylinder, discs don't. And you will probably need to run an adjustable proportioning valve with a disc/ drum combo. When set (by trial and error) it reduces pressure to the rear circuit to ensure the rears don't lock up before the fronts.
Halfdozen is right, use residual valves when your system is disc/drum and master is under the floor. A site that I used, and had lots of good technical info as well as diagrams, was www.mpbrakes.com
Can you recommend an industrial hose company?[/QUOTE] Look in the phone book...I've got 2 of them within 20 miles of me. Those guys will be good for brake hoses, power steering hoses, buying fittings, air hose, etc. Any good truck repair place should be able to recommend one in your area, too.
Perfectly spoken. Something else to think about, are the flexible lines dot approved? I **** canned a set of perfectly good 3an hoses because they didn't have a dot certification on them. I purchased new ones from russell performance. I won't risk safety to save a buck. A brake light switch is also something you have to consider.Electrical or mechanical.The hot rod shop I go to prefers mechanical. I purchased one from www.yogisinc.com or I have heard 54 chevs had them.
The Jalopy Journal
