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Customs Front Wheel Drive

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chuck-o-saurus, Jul 16, 2008.

  1. Chuck-o-saurus
    Joined: Feb 22, 2008
    Posts: 34

    Chuck-o-saurus
    Member

    I'm putting together a 1940 Chevy Sedan. I will use late model running gear, perhaps from a light wreck wherein the pieces I want are not damaged. I am thinking seriously about going front wheel drive. Late model Buick's and such with a decent V6 and FWD are pretty damn cheap - a whole lot cheaper than what it costs to build a motor/trans and buy the distributor, starter, alternator, carb, etc. All I want to do is cruise, not race.

    My first concerns are: checking the tire track to make sure it will fit inside the front fenders, then checking the transaxle and such to see that it will fit inside the tapered hood. My second concerns: haven't got there yet!

    Thanks for any feed back?

    ** All right, all right. I thought it would be kind of cool and different and interesting. Guess not. It will be RWD after all - via a Corvair or VW Beetle. J/K.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2008
  2. sawzall
    Joined: Jul 15, 2002
    Posts: 4,757

    sawzall
    Member

    40 chevy is pretty narrow.
     
  3. spudshaft
    Joined: Feb 28, 2003
    Posts: 685

    spudshaft
    Member

    No, unless you really want to do it.
     
  4. andysbodys
    Joined: Jul 11, 2008
    Posts: 7

    andysbodys
    Member
    from Utah

    I think a FWD rod is an awesome idea. However that said,
    Why on gods green earth would you want to have to work on an EFI Buick v6? Consider some of the "future" costs you would come accross that you dont have with say a conventional carburateded v8.

    Trouble code scanner, you will need one unless you plan to pay a shop to work on it for you. $100 to $9000

    Computer used $90 reman $300 Dealer $500
    O2 sensors $30 -$90
    cam, crank, knock sensors, $45 - $90 ea
    Coil Packs $110 -$300
    Catalytic converters A/M $100 dealer $400-$900
    Intake manifold and upper gaskets parts cost only $300-$500 Shop labor if you paid someone one to replace it $1500 -$2400 or it takes between 6- 1000 hrs depending on a tecs skill level ( these are prone to failure in many v6 models)

    CV axles $60-$120 ea

    Not to mention having to swap over the wire harness and instrument cluster with pos oem plugs and plastic clips. A HEI Chevy v8 only takes 1 wire.

    Compare the replacement cost of a rebuilt TH350 and a rebuilt fwd buick trans.

    Think about how you would attach the buick front suspension as it is struts and a huge front k member.

    In my area you can pick up a running mid 80s camaro with a v8 and a 700r4 for about $1000 , Edelbrock intake and carb new $400, SpeedWay non computer 700r4 lock up kit $150, So for about $2000 you could have and engine and trans combo that is a pleasure to work on and have 4spds with overdrive.
     
  5. John Denich
    Joined: Nov 20, 2005
    Posts: 2,718

    John Denich

  6. Gepetto
    Joined: Nov 29, 2007
    Posts: 121

    Gepetto
    Member
    from Orange

    What the fuck? Did you even think about it before you posted. Just because it is cheap doesn't mean its good. Rome was not built in a day.
     
  7. Silent_Orchestra
    Joined: Jun 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,313

    Silent_Orchestra
    BANNED
    from Omaha, NE

    Umm....why?? I'm building a '29 Poncho with a cad 500 and 425 transaxle (th400 turned sideways) stuck in the back...but a fwd '40 chev....are you serious...with a buick v6....yuck....What is the point of having the car at the show that everybody walks by and says "What the fuck was this dude thinking?" Seriously think about it...If you want something with decent gas mileage and to cruise in...Get a 4.3l Chevy V6 and bolt a 350 or 400 behind it...or a 700 with OD...You can get some serious shit for the 4.3l if you ever do decide to hop it up too. Plus they are as cheap to work on as a 350....and any u pull it should have an S10 of some sort of full size chevy pick up with one. If it were me I'd go with the 4.3L easy to get ahold of....and work on...reliable as hell...and it's not super goofy lookin. And you don't have to worry about your wheel track or anything...a whole lot less measuring...and more time to go cruising. If you decide to go for the 4.3L hit me up...I've got some sweet links for 4.3 shit.
     
  8. hillbillyhellcat
    Joined: Aug 26, 2002
    Posts: 596

    hillbillyhellcat
    Member

    How about an Olds Toronado or Eldo drivetrain... I think in the early '80s they used a 350 until they went to the 4.1 and 4.5/4.9 engine....
     
  9. tjm73
    Joined: Feb 17, 2006
    Posts: 3,655

    tjm73
    Member

    Sounds like a botched abortion about to happen to me.....
     
  10. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,034

    Retrorod
    Member

    I just walked down to the shop and eyeballed a new Impala up on the hoist and tried to imagine that drivetrain in a '40 Chevy. There wouldn't be enough sheet metal left to cover the whole mess. Take a good look at the dimensions of a transverse mounted V-8 or V-6. If you are determined to undertake this task......good luck, but I really suggest you get your tape measure out.
     
  11. 39sledge
    Joined: Feb 11, 2007
    Posts: 155

    39sledge
    Member

    oh well another project started just what was laying around bunch of shit go ahead have at it we will put it under ugly customs list.
     
  12. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 9,036

    belair
    Member

    Not all ideas are good ideas. I would have a different "first concern".
     
  13. Slide
    Joined: May 11, 2004
    Posts: 3,021

    Slide
    Member

    I really don't see how you'd be able to get it all in place without some really ugly mods to the front sheet metal.

    Many front drive cars have the transverse engine offset in front of the front axle, and the Chevy's engine compartment is even narrower up there.

    If I HAD to go with one of those deals, I'd mount it as a mid-engine, and use the transaxle as a rear-drive deal. Just replace the tie rods with some adjuster bars to keep the alignment in check. Keep the radiator up front and run super-long radiator hoses to the back.

    But those front-drive setups are cheap for a reason.
     
  14. Silent_Orchestra
    Joined: Jun 17, 2007
    Posts: 1,313

    Silent_Orchestra
    BANNED
    from Omaha, NE

    another way is...figure out how to mount say a Cad 500 or Olds 455 Eldos and Toros used them with a 425 trans axle..they are mounted like a normal engine...but you still have strut towers to deal with. The only real advantage to fwd or mid engine is a flat floor. and aww factor...but you don't get aww factor with a fucked up front wheel drive. But trust me when you see my '29 Poncho RPU with a cad 500 sittin in the back...you'll go "OH SHIT SON!!!!" and then when I step on the gas a little to hard and it lifts the nose in the air on the interstate...."OH SHIT SON!!" do it right or sell me your car.
     
  15. A guy I know has a '53 Henry J with an '86 Chrysler Turbo Le Baron floor pan under it. He used all the interior,seats, console, even carpet, and the stock LeBaron dash to make it a simple swap. 30 mpg with heat and AC and hauls ass when you get into the boost.
    Chopped top, frenched headlights with eyebrows and canted long skinny Caddy taillights in the rear, pretty cool car actually.
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Have you noticed the manufacturers are making a return to rear wheel drive? Probably a good reason why.
     

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