I am in need of some sage advice on my braking system. I am building a 34 plymouth, fenderless and exposed sedan. I'm running a heavy 1952 stock hemi and 727 trans. Up front I used 45 fin buick drums and guts and in the rear a GM drum van rear end. Plenty of meat for the drums. The question now is what do I do for a brake pedal and MC. I'm a bit older and thought that having a booster would be a good idea just to help me stop this hot rod. Should I go with any of the Speedway combo pedal and MC or Total Cost Involved. Is there another vendor out there that puts out a neat product? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I plan on mounting it to the left frame rail under the floor. I look forward to your advice. Thanks
I posted this request for ***istance last night. Had alot of lookers , but no one with any advice. I know there's got to be someone that has either fabbed their own pedal with recommendations and I know there are those that buy them from vendors. I just need some guidance on the issue. Look forward to you comments.
Depends what you like to do. I like to make stuff so I made my own pedal ***embly. Probably hard to justify in the US where you have so much aftermarket stuff so handy and cheap. My only advice if you make your own is look closely at OEM and aftermarket products so as not to reinvent the wheel and get the pedal ratio right. 1:6 is about right if I remember correctly. Pete
i\'d look at what pete & jakes has to offer, they make them for a `32 ford that weld onto the frame rail check this out: http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/32/32_mc.htm
Basic brake information can be found here. http://www.hotrodheaven.com/tech/brakes/brakes1_index.htm http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/brake_facts.html Also check out Ch***is Engineering and Master Power Brake. -Bigchief.
I have a '31 Plymouth Sedan with a big block Chevy, and I have manual brakes in it with four wheel disc brakes. It's not very hard to stop. I used a generic Model A brake pedal ***embly in that one and just modified how it mounted with some big gussets to mount it to the inside of the boxed firewall. Those are good places that were mentioned, but one more good place is "Engineered Components Inc". They sell all kinds of brake kits and they're knowledgeable about what works with what. You may need some 10 psi check valves to go in the lines to the front and rear. They help keep fluid from draining backwards into the master cylinder if your brake cylinders are higher than the M.C., and they help keep the seals seated and overcome some of the return spring force of the brakes. I think for drum/drum, you don't usually need a proportioning valve, but check with some experts.
Are the original pedals the ones that are built into a formed channel tray with forged clutch and brake pedals? If so, you might be able to make minor modifications to the original pedal setup. DF32 and 952281 raised forging numbers on one of the pedals? A sleeve to replace the clutch pedal is easy to make. The ratio may be wrong on the brake pedal, but it's made of forged steel, made to be modified. Master cylinder pushrods with an eye or heim at the pedal end are easy to make too.
Check out www.welderseries.com They are H.A.M.B' rs on here by the same name. (welder series) Great people to deal with and offer excellent help suggesting the right combination that will work for your application. They have all kinds of brackets and pedal ***emblies available. Cool thing about their products is they are all precut and scored where bends need to be made. You do all the welding and fab.
I ordered the welder series brake and clutch set up. Great parts and very reasonable if your able to weld up the kit yourself.
The Jalopy Journal
