Hi All, just landed a cheap, older restored '25 Dodge Pickup and it's time for HOT RODDING!!! Hokey *** engine, trans and diff will be flicked and a Flattie and 4-speed are sitting in the garage waiting... but what to do with the front end? It's currently all original, restored, operational equipment. That means parallel leaves, steering box on the inside of the rail just under the firewall, and brake-free wooden wheels. Any ideas on what would be the quickest route steel wheels and disc brakes on the front? I was thinking something F-100 might do the trick since early F's had parallel leaves and might adapt easy, but are probably too wide. I'd probably rather parallel leaves if possible to reduce the amount of fabbing to be done (newby to Rodding here) but I'm also interested if anyone has ever monoleafed or 4-linked a ch***is like this. What say you?
What about narrowing the F-100 ? Narrow it up so the spring pads are in the right place. Measure first to see what is possible. Disc kits are available to put in 4 1/2",4 3/4",and 5 1/2" patterns. If you plan on keeping the fenders,it will require more planning, since clearance is more critical.
How do you narrow a beam axle without destroying it? They are forged I ***ume? Can you weld them? I have to keep the fenders as you can't run fenderless here in australia, besides I like 'em. I don't think clearance will be a problem as I don't wanna go super low... I'm thinking I could use lowering blocks on the springs, about 1 inch or so, that combined with the smaller diameter of 14 or 15 wheels will get it where I want it. What do you think?
I'm not one for putting blocks of any size on a steering axle. I would ***ume that the same process for dropping an axle could be used to get an f100 axle to the dimensions you need, good luck...and post some pictures!
I spotted a 55/56 F100 axle on ebay here in Aus for a decent price, $250 with the steering linkages and brakes intact. So if this is too wide for my car, can it be shrunk in the same way as when they drop it, IE., heating and stretching? Does the same process work to 'shrink' it? Not familiar with how the process works for messin' with the dimensions of these forged axles but I ***ume its some kind of heat/pressure process. Anyone know how it works?
I don't know about cutting or shortening a beam axle, but have you taken a trip to your local truck/pickup wreckers? Lots of smaller flatbeds and utes ran beam front axles, maybe there's one around somewhere just the right width for your requirements. Mitsubishi L300 independent front ends are also really popular downunder. They're easy to work with, cheap as chips, fit under fully fendered Model A's etc and have disc brakes and from memory a Commodore stud pattern. Cheers, Glen.
Yeah, I think a trip to the wreckers is in order after taking some measurements. I'm hoping to do this with minimum downtime and finance (of course) since the marriage won't take another full resto! What's so good about the L300? I've heard of this around a bit but haven't seen one up close? They're torsion bars aren't they?
Factory I-beam axles are forged,so they can be cut and welded. No problem if done correctly. This was commonly done on dirt track Midgets. A piece was cut out of the center to narrow the axle, the edges beveled,and welded back together. DONE PROPERLY,no problems. Not sure how you would sneak that past the Engineers. Might be "easier" to adapt/swap on a different set of spindles.
Don't know the dimensions of the 25 but a fellow here has a 37 or 8 Dodge pu mounted on Mazda B 2000 frame. Said he found it would fit as he worked at an exhaust shop ad measured everything the looked like a likely donor. He used the entire frame and swapped the body over to it. I believe he was running a ford 302 and 5 speed, which because Ford and Mazda trade platforms fit w/o a lot of problems. There is a MOPAR show here tomorrow, if he is there, I'll get some pics.
That'd be great. I'll try to get down to a wreckin yard this coming week and see what I can spy up. Stay tuned, pics coming next week, when I pick up the pickup!
The Mitsi L300 front end is similar to the old HK-HT Holden front end, it bolts into the ch***is and can be pulled out in one piece and bolted into another ch***is. I believe the centre piece is a pretty flat, straight box section that adapts easily to early ch***is, and the wheel bolt pattern is Holden or Ford I think. You'd better join Ozrodders and ask the question there. plenty of very knowledgeable people online, and they're right up to date on Aussie road regs, hot rod rego etc. http://www.ozrodders.com/board/index.php See ya there, Cheers, Glen.
Use the search function. There have been several threads concerning Mopar tube axles. It's fairly easy to adapt Ford spindles to them and all the aftermarket brake/hub stuff is a bolt on after that. "Double dip" tube axles is the slang term most commonly used for these. I run a later 30's version on my T truck with Ford spindles.
This thread shows exactly how to shorten an I-beam axle: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168602&highlight=shortening+beam
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