This is especially for the folks wanting to swap a BBF into a late 50's Ford Custom 300 chassis... I thought I would share my experience with making a set of headers for my '59 Ford Ranch Wagon. There are very few ready-made headers for a 429/460 swap into a '57-'59 full size Ford car, and the few that are available all have small primary tube sizes. I wanted to preserve the factory stamped upper A-arms, which unfortunately presents a major clearance problem with the exhaust ports. To compound the problems, I am running TFS Street heads in a chassis that I have converted to power steering, and have lowered ~8" on air bags over shocks. Nothing off the shelf was going to work, so here is what I came up with from Summit Racing: 1.) FelPro Exhaust Gaskets: FPP-1420 - $23.95 2.) Hedman 5/16" Thick 385 Series Flanges (I port matched the flanges to the TFS heads): HED-10370 - $116.00 3.) Hedman 2.25" Primary Tube Exhaust Kit: HED-65675 - $215.95 An extremely tight fit. Only 1 7/8" clearance between the upper A-arms and # 1,2,5,6 exhaust ports. New upper A-arms can be made or purchased to improve clearance issues. I wanted to preserve the factory stamped arms since I like them so much. Passenger side. 2.25" primary tubes from ports #3 and #4 merge into the bottom left and right of the 4" collector. The primary tubes from ports #1 and #2 merge into the top left and right. Routing of the primary for port #1 Completed passenger side header. 2.25" primary tubes MIG welded at flange and 4" collector. Primary tubes TIG welded and ground flush. Exhaust ports #1 and #2 are a nightmare with only 1 7/8" clearance. There is not enough room to route the primary tubes between the block and the upper A-arms, which means the tubes have to go up and over the arms. The primary tubes must make an extremely sharp transition, which is by no means ideal, but is about the best given the situation. I routed the tubes as close to the upper A-arm as possible to help ease the transition angle. I made sure to mock up the headers while the chassis was fully lowered. The upper A-arm cannot physically travel any further upwards, and will not run into the #1 and #2 primary tubes. I will ultimately wrap the header tubes to help with heat convection to the upper A-arm. I rebuilt the arms with polyurethane bushings to help combat heat issues. Driver side header. The primary tubes for exhaust ports #7 and #8 merge into the bottom left and right of the 4" collector. The poster tube marks where the steering shaft will pass through the primary tubes. Primary tubes for ports #5 and #6 routed up and over the factory upper A-arm. I had to deal with the same nightmare clearance issues encountered with ports #1 and #2, plus routing the primary tubes around the steering shaft. Passenger side header, 2.25" primary tubes to 4" collector. Tubes for exhaust ports #1 and #2 swept up and over upper factory A-arm, which makes for an extremely steep transition (far from ideal, but about the best given the situation). Coated with high heat flat black paint, and will be wrapped in the near future. Driver side header, 2.25" primary tubes to 4" collector. Tubes for exhaust ports #5 and #6 swept up and over upper factory A-arm, and split from the tubes for #7 and #8 to allow a pass through for the steering shaft. The upward sweep of tubes #5 and #6 makes for an extremely steep transition (far from ideal, but about the best given the situation). Coated with high heat flat black paint, and will be wrapped in the near future. 4" collectors will go into straight exhaust electric cut outs. The exhaust will then step down to 3" and be routed under the notched crossmember into an X pipe, high flow mufflers, and then into exhaust outlets frenched into the body just prior to the rear wheels on each side. Completed headers, from the front. Thanks, and I hope you enjoyed the write-up and pictures.
Thanks. With some trimming along the contour of the upper A-arms, the inner fender wells will still fit. Based on the mock-ups I have done, they hide the headers (with the exception of the beginnings of the #1,2,5,6 primaries) nicely, and keep the engine compartment looking tidy.
Here are some pictures of how the headers fit with the body on. Unfortunately, I don't have any shots of the front fender and inner fender well mock ups.
As a quick FYI, just in case anyone wants to use this article for header ideas for thier late 50's Ford... I forgot to mention that the Hedman Header kit I used (Part #HED-65675 from Summit Racing) is for a BBC. I chose this kit because it was the least expensive of the large primary tube universal big block kits, and contained quite a bit of tubing. So if you go with the above kit, don't expect it to fit directly. You will have to get creative and cut up the primary tubes to fit your particular application.
Nice work. Includes the trans cross member and floor pan braces. We did a 57 Golden Hawk which no one had headers for and it was before they had the plastic "try out" kits so we got the thick flanges with stub pipes and used defroster duct to make the fake header tubes. Once formed the ducting was punched full of holes and spray foam filled. When foam set up the tubes were plenty strong enough to use for patterns on the tubing bender. Now that there are trial kits one can file this in the folder of useless facts.
Nice work on the OPs car. Buying flanges, tubing and collectors can get expensive (especially the over 2”stuff) good idea buying a kit and swapping flanges. I built several sets over the years on mid-fifties Fords with FEs in them, the ports point somewhat downward and the A-arms are always a big obstacle. Looking good!
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