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Electric fan?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fast41, Jul 30, 2008.

  1. fast41
    Joined: Jul 14, 2006
    Posts: 68

    fast41
    Member

    Is it better to have a fan as a puller or a pusher? Also my radiator measures 18x18, how big of a fan should I use?:confused:
     
  2. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,504

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

    1. PULLER
    2. as big as you can get in there.. the cfm rating varies on the makes..
     
  3. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,612

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    A 16" would be best as it would cover the most area,make sure you run a relay kit with it as the amp draw will fry most toggle switches I got my relays from Watsons Streetworks their website has some real good info on relays,check it out!
     
  4. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,034

    Retrorod
    Member

    I run a shrouded 16" puller, it covers almost all of the core. NEVER had a temp problem.
     
  5. Puller. I've been told that test have been run that shows they work the same. It just don't make no sense to me that if the pusher is up front pushing and running slower than the air coming in the grill from going 70 mph that you don't slow the other air down. $.02..
     
  6. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,698

    Weasel
    Member

    Not all fans are equal. Best deals and honest advice I have found are from Skip White in TN - he's on EvilBay. Maradyne have really good reviews - not cheap but then you want it to cool don't you? Not all cfm ratings are apples for apples - check the amp draw. More amps = more cooling but blade design plays a part too. 16" would be about your maximum size. Relay essential. Shrouded puller is best, as Retrorod says. Make sure all the air is channeled through your radiator.
     
  7. Dirk35
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 2,067

    Dirk35
    Member

    I have a Spal Puller on my 35. However, cause I have yet to drive with a hood, it has never came on other than once when the coolant level was low due to a slow leak at the water neck. Its thremocouple is set to have it come on at 195........maybe 205...... cannot really remember.
     
  8. Midnight 50
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 568

    Midnight 50
    Member

  9. Mudslinger
    Joined: Aug 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,966

    Mudslinger
    Member

    If you want cheap but dependable look at a Ford Taurus elec fan.
    You can find them around $40 to $60 with all the wiring.
     
  10. Bob Dobolina
    Joined: Jul 27, 2006
    Posts: 332

    Bob Dobolina
    Member

    x2
    Mk VIII fans work well also. If you hit the salvage yard, get the pigtail that plugs into the fan as well. This is NOT a connection you want to make with individual connectors. The lincoln units pull upwards of 80 amps on high speed startup :eek:. HD relays and 10-12 ga wire is your friend here.
     
  11. Searcher
    Joined: Jul 8, 2007
    Posts: 620

    Searcher
    Member

    What brand was it ?

    My 35 will get a bit hot in a traffic jam on a Hot day, but runs cool otherwise. It will climb from 180 to 210 if your not moving,and would probably keep climbing if you were caught along time ?

    It has a stainless 6 bladed flex fan now that's 16" and about an 3/4" from the radiator.

    Bob
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2008
  12. Johnny1290
    Joined: Apr 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,834

    Johnny1290
    Member

    I have a Lincoln Mark VIII fan and a Taurus fan for sale if anybody wants 'em, junkyard fresh. The Lincoln is an 18" monster I believe, the Taurus is a lot smaller but pushes a *lot* of cfms. I only have 3" of clearance between the waterpump pulley and the radiator, so they don't fit in my car. Guess i shoulda measured first :rolleyes:. What I need is a dual electric fan from a Contour, they're pretty common at pickapart as well, just a lot tougher to get out as the engine compartments are so tight.

    info on contour:
    Our dual 12" universal cooling fan employs a low impedance armature motor, uniform velocity curved blade design, and a our reliable variable speed controller. This highly efficient, compact combination provides over 2300 cfm at only 10 Amperes of current draw, with a full flow capacity of 3400 cfm. A variable speed water pump drive adds to the versatility of the system. A very efficient cooling solution for nearly all applications.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  13. BarneyO
    Joined: Nov 8, 2007
    Posts: 134

    BarneyO
    Member
    from here

    Regarding puller(s) vs pusher(s) - has anyone kept the orig stock fan and used pusher(s) also? What is the advice about that?
     
  14. nexxussian
    Joined: Mar 14, 2007
    Posts: 3,237

    nexxussian
    Member

    FWIW, I have a preference for SPAL fans, never had a problem with one that was it's fault, when I have to run electric that is.
     
  15. Dooley
    Joined: May 29, 2002
    Posts: 3,070

    Dooley
    Member
    from Buffalo NY

    I have a derale 16 inch pusher with both the automatic thermostat in the radiator, and an off on switch on the dash.
    I have less than a 1/2 inch between the motor and radiator, and cannot fit anything between the motor and rad.

    In 85 plus weather she will creep up to 210 at a lite, and more is in constant stop and go traffic.
    Once moving it will come back down.

    I may get a new radiator and then plan on using a mech fan and shroud.
     
  16. I use a 16" SPAL pusher. The thermostat is set to turn on around 140. So far even after a long idle in 95 degree heat the temp hasn't exceeded 190 with the AC on.
     
  17. atomickustom
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 3,407

    atomickustom
    Member

    I have noticed that a lot of OEMs use their electric fans in the pushing position, and they don't seem to have cooling problems!
    I always believed electric fans should always be in the puller position so they don't block airflow, but now I see three problems with this thinking:
    1. Airflow through the radiator at high speed is rarely a problem on any of my cars.
    2. The pulling position means the fan is pulling all of that heated air right over the fan motor, constantly. That HAS to lead to earlier failure and reduced fan performance?
    3. In the pushing position, all the air is going right at the radiator. In the pulling position you have to have a really good seal or you are pulling some air from behind the radiator and just recirculating it.

    I'm not saying pushing is better, just that each works fine if the fan is big enough and the cooling system is adequate for the motor in the first place.
     
  18. projim64
    Joined: Sep 10, 2007
    Posts: 164

    projim64
    Member

    I have a pusher on my 64 Comet , never gets over 190 in the heat of the day.I think the key is like others have said is to get all the air to go through the radiator and not around it.I also use a temperature switch to turn it on and off and a closed radiator system to keep as much of the coolant in the system as possible.
     

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