welp, i just finished putting a 350 in the belair... so naturally i had to mount it further back. so i placed the driveshaft into the ****** right at the point where the shining part dissappears.. and the next photo shows where it sits in relation to the rear.(it is directly above it, even tho it appears to be elswhere) so my question is, where is the best place to cut this thing? or is there a formula in which to go by to do so? or has anyone had any experience with this. i am bagged so i expect some movement in and out from the ****** but i know its not a lot. i have a place im taking it to get cut and balanced, i just need a measurment line for them to cut at but not sure the best way to do so. ok, any help or opinions...
Take a measurement at ride hight from the transmission tailshaft seal to the flat area on the diff yoke ( the center area of the u-joint cap) and bring that to the place that's going to modify the shaft for you. I've had a LOT of shaft's made and that's all they want..they determine the proper length needed. HOWEVER, i've never done one on a bagged car. I don't *think* there would be a difference but i don't have the experience to give a solid answer on that. Tony
indeed, if i had a reference point... it had a 6 cyl motor in it from a ??? and some makeshift motor mounts. so i have no real way of determining how far back i went. i just made sure all components would have clearance from front to back.
Then I have to go with Tony on this one. The single measurement is all a shop needs to make the drive shaft.
Grind off the welds that hold the front yoke to the tube. then cut the tube as needed. You can use a chop saw. You measure from the center of the rear u-joints to the center of the front u-joints to determine shaft length. Then weld the yoke ***embly back on the tube. Try to get an even amount of weld around the yoke, so it will be easier to balance.
measure from the back of the trans where the shaft comes out (make sure your seal is flat and flush to the tailhousing) to the face of the u-joint yoke on the rear, this is the flat surface where the centerline of the joint is cradled. then, measure how far out of the tail housing your shaft extends. take those measurements to your driveshaft place and they'll do the rest
There it is. I have had three made, by three different shops. Three different ways they wanted it measured. I would suggest calling them and asking what they want you to do.
Yep, point A would be the one. A call as was mentioned couldn't hurt either. Just to verify.. Like i said, that's all that's ever been asked of me when i bring one in, but that dosn't mean different shop's don't have different thought's..
point "A" in your pic... to get it dead on with little guesswork, i took a straight edge and stuck it on there with rare-earth magnets so i could get the best read off the tape
The location of the yoke in the ****** looks about right, but I would be sure there is one inch between max engagement of the yoke and the transmission. In other words, push the yoke all the way in and then pull it out one inch. Then measure from the CENTER of the ****** yoke to the CENTER of the pinion yoke. Now save some dough and head for the wrecking yard. I needed a shorter driveshaft after an axle swap. The drivshaft shop wanted $100 to shorten what I had. The wrecking yard charged me $20, plus new U-joints I still got away for way less than $100. If you must shorten what you have, I would also suggest talking to the shop that will do the work. One more thing, make your measurements at ride height.
Being a cheap *******, I always shorten my own - not too difficult. Cut thru the weld between the shaft and the yolk with a cut-off wheel, remove the yolk, shorten the shaft with a metal band saw or chop saw, then, taking care to get the phasing right, drive the yolk into the shaft. The yolk will align itself since it is a press fit, then weld. I usually get away without re-balancing - the first few I had checked, but they were good. Measure as above, but I always check at both ends of the suspension travel also, particularly if the suspension is modified. There can be some wierd travel curves out there !
well, i called the shop, got quoted 62$ for cut and balance. and they want the measurements exactly how everyone said.. so hell for that price, im gonna just take it in. then i dont have to worry bout nothin. im redoing the rear brakes at the moment so its up on jacks, i'd best wait to get my measurement from ride hight!
Slide the slip yoke in until it bottoms out, pull back 3/4" to 1", measure from center of u-joint cap on the slip yoke to the front edge of the pinion yoke. That gives you center to center. Also gives room for the rear suspension to work without bottoming out against the transmission. Rear suspension must be loaded. Very few exceptions to this rule.
South bay driveline on Julian in San Jose will do it for $125 and they ballance it. Measure from the end of the tailhouse case to the center oe diff yoke bearing housing. Follow patrick2965 instructions if you do it yourself making sure car has full weight on rear wheels. Southbay # is 408 995 6000
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