Is this a good idea or not? I know how the "sand" creeps into everything and I don't really need to replace all the seals. It does need a good cleaning and some rust removal before painting. Any suggestions? Thanks...
I am wondering this same thing. I have a very low mileage rear and want to blast it for paint. It shouldn't need anything. Can you just put a bunch of tape around where you don't want the sand to go?
what about using some stripper? put the stuff on with a cheap brush, let it sit then get off with some sponges and water (to neutralize it). do that a couple of times and that will get any old paint off. just wear thick gloves. that stuff burns the nekid skin. just a thought, it might work. it works with parts that i dont want to get media into
I have first hand experience with this. Just a day or two ago I blasted by '48 banjo rearend. It was dis***embled but still had the bearing races etc in place, and the pinion in the centre. I masked up the ends of the axle bells really well and went for it. Unmasked it and sure enough, sand eveywhere. No big deal, just some time to clean it up. But I still had the centre to do with the pinion bearings still in there. This time I masked, and remasked and some sand still got past but it didn't get to the pinion or bearings. It's definitely a dicey operation. I think it can be done but when you think you've done a real good masking job, put on another sheet of plastic or masking paper and mask it again. Pete
I think I'd use DUCT TAPE instead of actual Masking Tape. Don't forget to cover up the VENT HOLE also. If it were me (and it was just last year) I think I would pressure wash the inside when you're all said and done.
NOOO! I did a banjo a few years back and sand creeps in everywhere. Maybe soda blast? Or like he said - strip it.
I do media blasting as a part time job. No matter what you do, you'll never stop the media from creeping into places. I would suggest a 4 1/2" grinder and maybe some wire wheels on it, that is unless you want to strip the hear down to just the housing. Duct tape or not, it won't stop it. Soda blasting, will take off scale and body filler and grease and it does get stuff down to bare metal, but it doesn't remove rust, you need something more aggressive. We use soda and also a product called BLACK BEAUTY, which is actually ground up welding slag. Takes everything down, and give you the cl***ic blue sandblast look, but it's very aggressive. and if used incorrectly you can distort panels with the heat it creates. I say don't do it unless you plan on rebuilding the rear. Get the wire wheels out and go to town. good coat of rustoleum primer and then paint and you'll be good to go.
I sand blasted mine its fine. tape it up good and when you take The tape off clean that area with a wire wheel or somthing
If you attempt to sand blast/media blast etc. your rear end with all of the parts still inside it, be prepared to drive to the junkyard to drop that one off and buy yourself a new one. Dis***emble the rear COMPLETELY! if you leave the old races in thats your best bet because when you remove them to install the new one's the surface will be clean and free of sand. Simply avoid areas like the bearing races etc. where yo dont want to the sand to go. Yes it will get in a lot of places but you take a air blower and blow out all the p***ages and then just was it with a garden hose with some good pressure behind it take your air blower and dry it off. If your rear end is just dirty and greasy and you just want it clean so you can repaint it use and degreaser or paint stripper and a power washer. If you dont have one rent it for the day. Again avoid areas like the vent hole and bearing races etc. because water will usually go anyplace air or sand can go also. If you spend a little time prepping it and don't be a mad man with either method it will work just fine apply a good portion of common sense.
I generally rebuild any mechanical parts that go on anything that deserves having them sandblasted...so I concur with the "take it all apart, then pressure wash it after you're done blasting" crowd.
I can totally understand the whole "not wanting to take it apart" aspect. If it ain't broke, don't fix it! But as others have said, no matter how hard you try to avoid it, sand is going to get in there. Even if it's just a very little bit, the damage it will do increases exponentially, and you'll end needing an expensive rebuild. Invest in a 4 1/2-inch grinder, and a course (or twisted) steel wire cup. I've used them A LOT to remove rust. It's dirty work, but will do exactly what you're looking to accomplish, without any adverse affects. Except rust-colored boogers. You'll snot black and rust for days, so wear a mask. But other than that, it's absolutely the way to go with this project. -Brad
It is common knowlege in the off roading world, drive in the sand on the beach and it will get in everything and wear it out sooner than it should. And thats just driving.
if you use duct tape, use the special 180 mile per hour type duct tape on any races. but the sand will still creap into everywhere you don't want it to. it won't take long to wipe out rear. it doesn't take a lot of time to disaemble. then pressure wash housing , and reasemble. thats the best way. cadillac dave
Wire wheel/grind/scotch brite = Not take it apart. Sand/media blast = Full dis***embly and replace ALL bearings and seals. Then wash the inside multiple times. I brush washed my OLDS RE until it came COMPLETELY clean, 6 times/ tube . Marty McF.
Just cleaned one the other day that came out of a 54 Oldsmobile. I used Easy Off oven cleaner and a power washer. Worked excellent and just left a couple of little spots that I need to do by hand. Cleaned the motor the same way.
I used duct tape on the axle bells> I don't think it seals as well as masking tape. I used masking tape on the centre and it was fine. Pete
You know if the seals are good and you plug the breather where is it getting in? I'm not saying the people posting don't have sand coming in, but where is it leaking in? I am a diesel mechanic, and I've seen little cracks leak rearend greese like crazy. If you don't have any leaks, the media you use bounces right off the seals. I just had a rear blasted for a car I'm working on. It was a 10 bolt posi out of a trans am (going in a 1938 Buick). I had it blasted and took it all apart and replaced the seals, and just wanted to make sure the gears and bearings were good. It's a good idea. Seals are cheap, and then you are sure. Plus you get all of the gunk out, and fill it with synthetic. Never worry about it again..... Jeff
Plug / tape the holes... remove unwanted brackets, etc., blast it... then take it completely apart, douche it till the cows come home and then give it a good straightening / rebuild. Otherwise... keep it as far away from the blaster as possible. Gary
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