who's running cable throttle linkage in their hot rod?

my 58 ford is at the mechanic cuz we couldnt rig up something for the shifter or the throttle linkage, and my dad called yesterday since its been two weeks since he's had my car.... and i guess he's gonna put on cable linkage...

plus i have the fordomatic transmission on my y-block, and he couldnt come up with a kickdown lever. my dad told him to not worry about it and that i'll just shift it to 2nd gear when i need to go uphill or pass someone.



....i really want a manual transmission now for my 58, but we had trouble with finding bellhousings that would fit it... long story.


but anyway's, i was just wondering who else is running a cable throttle linkage setup on their hot rod, i wanna know if its really dependable and if its been good to you or not. i know the rod is more reliable but until the day i get a manual tranny for my 58, im gonna be stuck with the cable linkage and no kickdown lever.

 

I run a "push-pull" cable for my throttle linkage on my roadster and it works perfect. I got mine from The Chassis Shop in Michigan. I think that they come in 3,4 and 5 foot lengths you also can get this type of cable at some power-transmission-bearing stores. Mine works great! Pic attached.

Rex

 

I'm using a cable that I pinched off of my 65 GTO. It runs to the mech linkage on the carbs.

The OEMs always kept the cable length to a minimum, to reduce issues that come with length, routing, tight bends & such. Cables want to be straight so they don't chaffe inside. Use good lube too.

 

sweet info, thanks guys. i was just worried that running a cable setup sucks and it wont be as good :-/

i still dunno about 'bypassing the kickdown' by shifting to second gear with my fordomatic. i heard from d2_willy's that i shouldnt do that. i know i shouldnt but i dont have an option for the time being :-/

 

I picked up my cable from the local bicycle shop. Dirt cheap and works good and even a choice of colors.

 

haha nice

well supposidly my mechanic ordered a cable throttle linkage and pedal setup.
he did that monday, so i dont know when it should be here any ideas on how long it takes for a mechanic to get that kinda part in??

 

I'm using a Lokar pedal and cable modified to be HAMB freindly on my 300I-6 in a 54F100

 

J: This sounds like it might work for you for the TV linkage in place of "kickdown rod". About the only thing you might need to add is a return spring so that the cable returns the TV lever as the accelerator is released.

 

I have run crappy 70s GM stock cables on a few of mine for years and years, no problems.

 

my drag car has a cable from a late 70's Ford product..finally starting to fray after 30 years.

Rick

 

I prefer cables because long, long ago I didn't like what happened a couple times when I tore a motor mount and the engine leaned over enough to pull the mechanical throttle linkage to wide open, and I couldn't close it down for several seconds.

Cables dont pull "wide open" if the engine leans or comes off its mounts. They just follow along.

I used to take any old pedal and cable I found in the junk yard that looked easy to pirate.

After many years in the truck, an old GM cable broke at the pedal. I hooked on to it with a pair of vise grips and a shoe string to finish my errands and get home. I would pull on the string to make the truck go.

I replaced it with a LOKAR cable. I really like the LOKAR cable.

 

I'm running a Lokar universal cable in my sedan. I've been driving it since March with no problems or complaints.

 

well its great to know other HAMBers are using the cable linkage rather than rod. at least i feel a little better now... i just hope he finishes it up this week. i need my car! i start college in a month i gotta cruise around while i still can and while i still got the time

 

He couldn't get a cable from NAPA or AutoZone?
My local Napa stocks dozens of throttle cables and lists hundreds that they can get in 1-2 business days with no shipping (as should any parts store). They have been on most cars for the last 30 years. OEM spec cables are smooth and reliable, and most are self lubricating and will handle tighter bends than most aftermarket cables.
Autozone stocks the Spectre cheepo cable kits. I've never seen one fail or hang, but a lot come out feeling not so smooth. I think i has to do with how you cut the housing when you are cutting it to length. I like to use the ends from the cheap 'custom' cable kits to modify a high quality self lubricating OE spec replacement. We actually stock the Spectre cables just for convenience, but I have tossed lots of cable and houing sets in the trash after pirating the ends.
I think actual throttle cables are designed to give and spring back, to protect the carb, cable bracket, etc, when you keep pushing on the pedal after the carb is at WOT. I could be wrong there, but the spongy feel at the bottom of the pedal travel on OEM cable setups fits. Push-pull cables won't give like that.

As for the kickdown, cable or rod throttle linkage should not affect whether the stock linkage from the carb arm to the trans will fit. Even so, a cable will work if set up right (though it should probably be a push-pull cable). Be careful about the adjustment (or leaving it off). I don't know about the Ford-o-matic, but some of the later Ford trannies are notorious for burning out high gear if the kick down is mis-adjusted OR left unhooked.

 

I don't see what the problem is with using the stock 58 Ford throttle pedal and a rod.

We used to get the same era Ford throttle pedals and use em for engine swaps in our Shoebox coupes.

Re-thread the factory bent rod or make new ones from Heim joints and stainless rod.

3/16" rod and Heims work ok, 1/4" is a little easier to adapt at the carb end and the Ford throttle pedal has room to drill the throttle rod hole out to 1/4".

Doesn't get much easier than this.


I've had one broken motor mount - 53 Ford 6 cylinder - and seen a few others.
Due to the angles involved (all factory) the engine didn't run away with itself.

Along those same lines, if a cable throttle sticks you can't get it to return to idle whether you have a throttle pedal arm inside the cab or not.

Throttle cables are an easy answer for some problems and probably necessary in a few cases, but I run throttle rod and prefer it.

Seen way more problems with cables than rod.
Most times due to a shoddy install, but some of the brackets for cable leave me wondering.

Looking from here, it appears you're new to the hobby.
I encourage you to buy the tools if you have to and learn how to make some of this stuff.
Once you do, you can keep raw materials in stock and make what you need as you go with no delays running to the parts house or ordering from a mail order house.

You're only as limited as you want to be....

 

Dat's what i'm using too !!!..........

 

I just did this conversion on my roadster. It had a homemade pedal and rod linkage that looked crappy so I ordered all the stuff from Summit and installed it myself. It was still a little stiff ( the linkage ,not me !) after I installed it so I pulled the cable out and lubricated it with grease. It works very smooth now.
Glenn.

 

I wouldn't get in the habit of yanking it down. Worst case the trans or rear end could get chewed up. For a short time I ran a choke cable to the kickdown near the shifter. Pull the cable in between two fingers and once the trans shifts, throw it down a gear to hold it.

 

im running one so far so good

 

How's the trans gonna get chewed up by manually downshifting?
Commonly done on hills etc.

Downshifting in any manner shouldn't affect the rear end.

If part of the problem is the kickdown linkage for the trans, take a look in a Motors Manual for that era car and it will tell you how to adjust it.

Along those same lines, if you can find a 58 Ford in a wrecking yard, get the kickdown and throttle linkage from that.

 

thanks for all the replies so far guys, its helpin out a lot. im not sure why he just didnt go to Autozone or something to go get a universal cable... all i know is that i hope he gets it done very soon, like... this week at least!

and as for finding a 58 fairlane in a wrecking yard here in bakersfield, ha good luck with that, we have no old cars at all in our junk yards or anything. i'd have to go down south and go to memory lane or something

 

I got a good deal on Ebay on a Lokar throttle cable kit and kickdown cable kit that I used on my Galaxie. I've switched to a manual trans, so no longer need the kickdown, but I was very happy with the ease of installation and easy adjustment.
I believe my pedal is out of a '70s Ford that had a cable operated throttle from the factory.

Malcolm

 

You never got back to me,I have all you need OD transmission,bellhousing,flywheel and clutch,did you make a post asking for a relay to save on shipping?

 

I'm just not a fan of going gear to gear with that shock on the trans itself. As far as the rear end, your putting an instant "brake" on the driveline and shocking the system from the driveshaft back.

I was waiting for a trans to be rebuilt when I rigged the hand downshift and didn't like the way the car lurched when I pulled it down a gear either accelerating or decelerating.

 

Cable versus rod has nothing to do with reliability, it has to do with logistics. Easier and cheaper to run cable at an awkward angle.

I'm running a cable in next years car just because its an easy setup, nuff said on that subject.

Now as for your particular problem it sounds to me like you just need to learn to work on your own car. Then you are not at the mercy of the mechanic. If the bell crank is there then there is no reason in the world that you can't run a rod instead of a cable. Its not rocket science to bend up a linkage rod.

 

I actually bought the cable kit that Summit sells when I bought their multi-carb throttle linkage. I took their 48" cable down to a little under 10". After reading this thread, I'm prolly gonna switch out to a solid rod. I've always liked the look and feel of that over the cable. That and not matter how tight I seem to get he clamp that holds the sleeve, it still slides a little from time to time. Irritating as Hell.

Vance

 

If you dont like cable, check out the Orange Crate from the early 60's

 

I ran a Lokar set up on my Pro-Street Nova. Linkage was a piece of junk!. Modified it a couple of times but it never worked right. Bracket that links the pedal to the cable was not strong enough. Even after I reinforced it it would flex and I could not get full throttle on a Holley 750 double pumper. Replaced it with the original throttle linkage from G.M. which I modified with rod ends and have never had a problem since. Gave that piece of garbage Lokar to a friend but warned him of the problems I had.

 

I've been running Lokar on my car for over 10 years, no problems.

 

I've got cable setups using pieces from Speedway in two of my cars, and have put them in several friends cars. they all work fine. I've seen some very scary linkage built using both cable and rod,,good workmanship is a must whichever way you go.