I know this isn't traditional, but... My flattie is on its very last legs and I was collecting the stuff to do a y-block swap, but then I realized that I all ready have a decent 302 from a 79 Bronco sitting in the garage. So.... Has anyone done this swap? Is there a kit? Any interference problems? I know that I need the Bronco pan. I am thinking of using a 3 speed from a "3 on the tree" truck. (I want to keep the 3 on the tree). Fat Hack save me now! Anyone know what rear I should run? I am thinking 8" cuz I am a cheap ******* and I am not building a dragster Is there a "easy swap" width wise? I think it needs to be 56" from backing plate to backing plate. Thanks for any and all info! Mike
go to shoeboxford.com for alot of info. use a mustang or crown victoria (i think?) oil pan, and some stock mustang exhaust manifolds clear the steering box i believe. You can buy a kit, but it's not hard to make the mounts yourself and save that $$ for something else.... the mid 70's maverick rear ends are perfect for the swap, I think some of the grenada rears work too (80-81?). the 57-59 ford 9" rear are a bolt in i believe. The maverick swap is the easiest and most common since those 57-59 rears are getting pretty hard to find.
haha, i was all excited becuase I actually had info to offer. Holy **** is my punctuation bad in that post...if anything didn't make sense just ask. I've got the tex smith shoebox book around here somewhere too.
I've done it with a fox-body pan, but your Bronco pan will work fine. There are a couple places with kits for mounting the engine. I modified the original crossmember to be a drop out & work with the late-model trans. The maverick/granada rear is about the right width & the spring perches even line up. All in all, a pretty simple swap. Probably made easier by using a manual trans (I used an AOD) - more room than an auto in the bellhousing/firewall/trans tunnel area.
[ QUOTE ] ...but your Bronco pan will work fine. ... The maverick/granada rear is about the right width & the spring perches even line up. All in all, a pretty simple swap. Probably made easier by using a manual trans (more room than an auto in the bellhousing/firewall/trans tunnel area. [/ QUOTE ] That is what I was thinking...Drive shaft might have to be shortened. But all in all it should be an easy swap as swaps go. HAHAHAHAHAHAHA (they are never easy) Thanks for the info, Keep it coming... Mike PS for those of you who have PM'd me about the flathead leftovers, there is a long line all ready. and I probably won't do the swap until late fall.
Ha Ha...hey, I WONDERED how long it'd take ya to think about using that Bronco 302 in your Ford! Talk to B***...I think his has a hot small block Ford in it, but I may be mistaken. Anyhow...glad ya decided to try the old 302 in there!
This is what I did. Motor mounts from Hot Rod et Custom Supply out of Florida...1-800-741-4687. Rebuilt 302 out of a 68 Bronco, used the stock oil pan with no problems. Rewired with kit from EZ wiring. That 302 went in like it was made for it. Reused the radiator but recored and slightly modified for the one outlet. I didn't need to raise the drive shaft tunnel but had to do some cutting in the transmission hump to accomadate the new gennie shifter. BTW I used a C-4 ****** and using the stock rear end for now. It works fine but does run the RPM's high and not great the gas mileage. If I think of anything else I'll post...
Well, being that I couldn't even give the damn thing away! (I tried 3 times and no one came to claim this smog-era gem) I think B*** is running a SBC in his box. I was wondering about the fan to radiator clearance. Is it tight? Do I need to fork over the dough for the "short racing water pump"? Or does the install kit, but the motor back far enough? Thanks again! Mike
If you're gonna reuse the stock radiator then yeah, you'll have to move it back to allow for enough clearance. My 302 is still running a bit hot and have to check the fluid regular, but then again it's a rebuilt engine yet to be broken in...
Ham, Thanks for the pic! How well does the exhaust clear the steering column? That motor looks great in there. I can't believe that the battery can stay in its stock location. I though for sure that would need to hit the trunk. Cool! Mike
I'm not using headers becasue they're a ***** to get to fit. Just stock manifolds and the clearance is just fine...
I think we used late-model Mustang stock headers & I want to say the stock H-pipe bolted up - the cross member required some clearancing - I know it was close...
Ham~ can you shoot me a pic of your mounts? or a sketch with some measurements? My buddy Todd, thinks that he can make them himself, but just needs some dimensions to work with. (you can just e-mail them to me) also if you have any more pics of your engine in the compartment that would be great! Thanks in advance, Mike