I'm using Jamco's sbc motor mount kit in my 50 ford. I''ve got the front mounts in place. When the motor and ****** are in (th350) the ****** mount holes are about 2.5" to far back putting them on top of the crossmember and wedging the tail shaft into the floor. I bought this kit b/c it was supposed to be a bolt in. Any one else have this problem?
Sounds like your bought motor mounts, but not a new ****** crossmember. Did the manufacturer of the mounts indicate the crossmember would work without modification? Have you asked the manufacturer of the motor mounts?
The kit came with a ****** mount that bolts to the front of the crossmember. When its bolted up the mount holes in the ****** are to far back. I can't move the crossmember b/c the body bolts through it. I can relieve the floor some more and cut into the crossmember, but I shouldn't have to. I tried calling Jamco, but they were closed. Has anyone else used these mounts?
I had the same problem. If you also purchased the Jamco ****** mount and bolted it to the front of the crossmember correctly and the mounts are still off, like mine was, here's what I suggest. Bolt the motor to the ****** and then just bolt the mounts to the engine. Lower the engine in and let the mounts settle on the front crossmember where they want to. Align the engine height and angle to ***ure it is in straight and drill new holes. I used two of the stock holes and scribed from the underside of the car. I drilled a third hole at the rear. I then trimmed off the 1/2" of the mount that extends forward of the front crossmember with a plasma cutter. Done...I don't know why mine were off either, but even after moving the mounts forward there is not a whole lot of distributor clearance against the firewall.
i havent had experience personally with jamco, but a buddy bought springs that were to "bolt in" to his car.. (leaf springs) and they didn't.. jamco wasnt "nice" about the solution to the problem.. hope you have better luck monday when you call them again.
Thats probably what I'll end up doing tdragger1. If I'd known they weren't bolt in I would've just ordered the universal kit from speedway and saved myself a bunch of money.
I used the speedway set up for the motor,and then just made a plate that I bolted to the original trans X member.My ***** came when I went to the exhaust.I used the block hugger headers,but I had to cut the drivers side flange and turn it,the cut and weld pipe until it cleared the dropped steering link I also had to make,so the motor could be moved forward enough for the exhaust and the trans mount.Its a bit involved to make it all work right.
It was a V8 car. I didn't get a chance to call Jamco today. I think I'll just drill new holes, **** it!
Hey guys! I've only had my shoebox a year or so, but according to my expereince and what I read at shoeboxford.com, there aren't a lot of parts that just 'bolt in' like they claim to! I've heard Opie's mounts are good, FWIW. Mine are homemade, and I have *plenty* of clearance for the distributor....but unfortunately, that means there's very little room up front for the radiator/fan! I'd kill to have another 4-6" or so up front between the pulleys and the radiator, but I've got what I've got so have to work with it. If you think Jamco is bad, (and they've always been nice to me, FWIW) try getting help from Fatman! They make anybody's products and service look good! The only exhaust I've heard of working off the shelf is the sanderson's super tight blockhuggers...they're shorter than most...I've also heard of people adapting rams horns, but you still have to pie cut and reweld the driver's side...I have the sandersons and they're the best headers I've ever had, no gaskets and never had a leak