Epoxy Primer vs. Rustoleum Primer

I am using a high-quality epoxy primer, but a rattle can of Rustoleum auto primer for my guide coat. Is this a no no?

Do you all think there will be any adhesion or compatibility problems in the low spots where the Rustoleum doesn't get sanded off?

Should I lightly sand off the Rustoleum in the low spots before using filler or more primer?

Thanks guys (Obviously a first time painter here)

 

golden rule of painting is to not mix any brands and stay with one brand thru-out the whole process, but i've switched brands and it worked for me...but im no painter either lol so good luck (not much help i guess)

 

Save yourself a LOT of h***el and DON'T MIX BRANDS !!

 

Damn, I was hoping you weren't going to say that. I've got all the same brand for primer and color, reducers, hardeners. Guess I didn't think that the guide coat had to be the same brand because the majority would be sanded off. Rookie mistake.

So my fix here it to make sure I sand all of the rustoleum off before I spray my primer again?

 

There is a special ($) rattle can guide coat paint.

 

I wouldn't worry about it if it's just a light guidecoat......guidecoat gets all sanded off anyway. Scuff the low spots for the additional filler and spray your epoxy primer....

I mix brands all the time.....Evercoat primer, Valspar base, HOK clear....or PPG base, SEM rattlecan black primer, old Velvaseal, PPG DT reducer in HOK, etc.....hell, even have some Krylon clearcoated with Martin Seynor and HOK clear on smaller parts....

 

get the powder guide coat and you wont have to worry

 

ok i haTe RUST GOLEUMN OR WHAT EVER ITS CALLED.. oops caps lock .. Its **** paint. go to the local auto parts store and see if they got any cheap black laquer in a spray bomb and just use that... Or eastwood sells **** to do it too.. But if you have a good eye and a good feel for a level surface with your hand you can get it close with out using anything..
Dave

 

SEM makes a spray can guide coat that goes on like dusty black. It's mostly just carbon dust with not much binder so it won't gum up the sandpaper. You don't need much at all, just enough to sort of darken the surface of it so that it's obvious where you missed with the sandpaper. You don't need to make it solid black. I have one spray can that's lasted through two cars.

Rustoleum has some fish oil type stuff in it to keep steel from rusting, so it could come back to haunt you by bleeding up under your paint job someday.

3M makes a black powder that you dust on, and I guess a lot of pros like it, but it's kind of expensive for do-it-yourselfers like you and me.

 

Hey,

Your issue isn't so much different brands as different kinds of material!
Rattlecan primer is not automotive finish, I don't care what the lable
says. Most likely, the fishoil or alkyd resins in the Rustolum primer will
not be a good mix with any urethane based product in use today.
Simply because it sticks to the job today, doesn't mean it will hold
up under future coats of disimilar material in the future.

S****ey Devils C.C.

"Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"

 

Truth. I usually pick up whatever black rattlecan is cheapest at Home Depot. If you're doing it right, you won't have much of any guidecoat left so its not to worry about.

Don't take it as Gospel though. Maybe you got lucky, maybe it works. I mix brands alot as well, mostly only between primers/sealers and topcoats and mostly only PPG and HOK, and haven't had a problem, YET. But I keep track of what I'm using at what works with what. Just be careful.

Golden rule is to stay within a brand start to finish.

 

Staying with the same brand is ALWAYS a good plan - no issues generally. As to guide coat I found the graphite powder to be the way to go. No adhesion problems, it sands off the high spots easy unlike some of the 'guide coats' that are harder than the primer. The problem with the derusto and similar is they are old style enamel and CAN cause problems under the finish paint unless sealed with a product designed to seal enamel. I never had a problem with using Krylon black Lacquer as a guide coat however. Also have used the flat edge of a regualr number 2 pencil for a guide. Just swipe it back and forth. Old timer painter shwoed me that one and when all else is used up it does work well.

 

You can buy guide coat black at any professional auto body supply shop. Particularly SEM #38203 for the same or near the same price of a Walmart or Home Depot spray bomb black. I guess its not saying much, I've never top coated a SEM guide coat black with a SEM topcaot.

 

Use the dry powder 3-M #5860

 

Absolutely.....but many of the lower priced, "economy" products use other brands of reducer....DT reducer works great for reducing various products.
But for the first time painter....it's best not to experiment.


The only major problem I've had during a paint job was when using all the same brand products.....

 

Thanks for all the advice guys.

I sprayed the Rustoleum about four days after spraying the primer.

Will I be alright if I be sure to sand off ALL the Rustoleum, respray another couple coats of primer, then use a proper guide coat and continue blocking?

Or do I need to go back to bare metal (through 2 coats of primer) to ensure the Rustoleum didn't screw up the first two coats?

Thanks guys!

 

How about using a different color primer from the same company? That's how my pops always used to do it and his cars were straight as an arrow.

 

You shouldn't have to sand off all your primer, just the Rustoleum.

 

I've used rustoleum as a guide coat before when it was all i had, but as someone kind of mentioned, the biggest issue is that it gums up your paper and there's a longer drying time. I usally just buy whatever spray on guide coat the parts store has and it works fine.

 

if u sprayed epoxy, then went over it with a spray bomb of any rattle can primer for guidecoat, there is nothing wrong with that! its guidecoat! it wont hurt ****. u sand it off anyway when u go onto ur next step.

if u sprayed epoxy primer, then sprayed rusto out of the can and completely covered the epoxy, then u have a problem, get that **** off.





i try not to mix products. but sometimes u have to. im not against it, but im not for it. dont brag like im cool and i have 10 different products on my paint, cuz when it fails, u will be lauged at 10 different times by the manufactures when u come crying for a warranty. most of u have never had to stripe a paint job off due to **** products. and redo stuff, the first time will make u think again. heres mine.

i once used bulldog black. thought it was similiar to regular bulldog on a set of yamaha rhino plastics. i was 25+ hours into it. sealed it, based, layed out a intricate tribal graphic. used the base as the stripe. then shot the inner color, backmasked that. then shot the outer, main color. airbrushed drop shadows. went to unmask for clear. boom! lifted alot of uf it up all to the nasty green plastic! **** did not stick! i was so pissed. had to use plastic bumper stripper at 15 bucks a can and 60 bucks later got it done. i ended up making a little less then 10 bucks an hour on that job. i freakin hated that ****!