so im pretty sure my hot rod seasoin is over due to schedule and problems.. ANYWAYS.. im gonna pull my body and finaly paint the frame/suspension and all this winter.. but i think i will start in a couple weeks and do it in the nice weather! hahha.. then i have to redo shit like rebuild steering box, regasket rear end, drill axles on rear, ETC.. any fuckin ways.. i have been told a MILLION ways to paint frames, and ive read EVERY article on here from spraying rusto to brushing on POR 15.. this is an at home project, but i do have a compressor and could spray (dont mind doin it).. i have some friends that have used the tractor supply stuff, i have some friends that have spray bombed (i wont, i want this car to be nice in time and im not doin this twice).. but ive also had some friends that SWEAR by the brush on POR 15 frame stuff (the satiny black).. i wanted a high gloss black, but might settle if the product is worth it.. otherwise, what paints are ya usin? pics maybe?
Jd Blitz Black and Buff Primer. **Pardon the dust...I did one side at a time so the sander sent dust everywhere. John Deere also has a gloss black that is now used...supposedly
Por 15 has to be top coated. It's not UV friendly. If you have the means, I would powdercoat it, other wise I would spray a two part epoxy paint.
I like Duponts Centari enamel. Use there high gloss hardener. The paint is super tough, high gloss, sprays nice, relatively inexpensive and sticks to just about anything! Any good acrylic or urethane enamel will work well. PPG's DCC or DAR are also good.
Do not use epoxy it will yellow and chalk and fade use an epoxy as a primer and topcoat with a urethane
I have used Duponts Nason and PPG Urotech 2 part urethanes and have been VERY happy. Urotech is actually in their industrial line and cost quite a bit less than their cheap auto stuff. The blue on the touring is the Urotech, really bulletproof stuff. Wont chip with a hammer and you can cut/buff it if you end up with some flaws.
Powder coating is for fags. Single stage acrylic enamel would work the best, hold up the best, and it shines like a button in a goats ass.
Shines like a what? How'd the button get there? Never mind.....I don't want to know . Anyone tried Eastwoods Chassis Black?
Hey Todd.....what about putting the frame in COLOR? Maybe a color to match the colored side glass? That would rule....as your coupe has that look, ya know.... Saw a bare metal hotrod at a recent show, and the frame was painted with black, then big, green flake over it.....so the black still showed through in between the flakes. It was badass.... As for what kind of paint? Well, I'll be using House of Kolor when I build my coupe....
Yeah, I guess you're right. If your cars don't run or you don't drive them, why would you need anything that's tough and holds up to use and abuse? Powder coating is for fags!? what are you, 5? If you disagree with something, give a reason. Something like, I don't like powder coating because "It's not nostalgic enough", or "The color selection isn't the greatest", or "My daddy abused me with a powder coated pipe".
^ ^ ^ ^ I almost spit coffee on the keyboard A good powder coat can't be told from paint. In most cases it's less $$$$ than the materials, let alone the labor. I've seen some shit powder coat jobs that are laughable, much like using filler, it can be right or wrong. Sadly due to the trend to shop only on price there's a shit ton of bad powder jobs around. I personally would not hesitate to powder a frame.
I use the following which has served me well for years sand blast 2 coats Epoxy primer, let it flash off and go on with 3 coats hibuild primer, let it dry and flat then apply Top coat be it straight paint or base/ clear
this first pic is of the 53 Pontiac engine bay. It is done in Bill Hirsch Chassis Black and sprayed from a gun over PPG epoxy primer. This paint is tested for 500 hours in salt spray for deterioration. This is just the bay, but I sell a lot of it for complete chassis spray on high end cars (vettes, cobra replicas, etc) It looks great IMO with a slight satin gloss. This picture is of the beginning frame/suspension painting I'm doing on the 55 Pontiac wagon. Paint is Bill Hirch Miracle Paint and is a direct competitor of POR-15, known as rust encapsulators. Very tough finish and a bit glossier than Chassis Black. The parts in this picture with painted with a foam brush. This paint flows out great with a foam brush and no brush marks are visible in the finished coat. The entire frame and suspension will get the same paint in the wagon. Paint was applied over cleaned metal. (cleaned as in all grease and grime removed. Frame was wire brushed and cleaned only.) I use Miracle Paint on all underhood factory black items. I've also used and sell KB-coatings rust encapsulator paint which is the same formulation as POR-15. It covers and flows out smoothly like the Hirsch Miracle paint.
Actually it was a powder coated coat hanger, and I was 5! Powder coating is way over priced, way over rated, and once it's on something it's a mother to get it back off. Also, in most cases, you gotta pay some other guy to do it for you, when it would be just as good, and cost way less to paint it yourself. I'm sure it's great for "crotch rockets" and badass "choppers," it's new aged bullshit that has no place here, in my opinion, of coarse. Oh yeah, and it's for fags.
Powdercoating expensive? Really? Have you ever been qouted a price for something? The wheels on my truck are powdercoated.....cost $35 ea. which INCLUDED the sandblasting required to get all the old paint off. And they were ready to be picked up the next day. The durability is unmatched. I could have painted 'em myself cheaper I'm sure, and spent a few days sanding and scraping all the old paint and rust, but I felt this was a better way to go in this case. A good powdercoater can also match most paints......and new finishes, like chrome and high heat stuff, is coming out all the time....
I agree, it's not "old school", and it's not for every project. Yeah it's used on "crotch rockets" and badass "choppers", but as stated by the highlander, if done right you can't tell it from paint. I just like to do stuff right once and not worry about it again. Especially on parts you don't see or barely see. Traditional techniques and materials are only traditional because the old timers didn't have all this "new aged bullshit" at their disposal. Maybe we should stop typing on these new fangled computers and break out the charcoal and scratch out some stick figure messages too! I love the look of a traditional rod, but that doesn't mean it can't be bullet proof. If I wanted my frame to be a metallic, a candy, or a pearl, then yeah I would paint and clear with urethane. I have to admit the coat hanger was fuuny, and yeah I know, powder coating is still for fags.
I like and use Eastwood products. They have a new chasis paint that has crushed glass in it that really looks interesting. I just painted my chasis about 6 months ago and the product wasn't out yet or I would have tried it.
im likin this product from eastwood maybe.. i may try this, anyone with experience? http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=23496&itemType=PRODUCT ps - i have already thought about paint, and to be honest, im not sure about future color of the body... also, i have been thinking about some stripping/other things of orange on the frame, but i want to stay away from the halloween look hahaha..
I like the Nason Fulthane line single stage. Ive painted things with the Rustoleum, the TSC stuff as well as the single stage. I like all of them for various applications and different reasons....For my frame I chose the Nason because its durable, looks good and sprays/covers well. My front frame section is all visible...and Im happy with how it turned out. I went with gloss black and my local paint supply carries this in a "factory pack" which contains the gallon of paint, appropriate reducer and hardener all for under $150..... I would recommend this product to use on frames, axles, suspension pieces etc.... Heres the best picture I have...Good luck.
Rust Bullet product called Black Shell. High Gloss black almost looks plastic. Touches up if you have to grind it and is tougher than woodpecker lips.
Hahaha...yeah....you'll get that with black and orange....paint "Trick or Treat" on the deck lid.... But painting the frame and pinstripin' the entire thing could be cool. I've thought about doing that myself....dark blue frame with white striping.
Epoxy primer with Centari and high gloss hardener. I also figured if I need to make a repair I could easily repaint the area. Can't do that with powder coating
If you want it to last along time,what you put on top isn't half as important as what you put under it!!!.....use a name brand like dupont,or ppg's DP line of etching primers....thats the key,it must be a direct to metal etching primer.......tractor paint as a topcoat will hold hold up very good,but you must use a hardner with it.....hope this hepls??
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