Why are these early axles so weak.This was a 57 9 inch axle in a 2600 lb car with street tires and a 3500 launch.I am running a minispool but this is crazy in a car this light.I put in a set of later axles when it broke a few weeks back from a 70's model rearend and they havent broke yet .I pulled them out yesterday after a few weeks run time and they still look perfect .I noticed that they dont taper down like the early ones did.Are the early ones a bad alloy or is the taper what caused this?The early ones also have a groove machined right at the end of the splines (which is right where it snapped) .Notice how the axle is all warped looking towards the end as well.It was straight as an arrow when i put it in a few months back.Did i get a defective axle or is it something else.I know others that have ran a spool in a heavy car on the street with stock 28 spline axles with no problem ...
# 1 they are a cast axel the later axels are forged they have a faint heat ring around them where they induction hardened them they are very much stronger than the ones you have .next you can go to aftermarket axels for the price Clay >>
The groove that is machined into the early axles are real nice stress risers with the sharp edges left over from machining the groove in them hence the "breakage". If your going to run stock axles (or for any axles for that matter) is to clean the axles and paint a white line about a 1/4" wide down the entire legnth of the axle so you can easily monitor any twisting of the axles, with stock axles if the they go to or over 1/4 turn of twist toss them for some other ones since stock axles are alot harder than race axles (a pure drag race can twist alot more depending on the mfg's specification before they should be replaced).
Yup. 28 spline too. You started with the lightest duty 9" shaft you could find and beat the **** out of it. You're surprised? You also said you have a spool. You didn't hurt it at the track, you hurt it on the street every time you turned a corner. There MUST be something to give when you run one wheel on a larger turn than the other. That is usually a differential (hence the name). You didn't have one, so the weakest thing in the housing was next in line. Those other guys with a spool, they haven't had a problem YET.
Since you are running a mini spool the cross shaft is prone to breaking, get atleast a real 31 spline spool, and some good street strip axles, you should be bullit proof then.
Whats with the '57 Ford 9 inch?I went to get a rear pinion seal (4.125 OD) and was told they dont stock them. The Shocker-have you had any luck finding pinon seals?Is there another seal that would fit? Sorry for the O/T question.
No ,i used a later single rib third member.I was gunna use the "WAR" case until the guys on here told me it was weak compared to the later stuff.I took their word for it and found a later center section to build before i spent money on the weak one.Only things im using from the 57 are the housing and the brakes now...
Thanks for the helpfull tip on the twist deal.I didnt know that some twist was acceptable.I was told that if it showed any at all that is was already cracked internally and could break at any moment .I am gunna find a few spares (later model like the ones i put back in it ) and just go with it for now.If it snaps one again im gunna break down and buy some mosers i guess...
Take your sample seal to a bearing house. You'll either find one there or they can order one in by size.
I didnt really find the axles ,they kinda found me.I got a deal on the axles and housing from another Hamber as in free.The only thing i spent my hard earned on was the center section and the brake rebuild .I am out nothing but a few hours labor over the axle failure .I was just curious (not crying in my beer),didnt really expect anything .I figured a 2600 lb car would skip around turns before it twisted an axle ,thats all ...
The "WAR" case being weak is an urban legend propagated by Hot Rod magazine when they profiled a "big name" rear builder back in the early '80s. The "big name" builder said not to use them because they were weak. The problem was, they were comparing them to a nodular "N" case because they look the same & some early "N" cases don't actually have the "N" cast in & unscrupulous folks were selling "WAR" cases as early "N" cases. The "WAR" case is stronger than a standard case (not much), but not as strong as an "N" case.
WAR case is weak, I know. Exploded one in a drag car once. Finally got a Strange Aluminum housing for my safety. WAR case=trouble with big power. Don't know what engine etc you are running but I killed it with a Boss 302 launching at 8000 rpm. 8" wide slicks.
A word on that "twist" - any signs of twist in the splined area means it's time to TOSS the axle - it's junk. The "acceptable" twist is only acceptable when it's over the entire length of teh axle - anything localized = rubbish.
As Flat Ernie said above, the WAR case is a better case than the stock single rib case. I have broke several single ribbers on dirt in my IMCA mod, but have a WAR case that is holding up just fine after several seasons of use. Anything launching at 8,000 on slicks is going to be subject to breakage.
I have used stock 57 Ford rear ends ... under 3200 pound cars, 4 speed equipped and went high 11's and low 12's in the quarter mile with no issues. I now have a Strange aluminum center section with 31 spline axles under my 32 Ford. The Daytona pinion also helps. I agree about the WAR case ... it is a little better ... than some but nowhere near a good " N " case.
WAR case does not equal N case. This was, and has been, the confusion. It's made of the same iron as the single-rib case. Early N cases do not have the N cast in them. Many folks were selling WAR cases as N cases. Uninformed folks thought they were the same. The Hot Rod article & the "big name" rear builder were trying to make that distinction, but ended up effectively saying "WAR case is weak" instead of "WAR case is weaker than N case". If you don't want your WAR cases, I'll take 'em!
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