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Drilling through spings HELP!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 26T, Aug 31, 2008.

  1. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    I have been trying to make my own quarter elliptical rear spring setup. I have built all the brackets and everything looks great but I can't find a bit that will drill more than one hole before burning up. I checked the 4x4 sites and the only "secret technique" I could find was to use masonry bits but the two different ones I tried woudn't even touch it. These setup seem fairly common so what are you guys using to drill through springs?
     
  2. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    Save yourself some agony and take them to a shop that can punch the holes.

    Ron
     
  3. REBEL43
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 722

    REBEL43
    Member
    from TENNESSEE

    Get a cobalt bit,use on drill press,low rpm,85 to 150.
     
  4. Splinter
    Joined: May 14, 2005
    Posts: 1,112

    Splinter
    Member

    Go slow, use lots of pressure, and try that stuff called "Cutting Fluid". They call it that for a reason.....
     
  5. Rootie Kazoootie
    Joined: Nov 27, 2006
    Posts: 8,130

    Rootie Kazoootie
    Member
    from Colorado

    I've used the standard carbide bits I got from work, kinda pricey if you buy them. You might check with Den-Col over on Wash. and I-70 but don't know if they sell retail.
     
  6. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    I'm using cutting fluid and a drill press. I have succeeded in drilling five holes 1bit per hole. I have varied speed and pressure. I have so much money in bits now that I am afraid to even try another kind. I like the idea of punching the holes but I'm not even sure who would do that. The sellout is to buy the expensive posies kit. If anyone else has suggestions I'm open to them. Time is valuable and I've burt up half of my three day weekend on this!
     
  7. johnrockin
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 184

    johnrockin
    BANNED
    from midwest

    what do you mean you are going through bits? like you snap them? you know you can regrind the bit right....
     
  8. 64Belvedere
    Joined: Sep 20, 2007
    Posts: 49

    64Belvedere
    Member
    from Alabama

    What kind of RPM are you using with the drill? I'll be the first to admit I know next to nothing about these things, but I think you need a decent drill press, a pretty slow RPM setting (500-750 ???), and lots of oil when drilling thick metal. It also helps to drill small holes to start with and work your way up to the final size.

    Hopefully somebody else can confirm or deny this before you spend any time or money.....
     
  9. blackout
    Joined: Jul 29, 2007
    Posts: 1,320

    blackout
    Member

    Forget masonery bits, that was a bad tip. 100 RPM, lots of cutting fluid.
     
  10. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    The bits dull out FAST no matter how much pressure or what speed I use. I ground three of the bits but they wouldn't cut after I did it. I admit I don't know how to grind them though and I don't have a bench grinder so I was using a angle grinder. Maybe I just need a bit grinding lesson? That would solve my problem for sure. Do those drill bit grinding machines work? Thanks for all of your help guys!
     
  11. blackout
    Joined: Jul 29, 2007
    Posts: 1,320

    blackout
    Member

    Cant grind the bits with an angle grinder, I have been where you are, wanting to do a job real bad with what I have on hand. Get a bit grinding fixture at Sears, you will need a bench grinder. Spring steel is tough, as you know. Get the tips sharp and the right angle, then you can repeat the process.
     
  12. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    Thanks. I'll check that out.
     
  13. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,075

    chaddilac
    Member

    Most people don't realize it, but a drill bit cuts metal better when it's going slower at a constant speed with constant pressure. You really know it's working when you start getting those little pig tails of metal.
     
  14. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Sharpening bits is very easy with a bench grinder. I'm sure there are jigs and what not to help, but find someone to give you a lesson and just do them by hand. You'll never look back. This is one of those essential skills you really need to acquire if you're going to do much of this work.

    If I knew how to draw on a computer I would make some diagrams to show you what to do, but as I can't I think I would have trouble describing it well enough.

    Someone will show you. Ask around at the local hardware.

    Good luck.

    Pete


    Oh yeah. Definitely start your holes with a pilot hole...maybe 1/8".
     
  15. 6-71
    Joined: Sep 15, 2005
    Posts: 542

    6-71
    Member

    I have been in the spring shop for a lot of years,These several previous posts are correct. sharp drill bit,slow speed and cutting oil.You will go through them like a knife through ****er.:)
     
  16. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 890

    burl
    Member
    from Minnesota

    Sounds like you may have work hardened the steel.Good high speed or cobalt should still get through it slow and steady.It may take a few sharpening before you get through it.You could use an angle grinder just clamp it up in a bench vise if you have one.It takes lots of practice to sharpen a drill correct.Even the drill sharpeners are just a good start point.I would thin the center web on the drill bit to help reduce some of the center drilling pressure.Burl.
     
  17. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,486

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well, you can sharpen bits with an angle grinder, but you've got to have a steady hand. I've used an angle grinder to sharpen bits for years, never had a problem with doing it. They might not be dead on angle wise, but they seem to cut every bit as good as new ones. You can control the "bite" angle of the bit with an angle grinder, not sure the bench grinder jigs will allow that.
     
  18. Rootie Kazoootie
    Joined: Nov 27, 2006
    Posts: 8,130

    Rootie Kazoootie
    Member
    from Colorado

    Here ya go..
     

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  19. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,989

    noboD
    Member

    What he said. Word.
     
  20. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    sounds like sharpening bits by hand is going to take some practice. So do the drill bit sharpening machines work or do I just need to learn the craft?
     
  21. 26T
    Joined: Jul 8, 2006
    Posts: 112

    26T
    Member
    from Denver

    another question. Can you keep sharpening bits or do they eventually wear out?
     
  22. blown41
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 139

    blown41
    Member

    If you know any tool and die makers they can teach you how in 10 minutes.
     
  23. 23 bucket-t
    Joined: Aug 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,366

    23 bucket-t
    Member

    Use a carbide drill. low rpm [ to figure out rpm, the standard method is by using surface feet. For hard steel surface feet is about is about 35 to 40 sf x 3.82 `/. by diameter of drill, that will get you your rpm. ] don't forget to use oil for lube. And put some wait on drill when drilling that will prevent the drill from chartering and chipping.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2008
  24. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,989

    noboD
    Member

    Yes, the web gets too thick to cut right. How big a hole are you drilling? Pilot hole first? I do not sharpen ANY drill bit under 1/4 inch, they are too cheap. Practice with someone watching over your shoulder or look at a new bit and try to dulicate it. You should be learning on a bench grinder. They CAN be sharpened on an angle grinder but it's harder to learn. I sure hope you aren't buying junk from Harbor Freight or similar places. Buy a good brand, Greenfield, TRW, etc.. I like colbalt. I drilled a friends springs years ago for teflon ****ons, go slow and constant pressure. Once it starts cutting go with it. Have someone else apply lots of good liverkilling cutting fluid, Tapmagic is my fav.
     
  25. Johnsonupnu
    Joined: Jul 13, 2008
    Posts: 19

    Johnsonupnu
    Member

    If you know what your doing you can sharpen a bit that will cut great and last a good while. It took me a while to learn how to sharpen one but eventually I got good at it and can sharpen one in just a few seconds. If you dont know how or dont have anyone to show you, you might want to look into buying yourself a DRILL DOCTOR. They sharpen bits really well and all you have to do is chuck it up in the holder and move/rotate the handle. Only down fall is I think they will only hold a 1/2 drill bit (atleast the ones ive seen). I have one but i rarely use it, I can sharpen one faster than the time it takes to get it out and chuck a drill bit up. I have tried the whole angle gringer deal to, its hard to do esp if you dont know how to sharpen a bit to start with. Get a bench gringer and it will make things much easier. I guess it depends on what your drilling, and it sounds like you are trying to drill some hardened metal. Turn the RPM's down and go slow, use plenty of cutting fluid.
     
  26. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,752

    bobss396
    Member

    I have a rule of thumb for cutting metals is pretty easy to follow. RPM (of the cutting tool) = the cutting speed of the material x 4/ the tool diameter. or RPM = (CS X 4)/D.

    Figure that the cutting speed of mild steel is 100, take it down to 80 for spring steel. For a 1/2 drill, it would be (80 x 4)/ .5 which is 640 RPMs.

    Tips for drill press work, use a vise or clamp the material down to the table. Use a spotting drill or center drill to initiate the hole. Anything over 1/4 in diameter, I use a pilot drill and open it up in steps.

    If you can find them, go with a ***anium nitride coated drill. They are better on harder materials, better than cobalt.

    Bob
     
  27. noboD
    Joined: Jan 29, 2004
    Posts: 8,989

    noboD
    Member

    You're right on the ***anium nitride coating.
     
  28. testpilot
    Joined: Apr 18, 2006
    Posts: 207

    testpilot
    Member
    from Denver

    post a couple pictures of your design.

    I was going to do the same and had thoughts about drilling the spring steel also...
     
  29. brewsir
    Joined: Mar 4, 2001
    Posts: 3,278

    brewsir
    Member

    When I drilled mine I used a small bit first...like maybe 1/8 in. thats your pilot hole...then went up to maybe 3/16 then quarter all the way up to the size I needed. Used WD-40 to keep it cool as it was all I had...just keep the bit from burning up. I only used one of each size bit without having to resharpen and so I guess it worked!
     
  30. blown41
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 139

    blown41
    Member

    Keep in mind, when step drilling you select a pilot bit that's just barely larger than the web thickness of the next bit. That prevents the bit from chattering and binding.

    [​IMG]
     

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