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Installing 2 post lifts-how best to do it?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by roadsterman32, Sep 4, 2008.

  1. roadsterman32
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 186

    roadsterman32
    Member
    from wi

    I recently acquired a couple Benweil two post 9k lifts. I want to install them soon but want to know the accepted and safest way to secure them to my floor. I have heard of different methods from ajay bolts, to cementing bolts into oversize holes to ???? Anyone ever set these up and know the best route to go?
     
  2. Retrorod
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,034

    Retrorod
    Member

    All of ours are installed on a minimum of 5" of concrete using the biggest Red Heads they can get through the holes in the plates. A few of them had to be shimmed as some of our shop flooring is a bit sloped for drainage. Even our newest section of the shop had hoists installed this way.
     
  3. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,783

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    ditto over here...
     
  4. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    i saw one that had two pieces of 1/2"x6" angle iron bolted to the sides 12ft long, not bolted to the floor at all. good if your not sure where you wanted it right away.
     
  5. KJSR
    Joined: Mar 7, 2008
    Posts: 2,497

    KJSR
    Member
    from Utah
    1. Utah HAMBers

    You need to consider the quality of the concrete that it is being installed on. I think the last one I did requires 4000psi concrete. But it was a 15k......
     
  6. 49willard
    Joined: Nov 2, 2006
    Posts: 93

    49willard
    Member
    from Maine

    I am about to order a 2 post lift with asynmetric arms. My floor is 6 inch with rebar and fiberglass fibers in the mix so I am comfortable with the floor. My 49 Ford F-1 currently is centered about where I want it in the shop/on the lift. A question which I have however is where do you locate the posts relative to say the front door on a vehicle?
     
  7. Rooster
    Joined: Jan 14, 2002
    Posts: 355

    Rooster
    Member

    1/2" angle iron? Are you shittin me?


    If this is yours and not some rented shop...
    I'd personnaly rather build bridges than salvage their remains. I know the previously mentioned serious replies are pretty standard, but I'd go 12" thick, 3/4" rebarred into a 4x4 cut-out's surrounding crete. 4-3/4"x0'-10"+4"leg anchorbolts @ 2 1/2" out of 1/2"x(lift's baseplate size) drill out lift's baseplates for larger bolts if nec. The 1/2" plate is a anchor aligner and levelling plate. Use the laser to set them equal height when finishing the crete so lift is straight.
    Involved?--Yes Expensive?--Yes Overkill?--You decide, it aint me gettin under it...
     
  8. brownbagg
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 116

    brownbagg
    Member
    from grand bay

    I have a Bend pak two post, my slab was a little off oo. So I grind down a little to get flat. drill my hole for the factory red head bolts. Tilted the post and pour some very wet non shrink grout(home depot) under the post to fill any gaps. and bolted it down. factory says 3000 psi concrete five inch thick. mine is 4000 6 inches, no problem couple years old
     
  9. BigChief
    Joined: Jan 14, 2003
    Posts: 2,084

    BigChief
    Member

    Typically after the A-pillar, maybe about 1/2 down the door towards the rear of the car. Don't forget to double check your measurements for several different vehicle lengths to make damn well sure the car fits inside the shop door and don't forget about taking account for overhead objects, etc. Also, read the directions that came with the lift and/or call the lift manufacturer for more details rather that relying on my dumbass comments.....although I think I'm close on this one.

    -Bigchief.
     
  10. Ditto over here too. Mine's been in several locations in the past 20 yrs like this with no issues
     
  11. The manufacturer/installer should be able to tell you where the left front tire locater plate should go for most cars
     
  12. roadsterman32
    Joined: Dec 25, 2006
    Posts: 186

    roadsterman32
    Member
    from wi

    Well my floor is 6" but I dont remember the psi but the concrete guy knew I was installing the lifts and poured accordingly. Since I have not contacted the factory yet I have another question. What are redheads that several of you refered to?
    thanks for the comments, very helpful
     
  13. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,410

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  14. willowbilly3
    Joined: Jun 18, 2004
    Posts: 4,356

    willowbilly3
    Member Emeritus
    from Sturgis

    Sad thing is that not many shops have a 5 inch floor, most are supposed to be 4 but are really 3 1/2.
    I worked for a guy that bought 2 and then read the instructions on minimum concrete depth, which clears them of any liability, He eventually sent them back.
    You could do the angle iron jerry rig or just cut out the floor and pour some pilasters to anchor the lift. That would be best if you don't have the depth. Any good concrete supply shop will have good anchors. We used a lot of the epoxy in ones on beams that had to be floated in but they would only be in a pull situation if a tornado was lifting the building.
     

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