I am starting to instal a disc brake kit on my 1950ish F1 pickup. I got the kit from speedway, but the basic adapter kit had CPP printed right on it, so it isn't cheap stuff. First thing to do is instal the bearing adapter on the bare spindle. How in the hell do I get the damn thing on. If only I could find a fit that tight! I heated the hell out of the bearing adapter and I got the thing on the spindle about 1/8 inch. I sanded forever, no change. I finally started attacking the spindle (gently) with a flap disc. Maybe an extra 1/16 of an inch after that. Is there a secret, or should I just keep chewing away at the spindle until I get the adapter on? Anybody who has done this have any insight? Thanks, CHAZ
First thing to do is to MIC the spindles as well as the ID of the adapter. You're playing with just a few thousandths of an inch - for the proper fit. Best to see where you're at before proceeding any further.
Hard to say without seeing what you've done, but you could have damaged your spindle beyond it's reliable usability. I installed CPP bearing adapters on 39 spindles a few years ago. HemiRambler is right, you should mic them first so you have a rough idea of where you're starting. I started by finding a piece of soft steel pipe with a slightly larger ID than the spindle's OD. I then heated the adapters to about 450 F in the kitchen oven and tapped them on with the length of pipe and a five pound sledge. Okay, I tapped the p***enger side on. I had to slam the living **** out of the driver's side for more than an hour, but it went on. I was REALLY worried about splitting the ring as it cooled and I was still pounding on it, but it turned out just fine. I'd be very cautious proceeding with a spindle that you've removed material from. Anyone disagree?
Don't File ON the adapters ,Get the torch and heat them to a straw yellow and then use pliers and slip the adapter all the way on ,as it cools it will lock its self on. I have done lots of them works every time.
I did this 2 weeks ago. Put them in the oven at 500* or better for an hour, or until you are sure they won't get any hotter. If the spindles are off the car, stick 'em in the freezer. Same drill. Keep a hammer and drift handy, just in case. Take one at a time out with tongs or pliers and slip it on as straight as possible. Give it a nudge with the drift as required. Repeat. That interference fit is to insure that you have a leak free install that won't spin and gall parts. If you must work it over, don't use a file. Use a flapper wheel and keep it to polishing out lines and burrs. Making the hole larger is a bad idea.
I had a similar problem with mine. I ended up destroying the first adapter 'cause no matter what I did it just didn't fit. So I went back and ordered 2 more adapters (just in case I messed up another one). The second set went on no problem with just a little heat from a propane torch and some tapping with a pipe. I don't know if that helps but it might be something to look into.
I did this last week. About a minute with a brake cyl. hone and adapters in toaster oven, spindles in freezer. Dropped adapter in end of a piece of fence post and one side took a dozen whacks from a 5# hammer, the other only one.
I just hit the spindle with a flapper wheel until I got all the grooves off, and then polished it up with fine emory cloth. I set the adapter on the bulb of my halogen work light, but obviously that is no where near as hot as what it should be. I will mic everything to see if it is close, and then put the adapter in the oven. I will find the right size pipe so I can give it a few good whacks and see what happens. Thanks, CHAZ
It might be a good time to service the spindles? If so wouldn't using a press be the easiest? Of course the heat and freeze will help that also.
I thought I would post an update in case someone stumbles on this thread while doing a search (do we do that around here?). Anyway I bought one of the little hand held MAP gas torches, and after heating the adapter for about 2 minutes it all but fell on the spindle. I had my pipe and various hammers ready and never touched one. Anybody finding this before starting their conversion, start on the p***enger side it is easier, and don't forget to tap in the grease seal on the back side before putting the rotor on (ask me how I know, DUH). Thanks for the help, CHAZ
I pressed mine on. I heated them in the oven and tried to smack them on, but it wouldn't go on far enough. So, off to the press I went. Slipped right on and away I went.
Excellent to see this thread, I was about to do very bad things....haven't heated anything up yet but me but thanks in advance for keeping this on the board!!!
thanks, did the adaptor fit flush to the base of the spindle? or a just a 1/4 inch up. these directions blow!!! i want to make sure i have the right adaptor. Thanks!!
ugh, one is seated and the other made it most of the way.....guess I'll have to go torch route as it's on the car. this could be ugly
I used a piece of tubing, propane torch and a 14 pound dead blow hammer they went right on. the last 1/8 inch was the hardest
I used emory cloth to polish the spindle first to make sure everything is smooth and no rough spots. Then put in a toaster oven until hot. They went right on. Its been a couple of years but I dont remember any problems. It was a speedway kit for 46 ford.
I've made hundreds and hundreds of bearing adaptors for CPP, So Cal Pick up Parts, GoldenState Parts .The problem is ! DIRTY Spindles ! The adaptors should slid on easily ! NO Heat Up to .002 Loose fit and after 10 turns of the adaptor , its not coming off ! IT will gauld to the spindle. The spindle nut holds the ***embly together , it can't come apart. Just have to have CLEAN Spindles Good Luck!
I am fitting Helix adapters on their spindles, and one of my adapters just slides on! This can't be right, it has to be tight on the spindle, yes?
It should be tight; but Helix and the other Hoffmann Companies seem to have different standards than most others. Maybe some Loc***e stud & bearing mount will help secure it.
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