Anybody know who sells spray can etching primer. Jim A. brought me a new frame for my project and I need to get some protection on it.
Check your local auto-body supply house or paint shop for SEM etching primer. Comes in black and gray (and maybe a few other colors); is expensive but works well.
I have had some very bad things happen to paint,when trying to paint over Etching primer ,had to totaly remove the junk,been told it's a brand thing,but was using same brand.
Is the stuff that you buy at a parts store any better or worse than the stuff you'd buy at a professional paint store?
I have always wondered, what is the point of etching primer? Im a moron when it comes to paint so could someone clear it for me.
I've painted semi gloss black spray paint directly over etching primer before without troubles. Am I just lucky or is it more of an issue spraying "real" paint over it? Oh yea... I buy my etch primer at NAPA
You can buy it at autobody stores. You CAN paint directly over it, but it's not going to hide any flaws, fill scratches, etc. It's NOT very good protection for bare metal, it absorbs moisture, like most primers. Not good to put under, or over body filler. Be sure to give it time to dry/cure, before painting over it. Should give you dry time on the can.
Hey, You're going to spray an entire frame with rattle cans? It sounds like you've got money to burn! I'd look into a roller and brush (you're going to have to sand this, anyway before you top coat it) for more mil thick- ness than any rattle can will provide. Rattle cans are mostly solvent & propelant, not product-that's what your money is going for! Beg,barow or steal a compressor and a gun, and do the job correctly! Swankey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
you can get epoxy primer in a can with a built in push button activator... kinda expensive, im off to get some now! hahaha.. ill post pics later if anyone cares
I've never had a failure w/etching primer, been using for years, watch the label for the time period you have to recoat, prime or paint. Some have to be sanded after a certain period usually 24-48 hrs. otherwise adhesion may be a problem. Good luck!
We keep a pint can of etch primer mixed up with a small hole in the lid for a acid brush ,to touch up welds and bare metal edges. It also works great if you let drip in between two welded panels after welding for corrosion protection. The brush marks will sand out before you finish prime,as pimpin paint said.
Both Spies and PPG had out tests that showed their etch primers out performed epoxies in corrosion protection. They took chips painted with each and simply put them through weather conditions. Spies etch which used to be available in cans was probably one of the best out there. No matter what tests prove I do not think any paint mfg's recommend any of their products except top coats be left out uncoated where moisture is an issue. PPG's epoxy DP was all the rage when it was DP now it is DPLF and is simply not as good. The adhesion with an etch primer is way off the chart compared to epoxy. Both have their applications. Etch primers need a barrier between them and final coat. Kind of the the early 80's GM paint failures. They were trying to save costs by skipping a step. Paint flaked off. Etch primer is almost fogged on with minimal mil build up. Epoxy has a mil build up athough not like a true primer/surfacer. Their are preferrences to each product. PPG has a line of NCP? that is both an etch and surfacer that sticks like hell and has moderate build up, can also be used as a sealer with correct hardener and reducer. Probably one of the best all around products for resto work.
at about $36 a can, the epoxy SEM shit is expensive, but NICE.. one can did a nice job on a motor... before and after from today after a number of hours to go from scrap heap to bare metal!.. (never mind what looks like drops on oil pain, its ripples in the metal on the stock pan sbc guys know what i mean)
The Sherman-Williams self-etch in a spray can is the best I've ever used. It's about the only good product that S-W makes. It bites much better than the SEM stuff does.
That falls into the "I have been doing this for 30 years" category. Yeah, but you have been doing it wrong. Read the data sheets is all I can tell you. If ruining a paint job is worth saving the day to apply a seal or primer coat go right ahead. How do you paint right over a product that has about zero mil build up without a primer coat on top of it? You must be one heck of a metal man. Anything can be done but doing it right is another story!!
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