Corvair box parts

Hey any one know if all the corvair box parts are compatible with each other . I have a corvair box that i picked up. It is cast iron and the box was reversed. I think the box is out of a van because the shaft is cut and nonslined.

I see some worm shafts for same and want to just swop the worm shafts.

or should i have the shaft spleened

 

AFIK the F/C van box is different. Many of the car box parts interchange but not all.

 

I think the aluminum box and the cast iron box are two different animals but dont know about the van box. I doubt they are the same internals.

 

It may be a Corvair car box. Car boxes between '64 and mid '65 had shafts that went all the way from inside the box up to the steering wheel.

 

is there any way to know which one i got?

 

the aluminum boxes and the iron boxes are the same internally... seals, gaskets, shafts...its just the weak assed aluminum casting that makes em prone to shitting out.

 

i have the same problem with mine(shaft being cut)heading to the junkyard tomorrow to see if i can find another shaft or one that'll work

and my box looks just like yours and mines from a car

 

i know you can find the splined worm shaft some where

 

Mink,is there any way to know which one i got?
answer
Pretty sure it is a car box probably from a late model by the looks of the steer shaft and mounting holes.

 

The high point adjuster on the car box is in the center of the cover held on with 3 bolts.
the Truck box high point adjuster is off set. The car box oil fill is opposite end of steering shaft. Yours is same side as steering shaft. I don't know what you have for sure. Sorry!

 

If you have a mill, just cut the splines into the shaft, that is what I do.

 

you could use something like this from speedway...

 

Hey

lonewolf can i have a machine shop cut there splines how do they make it perfect??

 

this is how the t-bucket guys use that steering box
http://www.tperformance.com/pdf/previews/M108_preview.pdf

 

Can you not just grind a flat on one side of the shaft and use a "D" union at the cut portion of the box?? I think Flaming river makes universals and unions for a "D" shaft. Might take a bit to get the fit just right, but if you took your time and kept checking the fit it should work. Probably cheeper then having a shop spline the end for you. Just a thought.

 

It's 5/8". Double D are for 3/4".

 

the 3/4 " double D universals work pretty good , also if you need rebuild kits try clarks corvair parts in shelburne massachusetts , if you need boxes anchorboy - mikey - sells rebuilts and reversed corvair boxes

 

ANY machine shop with a mill and a dividing head (even a superspacer) can cut them. Cost? no idea. Its just something I do for myself when I have 5+ of them on hand.

 

That only works with a splined shaft, not the unsplined ones.

ALL Corvair boxes used a 5/8" shaft, last I know no one makes a D/D for a 5/8".

The 3/4" D/D shafts are sloppy on a 5/8" and this is steering we are talking about. Anchorboy/Mikey is a cool cat, known him for years.

 

I got some options

I can just used a smooth 3/4 to 5/8 smooth u joint and weld or pin the joint to the protruding 5/8 steering box shaft and weld the other end to the steering collumn shaft im using.

or i can find a worm shaft thats already splined and swop the shaft with the current one.

or i can find a shop to do it (add spline.)

I prefer to use one of the last options

 

the shaft was reversed . That being said then, i have a car box.

i have a lead on a shaft forsale

 

The ONLY issues on welding a u joint,,, MOST shops dont recomend it (although everyone has done it) plus when you weld on you have to cut it off if ever replacing the seal or bearings.

 

Hey didn't feel it neccesary to start a new thread so. I found a splined worshaft that works except its a little shorter the distance between where the two steering bearing sit. shorter by 1/4 inch meaning that the adjuster had to be turn in more to get box right. So what should i do . I compaired the shafts before and relized this could be some what of an issue. What if i bent up some copper sheet metal? I got to make damn sure the copper and aluminum dont cut vibrate right.

 

I STILL think they are different between the Aluminum and the cast iron one. There is a guy on here RPM who stated that and he rebuilds and sells them .

 

some of the wisest words spoken.

to answer your question about a locking collar for the adjuster... why would you want to use copper? use regular sheet metal, it will be a lil more sturdy and less prone to tearing

and yea, i think that would work to hold it in place. just needs to be on more than that one surface of the nut part of the adjuster to hold it well.

 

the shaft you want to replace has to come from a steel box. the alum box shaft is shorter than the steel, how do i know, i tried it, still have the shaft that didn't fit .

 

how long is the shaft you started with (40+"s)? What i did on some cars i had is , get a tilt steering column , some junk yards have some for cheap that they took parts off of. You only need the top stub shaft for the wheel, its about 4" long after you cut it, drill a 5/8 hole in the center at the bottom. Cut your shaft to whatever lenght you need and weld on the stub. You now can use any chevy wheel/adapter . Get a lenght of steel tube from a muffler shop, i used a 2" x36" cost 15.00 and cut it to lenght and mount to the floor any way you want. had a machine shop make a delrin bushing to fit in the tube and over the stub shaft couple of bucks. tried to include pics hope thy show up , can email some if you want.