What are the rules on welding on a Ford I-beam axel. I am planning a T roadster using quarter elliptic springs. I would like to weld the shackel pivot directly to the axel and was wondering if this is alright. I have seen many things welded to axels but that doesn't mean it's right. I have plenty of welding experience,but need some advice on this situation. So,wadaya think?
I would drill through it and use a bolt on spring shackle. I have seen it done before. That way if you don't like it you have 2 super cool holes in your axle instead of a gob of weld that is hard to grind off. JM2$
Thanks for the quick replys. I've done the bolt on before and had success with that. I knew that the forged axel could be welded,but just wanted to be sure there wasn't something I didn't know that might bite me in the ***. It's happened before!
Welded lots of brackets and such on beam axles back in my oval track days. Same as welding anything else......Weld away!
There is no magic about forged steel. It is basically a way of taking a billet piece of steel and forming it into a shape with a particular grain structure to make it strong. I have welded plenty of Spring Brackets and Shock mounts to Ford Twin I Beams in the past for off road race trucks. The keys to not having failures for us were as follows; Make sure what you are welding to the I Beam is a weldable material to start with. Pre-Heat the axle before welding to about 300 degrees and allow to cool naturally after the weld (do not force with air or quench), this cured weld crack problems. Use TIG if at all possible, Much better penetration than a Mig Weld. Try and design your brackets to be in "compression on the weld" if possible. This will probably seem like overkill to some, but suspension components are risking your life, and mine if I'm in the car next to you!
Any recommendations on what grade of stick and TIG welding rods to use for these axles? I have a some lower shock bungs to weld on one axle (TIG?) and also an axle that has been worn by the spring ends on the top face, due to knackered shackles (I figure stick would be better to fill the shallow, but 1" wide, grooves).
After welding on forged steel I always put sand on the part and let it cool slowly .I have welded on 3 or 4 straight axles no trouble .Just do not water cool or oil cool the part .
I'm not sure if that's cast iron or cast steel, slow cooling like they said above is good to do and, if the material is thick you should probably peen it (beat the **** out of it with the round end of a ball peen hammer) this also helps prevent cracking. If you're really worried phone your local welding supplier, they should be able to help you. You should also check out this forum http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/
for GTAW(TIG) use 70 S2 filler rod...make sure you clean the rod and pieces to be welded really good.....