AV8 motor mount cross member in the way

I have a problem with the front pully hitting the back bit of the front cross member. Do I just cut a big enough hole to fit the pulley and allow room to change belt and carve out the lip for more room for the water pipes? If I set the engine futher back its going to hit the fire wall. What have other people done I noticed that new cross members dont have that bit can I just cut the whole thing off?
Trying to mock everything up because I have already made 2 pair of motor mounts and tacked them on as per Tardel book and cut them off because all the dimensions in the book are wrong.

 

I've got a Dubble A frame (Model AA) and my crossmember was a bit larger than the others (I'm pretty sure it is anyway) and I cut the whole back section out of it all the way down to the 'valley' of the crossmember. I was thinking it was braced like that because the motor and such all bolted down into that area and needed the extra bracing.

Of course, I could be wrong, but it's how I'm planning on running mine.

 

I cut mine for the pulley but not for the water pump hoses. Should not be a problem. If it looked questionable after cutting, weld in something for reinforcement.

Neal

 

Another way is to make up spacers to fit under the ruber bisket. They look like a 1 1/2 pipe coupling thats welded to the motor mount with a washer on top thats the size of the bisket. They used to sell these parts at the old time speed shops. I don't know if anyone sells them today. Good luck with your project. Tom

 

It's okay to cut it off or clearance it. With the stock motor it is the front mount. With the V8 you don't need it.

 

Machine off the front belt groove and bring the engine forward to miss the back part of the crossmember. Leave enough space to slip the belt in from the front.

 

Just cut off enough for clearance. Don't start by machining pulleys. You could use the repops for reference as to how much you can cut. It looks to me as though your motor is too far forward for decent fan clearance.

 

Mine has that whole rear portion trimmed and now looks like one of the aftermarket A crossmembers. I had the front groove machined off my 59A pulley...

 

cut that whole lip off the crossmember.. my knowledge is slim on later engines in an a frame. if you are not running fenders, dont be afraid to move the body back a little bit to get more clearance..

 

Say What??? Leave the body alone! If you are running open wheels, and no hood, simply move the rad forward and weld on some new rad mounts on the front of the cross member. And if you don't need that belt groove on the pulley machine it off. Simple as that. PM me for some photos of my AV8.

 

yes you could do that too.. i believe the idea is to get the engine back more.. not the grill and radiator hanging off the front of the car.. but what do i know..

 

Notch that **** son! I had to do the same to mine.

 

I cut the vertical lip down to about 1" high, similar to the Bishop/Tardel frame.

 

All good advice.
On mine I welded the top of the motor mounts .225" below the top of the frame rail, this put the top of the washer (the one the biscuit sits on) about even with the top of the frame. This way the radiator hoses clear without cutting the front crossmember to look like a "repop".
I did cut the back brace down to maybe half what it was stock, but again, I didn't want the
crossmember to look like a "repop".
There are a lot of ways to "skin this cat", it just depends on the look you want. I didn't want to cut everything off because I wanted to keep the look ofstock......well.........almost stock.

IMHO

 

very well put. everyone has a little different way to build this style of car... thats what makes these cars so interesting.. imo.

 

it looks to me that the reason the tardel type motor mounts were wrong for your deal is those are Merc water pumps ,the mount ear is much higher than the ford p.u. style.and you will need the front part of your pully as you are set up for a 2 belt system.lots of different stuff applys when you try to put a late model flatty in an early car so you will probably have to move your radiator forward or change all of the hardware on the front of your engine to the early style . the later engine is about 2 inches longer than a 59 ab .
B

 

here's a link to one vendettaautofab did on a duece rail (with pics)

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=266041&page=6

 

Ok I cut the thing



but now i think I need to change my water pumps do the older ford ones just replace the merc ones?
the engine is sitting to low and I am not going to be able to get my headers over the rails if i dont get it a bit higher.

 

I used the new Speedway Motors pumps, Ford truck type.

 

You don't need to change...Merc legs are in about the right place, just too high, so make a simple spacer...which could even be a stock Merc spacer. I think distance will be about 1 1/2" or so. If you are using all early Ford drivetrain with U-joint at about stock level, your natural axis is nicely set by the hole for the handcrank on the upper area of spring center U bolts. Engine on stock axis will accept hand crank through radiator there.

 

I would like to replace the merc pumps with truck pumps down the road so spacers are the way to go.
So anyone know were I can get the stock merc spacer or post exact diamensions and maybe a photo so I can make some.

 

No answer so i did a bit of detective work here is a picture of the merc motor mounts with there part numbers. i still have not found the diamension I marked in this picture?
A couple of people have said 1.5" is that correct?
I would love to find a real pair of these but it looks like there quite rare I cant find any on line.



Also here is a picture of the different types of water pumps. I checked mine my engine is a 1951 Mercury and has the thin pulleys (OCM type)I cant change to the truck pumps without changeing the main pulley to be thin too.

 

1 1/2" sounds right from memory, but really you want to just level engine on stock axis and not build to a dimension. Just stick your auxiliary starter through the crank hole into socket on crank, measure, buildit thus. I can probably measure one of those tonight, if my memory holds up...

 

The dimension is 2", give or take a 1/32". I just went out to the garage and measured the ones I used to raise the front end of the Cad in my roadster.

 

Couldn't have raised the motor a bit?

 

If it were me and it's not too late I'd get a pair of truck pumps and start with an easily replaceable part to begin with. I know where those pumps came from, I think. Jack?

 

looks like a piece in the speedway catalog. by the hurst mounts section

 

When I put mine in I did almost all of the above,notched the cross member,machined the pully,raised the mounts,and when I put the body on I had to cut the firewall about 1 in.Good luck

 

Hey Dug are you the guy who gave me the flathead? this is not that engine but another running one, your old engine has different water pumps I could have use the wide pulley from your engine but it has a big chunk missing.

Is this the water pump I need?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/531...ar-Water-Pump.html?itemNo=flathead water pump

 

I'm that guy and those are the pumps you need.