got a 61 dodge Dart. I believe 61 is the last year for the rear hub/drum held on with a giant nut on a threaded axle. I'd really like to put in normal axles, and later brakes. I gotta buy a drum, and they are $100.00 at Kanters...IF they have one. looks like an 8 3/4 to me. one more thing... there is no parking brake on the drums, it is on the tail end of the trans. one more good reason to change this. some day I'd like to put an automatic in it... then there goes my parking brake. maybe I'll just have to take some pictures and measuremants and head to the junk yard but I figured maybe someone did it already and can save me some trouble
Hey, Unless you're going to restore your Dart, I'd start looking for a post '64 Mopar rear end. Mopar used the tapered axle/hub resign through '65 on some B&C bodies. You could even use a Ford 9'', as by '65 they all went with the Bendex brakes. Emergency brake cables and hardware, from a post '64 B or C body ,should adapt to your '61 without much work. About ten years ago, I put a '61 Fury back on the road, replacing both back drums & axles with new/replacments. I still had no real parking brake, even after I adjusted the driveshaft brake, and had spent all that money. Long story short, wish I'd jus' got a post '64 rear axle, with drums and cables and a parking brake, and fit that to my '61! Good luck, Swankey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
There are a number of bolt-in or near bolt-in rearends for that car. First, the full size Mopars use the same platform - 60-61 everything, 62-64 all Chrysler and Dodge 880 models - so the interchange is pretty wide. Unfortunately the easiest fit is a 70-74 Barracuda rear, but I've read some even later ones will fit too (80s Gran Fury/Diplomat/Cop Car?). Worst case you might have to move some spring perches, but that shouldn't be too terribly bad. Adapt the parking brake cable setup from whatever car the rearend comes from and you should be good. The guys over to www.forwardlook.net can help, too.
I'm mostly just looking for the most cost effective way to get this back on the road with a minimum of effort and time apart. cars that don't roll take up too much space. I have an 8" ford here that I need to measure I'm afraid this thing will snowball out of control and I'll have the whole car apart and big wads of cash spent and it still won't be driveable. I've driven it like 100 miles in the last 5 years. I started it and drove it out of the shop and let it run a while so I figure it will go.. all I want to do is stop as well.
Hey, When I did my 61 Chrysler I read the www.forwardlook.net for all the info I could find. This one post from there was a good one. It speaks to a complete drive train swap which you may find interesting, or just use the axle swap info. I assume this will all apply to your Dodge since they are basically the same car under the skin. None of the following was written by me, but Lees posts were generally well done. Good Luck, Greg The Info: Drive Train Swap <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> Ok, here is the deal. The engine will bolt in fine with early type</PRE> mounts. You have a couple choices with transmissions, 62-64 ball&</PRE> trunion type and the 65 one year only slip yoke cable shift or</PRE> pushbutton trans. You will also need a crossmember & trans mount from a</PRE> 62-64 full size Chrysler. </PRE> Here is what I would recommend:</PRE> Go to your local scrapyard and pilfer a 66-68 C body of its rear axle</PRE> assembly with E brake cables and such, cut off its cable brackets and</PRE> guides as well and install per similar locations on your G. This axle</PRE> will bolt right into your 300G. Get the driveshaft from the same car if</PRE> you can as you will need it as well, any driveshaft shop can make it the</PRE> correct length for you. Find any 65 chrysler product car with a big</PRE> block 361+ engine in it and relieve said vehicle of its transmission and</PRE> all cables, shifter, speedo etc. These 65 cables should all fit fine on</PRE> the 300G shifter and speedo. You will not be using the Park feature of</PRE> the trans unless you want get creative with your fabricating skills,</PRE> this is one of the reasons you nabbed that axle out of that newer C</PRE> body, e brakes. You will have to adapt the 300G E brake cable to the</PRE> cable setup on the newer axle but that is a pretty minor deal. The only</PRE> fabricating issue you might have is the mount position on the 65 trans</PRE> versus the 62-64 trans. I think they are in the same spot but I have to</PRE> go to the storage garage today and check, I have a 300J trans to compare</PRE> with a slip yoke style. This is a bitchin swap to update the drivetrain</PRE> to easily serviceable later model parts.(trans parts, brake parts, U</PRE> joints etc) Unless someone looks underneath the car, everything appears</PRE> stock. Sell that drum puller on ebay.</PRE> Lee in San Diego</PRE> <o></o></PRE> <o></o>
i had a 61 dodge with a 383 dual quad that every one said was an 8 3/4 it is a 9 1/4 . there is not much that changes with them. but most shops have the rears stock pilled cause the are not used much and are strong as hell. after i bought an 8 3/4 for 300 and dropped it into the center section i got the right rear for half the price with any gear and posi or not
Assuming that this isn't a drag car that will be launched on slicks I'd use any Mopar rear that will fit width-wise (except a 7.25"). An 8.25, later 8.75, or 9.25 would all be fine. You may even be able to find an 8.25 or 9.25 for free.
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