I have a 41 all original. It has 6 volt wiring and ignition. It's hard to start, and the battery is always dead. Changing it over to 12 volt really isn't an option. This isn't my first 6 volt car. So I know theese problems can be fixed by converting it, but I just can't do it. Any tips to maintaining a 6 volt system and making it more reliable?
first off clean your terminals and all the ground connections these really tend to corrode alot on the 6V systems. Also take a look at your positive battery cable...if its rubber coated chances are its been replaced with a 12V cable. 6V systems need heavier gauge wire due to increased amperage. My truck had the wrong cable when I bought it...just having the proper pos cable turned the starter twice as fast and solved my charging problems!
The short answer is YES, at least down to zero. '41 what?? Condition of wiring, connections, and grounds is somewhat more critical than with 12. I've never had any real problems with generators. If a good engine (proper tune, no bad valves or whatever) is hard to start, look for voltage loss somewhere...I had years of marginal starting from a bad solenoid; Ford would crank slowly, and since it worked, I was too dumb to realize that it was near failure. Enlightenment was sudden...I touched the solenoid after a long session trying to start, and flash fried my hand...
more like cover them up. If the battery keeps turning up dead, you may have a problem with your voltage regulator. I had an old-timer adjust mine and it worked great... or just buy a new one. They're tricky to adjust properly. You could also have a short that's draining your battery, or a generator that needs to be cleaned or rebuilt. Proper grounding, cable size, and wire condition are all also key, just like in a 12v car. Remember, these things were reliable in the 40s, so there's no reason they shouldn't be now.
There's no quick fix. Do as these guys say and odds are you'll be in business. If you are uneasy about doing the above checks or repairs. Take it one step at a time. Ask us questions for each and every step and we won't rib you, Most here love to help and especially love to see people expand their knowledge.
I didn't take the risk personally and went straight to 12V. However, as with all electric systems and as mentioned above make sure all the termination points are clean and in good contact, good thick leads, check the battery hasn't dropped a cell, check the dynamo is charging properly, check the brushes in the starter itself and swap in things like a new solenoid to maximise your potential (excuse the pun )
My buddy has been daily driving a '51 Chevy truck for like six plus years now, stock 6 volt system. Don't forget about millions of VWs still running on six volts....
Start by either finding the short in your system or replacing the battery or both. "It's hard to start, and the battery is always dead." Make sure your genny is up to snuff and change the voltage regulator if it isn't in tip top shape. Completely rewire it. "I have a 41 all original." You're running 67 year old wiring, even a 24 volt system won't be reliable if the wiring isn't up to snuff. Be sure and use heavy gage wire just like the original, 6 volt systems use heavier wire. The weakest point on a 6 volt system is starting. make sure your starter has a good armature, fields and brushes. Just changing the brushes on one that old won't cut it. 12 volts won't hurt your old starter a bit, put in a second battery for starting purposes if you want. 6 volts are just as reliable as any other voltage, they were all 6 volt up to and until the early '50s. The key is making sure that your charging system and wiring are up to par, no different than a 12 volt system.
Another option (if all the cables are proper size and charging system is good) is to bite the bullet and buy a 6V Optima battery. No maintenance and lasts like forever. Have a 12 yr old one and it is still going strong. And I only charge it once in awhile.
6 volts can be just as reliable as 12. The system was sufficient when it was built to run it. It'll be sufficient now if the system is up to snuff. amke sure everything is in proper order and of proper sizing.
if you are starting it up and running it often the battery should stay charged, just make sure you dont have any shorts or other problems. You could always keep one of those emergency jump start packs in the trunk too.
porkn****** is absolutely right!! 67 year old - original - wiring is a fire waiting to happen. The original wire was insulated with a RUBBER jacket covered with a fabric loom. ANY movement of the wiring harness WILL cause the rubber insulation turn to powder. The only thing keeping the conductors separated after the rubber turns to powder, is the fabric wrap! DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NOW; AND RE-WIRE!!
And 12V is a dangerous crutch for bad wiring and connections...the voltage will blow through the high resistance places more easily, both to the things you want to work and to the things you don't want...short circuits to ground, closely followed by fire... If you have wiring probs, bite the bullet now and replace it. The car will not be likeable, useful, or safe with bad wiring of any voltage. Cars with endless electrical issues ****. Rewiring kills multiple problems, and is usually a huge upgrade.
Doesn't Optima make a high cranking amp 6 volt battery? That certainly couldnt hurt. I've had three 6 volt cars and its a whole different ball game than a 12 volt system.
Thing is, it should crank fast enough with any fully charged 6-V battery. Source of resistance needs to be found and fixed, not overwhelmed.
It sounds like it's important for you to keep it stock. Depending on what kind of car it is, you MAY be able to get a new and complete wiring harness that's wrapped in cloth so that it looks original. Kanter might be a good place to start
First, I want to thank all of you for great responses. Don't stop. this is VERY helpful. Next I 'll add some info. The wiring is all nos brand new replacement for 6v. Actually the whole car is like it rolled off the showroom yesterday. THough a simple oversight like the batt cable could easily be the culprit. I'll start goin through it asap. THanks again all you guys. (and girls?, nah, probably not.)
Is Ford?? Anyway, a start: Get multimeter, check volts at battery, at solenoid on BOTH sides, at starte. Then check voltage across GROUND cable, while someone is cranking the starter. You'll learn a lot...this is checking for specific places where voltage drops, locating places of resistance. Be very su****ious of modern bat cables... On smaller wire circuits, expect resistance at connections from either dirt or paint, resistance at grounding points (mostly the actual structural connection), again because of paint or dirt or rust. Extra grounds on things like starter, engine block, instrument cluster can suddenly cure 10 problems at once...
I have a 6 volt system in my buick, merc, and dodge. As for the slow cranking, ever thought about using an 8 volt battery? it gives the starter just a little bit more, and keeps everything nice and bright
Again, if a 6V bulb needs an 8V system to look right...you've lost 2V somewhere in your wiring! This is like adding a blower to your engine because the brakes are dragging... A 6V system can work well, but losses from defects become apparent more quickly than with 12. I've had both 6 and 12 volt cars become suddenly much more pleasant to live with because i tinkered with either connections in hot side or cleaned and added extra wires to ground side. Old iron depends on all those bolts and screws holding body and frame connections for most grounds...and those connections are generally defective, because of crud on original cars, because of paint on restored cars. I like adding more battery cable to tie body shell, starter, and block directly to the batt ground cable, adding a 10-gauge wire tied to one of those grounds to instrument cluster, headlight grounds to body, etc.
There is no problem with keeping it 6 volts. The one thing I would do is to get a 6 volt Optima battery. These thinga are unbelievable. First time you crank your engine on one, you'll think you were boosting your old 6 volt battery with 12 volts.
Make shure you have the right cables. 6v cables are twice as thich as 12v. And make sure the starter is well grounded to start with. You need a good strong battery.
I agree! Put my Optima in my old Hudson Superjet and normally it turns over very slow with a Group 2 6V battery. But that Optima turned it over so fast that I thought the timing had skipped and there was no compression. Just a really great battery for those nasty slow starting 6V systems.
I had a similar problem with my Pontiac - hard time keeping the battery charged. Everything was working fine - generater was good, new battery, regulator functioning to spec, but I'd still be losing the juice. Was talking with an older gentlemen one night at a cruise night and he suggested I adjust the regulator voltage to 8 volts - works great every since.
I agree with the guys that say keep it 6 volt, with possibly an Optima. I have had a bone stock original '51 Ford club coupe for the last 20 years, and with the exception of a bad ground on the horn, the only problem I had is that if it was over 90 outside, it was hard to start unless you kept the hood open when you parked it after driving it. The Optima solved that problem. Another reason I bought the Optima is that the only 6 volt batteries I could find lately were Group 1. They may be all right for a 4 cylinder tractor or a Plymouth or Chevy, but a flathead Ford originally came with a group 2 or 2L. The group 1's are quite a bit smaller and don't seem to have the "oomph" of the larger batteries. If you have a Ford, don't use a Group 1. Remember, the early Oldsmobile Rockets and the first 331 hemis were 6 volts, and people here in Minnesota would drive them all winter with no problem. Since most of the places I drive it to in hot weather are shows, leavng the hood open was never a real problem.
Again, if a 6V bulb needs an 8V system to look right...you've lost 2V somewhere in your wiring! This is like adding a blower to your engine because the brakes are dragging... LOL, put very well.
Right! The voltage is lower with a 6V system, but has higher amperage. Get some HUGE cables - even welding cable will work. And you didn't say anything about the generator - I put a 6V Pos. ground alternator (one wire GM style) on my '49 Stude Champion with an Optima battery and made it bulletproof! The headlights stayed bright while idling at a light, and it always started right up in the winter. (just a suggestion)
I ran my 6 volt system for 4 or 5 years, mostly as a daily driver. The old timer I bought it from had set it up so well that it would fire up as soon as I hit that ****on. The only problem I ever had was hot days, it took a bit some times to start. 5 Years later, and it didn't start as easy, I just didn't have the knowhow to adjust things as well. I've since converted to 12v and have never looked back. I think it's one of the best things you can do. Cheap, and easy, and noticable results. You don't need to adjust things to perfect harmony. There's a reason car manufacturers went to 12v in the mid 50's
The best battery cables for 6 volt are the ones you make from welding cable. Welding cable has more strands of copper. The size is 2,O. Crimp the ends and solder. Use srink tubing on the ends. You can send them once they are made to a wiring company to have the cloth brading installed to make them look orginial if you want.
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