i want to make it look a little bit better,so i think im going to rattle can it from the bottom of the windows down flat black just to make it look a little bit better for the few more months i get to drive it.i was thinking of taking the trim off since i'll have to this winter anyways,but man there is alot of it.anyone got any tips? paint brands,etc?
haha dont worry.the caps are coming off as soon as it gets rollin again.im afraid to take them off until i can hit them with a high pressure wash to wash out what i believe are brown recluse spiders that i have living behind one of them and on the luggage rack...i hope my damned radiator gets here today!!
I rattle canned mine so it would be one color instead of four. Work in sections, tape carefully, and work from the top down. Try not to create "rows" while you spray; using more random patterns won't leave as many telltale lines in the final paint product. Here's the key- Wash it with those green scrubby pads, with a bit of Simple Green mixed into your soapy water.Each time you wash it, you'll be sanding it a bit, which means the look will improve a little the more you "wash" it. I used white rattle can primer on my wagon, and until I can afford paint this is how it'll be. Touch-ups are easy, and the scrubby pad technique has made keeping it looking "clean" much easier. Here's a pic too! Scotch~!
The best paint out of a can is krylon engine paint from kragen,w/special blue tip for maximun coverage ...Low gloss black looks good,after you have your coats on the car,and theres the typical spray paint pattern take a can and spray it a foot or more away and that takes care of the highs and lows.......hey they have cheap metalflake to,just painted my bucket with it ......but only because im a broke bastard
If you ever plan on actually paiting the car you will be sorry you rattle canned it. Its alot mroe work to tak eoff spray pant that car paint. Just my .02 My painter yelled at me for it before. -Andrew
Walmart 94 cent rattlecans. Dries quick, easy to strip at a later date. Get one of those handles that clips onto the can, to avoid sprains of your trigger finger. Just like with a gun, keep the can even with the surface (don't move it in a arch), watch your spray pattern, and overlap by about 50%.
Just take your time with it (if you want it to look nice). If actually rattle can'ing paint and not primer... Do the prep work, and after go over it with a mild polishing compound. It'll help get rid of some of the surface imperfections/orange peel effect. I've painted quite a few motorcycles this way and it comes out great.
Painted mine with cheap-ass autozone grey primer and flat white for the roof. Easy enough to touch up every year, but it took a few days for my index finger to recover...
man, i wish i hadda thought of those clip on things for the top of the can...woulda saved the ol' index finger a bit!! We flat blacked my sisters wagon a coupel of months ago..we didnt take off any chrome, just masked it all up, even the badges!! Heres a shot of my sister and her weapon of choice in a before shot...
You realize those particulate masks are only keeping your boogers from being black, doncha? They ain't doin' nuthin' fer yer lungs!
Yeah and they didnt even do a very good job at that!!! I was snottin flat black for a week!! Lungs?? with the shit I used to breath on the London Underground everyday, paint fumes are like air freshener..
Howdy, It will add to the overall cost of the job, but I found that priming first with a good mathed color primer realy helped to lay the finish color down nicer. I did roof, hood, and scallops on my 59 Chrysler that way and they still look solid after a year and a half. True
you know you could get some REAL paint for probaly close to the same price you'd spend on the 4,000 cans of spraybomb primer and color you'd use on a wagon. I don't understand rattlecanning a whole car, I only do it for little temporary shit....
This IS temporary, isn't it? I know mine is...it's preferable over the rust that was growing through the original paint on mine. 46Stude- Thanks for the compliment. I've had it less than a year and I work on it quite regularly. I'm focused on drivetrain now after getting the suspension/brakes up to road racy goodness, and I've got an 87-octane 383 I'll be building in the next month or so for it. I'm hoping for 475hp on 87, and I'll back it with a T-56 6-speed. It's my daily driver/hauler/cruiser/soon to be tow vehicle. I have raced it on a local road course. (see pic) ...and yes, it wears Home Depot White Primer. LOL!! Scotch~!
[ QUOTE ] This IS temporary, isn't it? I know mine is...it's preferable over the rust that was growing through the original paint on mine. [/ QUOTE ] yeah this is tempoaray..i have bare metal showing in lots of places.i have since i owned it.so i want to throw some primer on those spots,but i dont want stock paint and primer.so im going to do just the bottom half of the car.two tone it.i know if i dont primer those spots,when it hits that michigan air,they are all going to get surface rust starting. any tips on masking trim and badges?
I used a satin red primer in a can, about 12 of them) to do my wagon. I had a nice black primer but did not like the patty wagon look. It is splochy but OK with me. Conside something other then black, The one thing I noticed about PASO was that the car were in colored primers and the hotrods were in blacks and greys.. just my 2 cents...
have something to "warm up" the cans first. I mean, shake, then spray some paint on the wall or something for a bit before you shoot the car. For some reason, I have had problems with the paint being splotchy and running for the first minute or so... And when the cans empty, dont try to milk it for all its worth. its better to leave a bit in the can than it is to get the spitting and what not that comes at the end of a can. And if you can, set up a fan or two to suck the over spray out of the garage, all that mist in the air lands back on the paint and helps that no good dry, rough texture and kills any shine that may be supposed to be in the paint... -J.
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