Some time next week I'll get my car back from being media blasted. I'm planning to do as much of the paint and body work as I can, hopefully without screwing it up too badly. My question is, what type/model of paint gun would you guys recommend? Will one gun with different tips accomodate spraying everything from the primer to the finish coat? Thanks in advance for the help, hope to post pictures soon (if my kids will show me how!)
i can could make it work with a harbor freight gun that they sell for 12 bucks. start to finish with one gun. but i also have about 7 or 8 highend guns. but its nice to have a gun with a big tip for primer, then a base and clear size. u should atleast buy a dedicated primer gun with a 2.0 tip, that will spray polyprimer and high build urethane. http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=AZ3HV u want an hvlp for primer cuz u dont want to waste all the material. the same gun in 1.3 works good for a base and clear gun. there arent too many guns around the 100 dollar mark that will last u that long, so thats why i buy the cheap harbor freight guns, cuz y spend 100 bucks on a cheap gun when u can get one for 15. they seem to be the same quality.
or you can buy a decent gun that you can get rebuild parts for, that does a better job, and lasts for more than one job.... they're a bit more but you get what you pay for.... I'm a DeVilbiss fan, but SATA, Sharpe, and Binks are good as well.... HVLP is the only way to go these days. Most of them sell kits in their lines that have everything you need... http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/FinishlineIIIKIT.htm is a pretty good deal in my opinion, don't fall for the disposable generation...
I vote Devilbiss as well. The make a line that they named Starting Line for obvious reasons. A great 2 gun setup can cost you around 200 and will do everything you want to do and last forever.
For a pro like you, ya. But for someone just starting, the price doesnt hurt, and its a decent gun, not an HF special.
Get the HF model for shooting primer and then something like a Sharp Finex gun for paint/clear. You can get them for around $100 and they shoot pretty nice.
I've got a few Sata's, but I picked up a Devilbiss Finishline for doing flake work (2.0 or 2.2 tip). I would recommend this gun for the beginner. You can get it from smartshoppers.com for under 100$!!!!!! Get the 2.0 tip for primer, and a smaller one for paint (1.3 or 1.4). I've seen a lot of beginners get frustrated, and give up because they were trying hard to do good wok, with ****ty equipment. Wit a good gun you have a better chance of doing a decent job. Of course, even a cheap gun in experienced hands can do a good job, but a beginner needs all the help they can get! Be sure to take care of the gun well, especially in cleaning it! Esp. if you are using it for primer, paint AND clear!!!!!
It's the best of the starter guns, it's maintainable, it shoots a lot better than the HF piece of ****. But why am I arguing with you. I've looked at your other posts, you know everything about painting, I should ****ing bow to your knowledge. But the things I noticed, no intro, not backing up what you say, just negative replies. Kinda makes me discount everything you say. Maybe enlighten us with your knowledge, like why exactly does something ****, not just that it does in your opinion, or **** off. Oh and you spelled sick wrong. Yes it is. It is rebuildable and shoots well. Not as good as some of the more expensive guns but better than the HF. One of the things I've learned over the years is you buy the best tools you can afford. They last longer and they perform better.
excellent point, cleaning is very important, hell I have a couple older guns that are still working great because they were cleaned well after every use. The death of a decent gun is not cleaning it well.
Hmnnnn - you're a HOT RODDER ---- right??? Go to the swap meet and buy a 10 dollar DeVilbiss - rebuild it if necessary and have the best of both worlds -a cheap GOOD paint gun that you CAN get parts for. For a beginner/weekend warrior I have yet to use anything easier to spray with than my 10 dollar swapmeet DeVilbiss MBC hooked up to my 15 dollar pressure pot. Instant gratification isn't always what it's cracked up to be.
This is a gun that I've been using recently. Not quite an HVLP, but is pretty efficient and sprays really nicely. Devilbiss GFG-670 http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraygundepot/devgfg670.aspx Can some of the more experienced painters post up some tips on proper gun cleaning and how they go about it? Like someone else said, improper cleaning can kill the gun.
I paid about $150 for the two gun Starting Line kit that the Eastwood Company sells. So far I've shot about 3 gallons with it and am pretty satisfied. The sweet spot for correct pressure, volume and pattern is fairly small. This may have more to do with an erratic air supply than the guns. It comes with 3 tips and seems to do everything I'm asking of it. Eastwood also sells a rebuild kit for the set.
Just another bit of advice/opinion. I will never use anything but HVLP again. Well unless they come up with something magic and better. Less overspray & less materials needed. That means it saves time and money... and that's good...
I have a cheapo swap meet gun for primer that works decent enough. And I bought a Finishline about 5 years ago and painted a dozen or so cars with it with very good results. I don't paint professionally and I taught myself using tips and advice I've picked up along the way. Good luck, and by a very good respirator with exchangable filters.
That's probably the biggest sinlge reason for a gun not working correctly. Not enough CFM to run it. That and to much pressure.
when ur spending about 150, u might a well spend another 150 and get a devilbiss gti. dont knock the harbor freight at 12 bucks a pop. i can flow out clear with those ****ers and spray a clean candy on rhinos with them. my main guns are iwata, sometimes i just dont feel like breaking them down everytime to clean them.
great post. i forgot about the finex. nice decent guns under 100 bucks that u can get replacement **** for.
Wow, glad you can paint (or so you say) cause your english skills **** ***. I'm not all **** hurt, but like your reply to the Kirker thread, maybe give the guy a little insight as to why it ****s. You really don't get it. And the Finish Line stuff does fine, maybe you were thinking of the Starting Line stuff. But I've had good results with those as well. What do I have against Harbor Freight? It's mostly cheap ****. Half the times you'll have to take something back 3 times to get one that works. I've seen the paint guns come out of there with broken o-rings in them from the start and not functioning correctly. The funny thing is I got PM's after I replied to you about your negative ********. I'll take the pats on the back from those people a hell of lot more seriously than your ebonics.
And at that spend another $100 and get a Sata. I have 3, all bought on ebay and all for under $400. That works for me. Maybe you can, who knows. Hell, I've even used an NR95 knockoff to blend in silver pearl on a collision job because thats all I had access to at the time and it matched. But for someone just starting, no way in hell are they going to get half decent results with one of them. I keep an HF gun hanging up for shooting flake, but thats it. I would never in a million years grab an HF gun over my Sata when they are both within reach. Thats just retarded.
I started with a Finex and it was great. Laid down comparable to my buddies Sata. Got clogged one day, took it apart to clean it and it needed a rebuild. Rather than order the parts, I tossed it in favor of a Sata RP. Never turned back.
i started with an iwata lph400. i got used to it, some painters dont like it because it sprays too soft. it is also kind of a slow gun and some metallics can be a pain. those rps really do lay the paint down, i just dont think after using the iwata and knowing what the satas spray like, might be a pain to switch. the finex kind of under atomizes a touch, and its easier to get peel u know? but its good for the price.
in the booth thats one thing. ive had alot of little ******** stuff lately, cleared a couple of helmets, blended and cleared a rhino fender, numerous spot primers. i just used it. in a booth a nice complete or something worth wild ya, id grab my iwata. could i do it with hf, for sure. have i had to in a pinch, or helpin people out who didnt have a good gun and harbor freight was near by, hell ya. ive been using the 12 dollar ones that are non hvlp, just turned down a little. the shop is a stones throw from them. have u tried the 30 dollar buffer? great for the price, ive done 2 complete trucks and a couple rhinos with them. it still works.
Hey Billsat, I don't think you told us what you wanted out of a spray gun, or what other than spraying material,you were going to do withone? Is this a one time , one shot deal, or are you planning other jobs with your spray gun purchase? To advise a guy who has never pulled the trigger on a spray gun, in his life, that he needs a 2,3, or $400.00 tool is insane! Yes, if I were shooting a deep red candy-mica & clear @ over 5 0r 6 hundred dollar a gallon, I'd probably want a top line spray gun. If on the other hand I was just shooting a standard BB/CC or older enamel, and or polyprimer or surfacer I'd be a complete fool to buy more tool than I could hope to util- ise. About seven months ago, I shot an older long bed pick up for a friends kid. originally, I was jus' going to help him mask and sand it and wound up gettin dragged into shooting it at the last minute. When I asked what type of gun he had, he pulled out one of those Chi-Comm. Binks #7 knock-offs! Basically a sixty-seventy year old spraygun design, in Chinise drag! My gut reaction was oh,****, this job is headed to hell in a handbasket! I than figured wtf, lets load some thinner into it, and see what pattern, if any ,we can get. The first p***, shot over 36" masking paper showed a dry pattern at top and bottom. I adjusted the fluid knob (that's the one clostest to your wrist) and again shot another test p***. This time I got a great looking 7'' p*** with no fuzzy margins shot at 45 lbs. at the gun. Yeah, the 'machine work' on some of the parts was 'interesting', but the fluid cup was metal, and below the wrist, where it belongs! There was no waiting for the gun to 'catch up with the material, no over reduction of the material necessary, which is a leading cause of early paint failure, and the kid gave only twenty bucks for it at a swap meet! The point here is there is a **** load of material and tools being sold today, as the latest and greatist-you gotta have this, or your work will be subrate, that just isn't true. Don't fall for the ********, and don't get your ego all wrapped up in it, after all it's only paint! S****ey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
lol in a long way id say u feel me on what on some of what i said. a china binks knock off, anywhere close to the real thing? to me, its the painter not the gun (99% of the time)
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