Anyone have a idea what size the thread is for the chrysler screw in ball joints for mustang 2 a arms
I think that they cut their own threads,that said,no I do not know.I do know there are 2 different size Mopar screw in ball joints!
most mustang ii a-arms use the upper balljoint for the lower and upper arms, i believe moog #k227 (maybe?) but anyways the thread size i do not know, but ive had to repair these threads before and i just bought a cheap balljoint and used a cutting wheel to grind paths in the threads like a shallow flute on a tap or chaser to carefully thread them in and fix the damaged a-arm threads from welding or heating or whatever i hope this helps, if your looking to make the screw in sockets yourself, then i suggest you buy one and take it to a lathe with some threadding capabilities and match the thread size and cut them on the lathe, because a tap that big is gonna be like mad crazy hard to find it would tweak my melon just to see the size of that ****er
take a ball joint and grind the top off to remove the stud then cut two slots with a hacksaw 90 degrees apart in the threded section it will give you 4 slots that act as chasers and allows the body to compress slighty use this as your tap . i use a new ball joint because the threads are sharper . in the future make a slug that fits snugly into the threaded adapter when you weld it and leave it in untill it is complety cool .
This sounds like the instructions for installing a cheap gearshift knob, not a suspension part! What keeps it from "un-self-threading" while on the road? "Faith"?
Same thing that keeps most ball joints from pulling thru the a-arm ( the lip ! ) And yes, sometimes they will not thread in after welding. We made chasers like skar says.. Sure glad we don't use em' any longer ! Dave
I would probably use a thread file. I've never had the threads distort on mine, but my jigs all hold the ring in place pretty snug, and don't leave any room for the bung to move out of round, which may be what happened. I have a lot of the rings in my shop though, I can measure the thread pitch as well as the major and minor diameter of the threads. Do you need the upper or lower balljoint threads? I'll check this thread in the morning before I head to the shop. Also, the uppers are K772, and the lowers are K778. I prefer to use Falcon balljoints over MOOG though, they seem a lot nicer.
You can probably get a close idea measuring the ID with a caliper and how many threads per inch easily enough. It should be a standard SAE thread and there are online charts available. It may be easier to measure up the ball joint threads. The bugaboo is finding a tap big enough to do the fix. Forget about chucking the whole arm on a lathe. I agree that your best bet is a thread chaser (looks like a file) but most of those are suited for external threads. The only other option is to have a creative buddy with a machine shop that can do some voodoo or get real careful and up close with a dremel. Bob
different brand ball joints vary in size .005 to .015 with moog being the tightest fit. here is where to get a tap to fit moog bj's http://www.victorypp.com/lis***em.jsp?item=1125
always if you tell us a year....kinda like Tim....yes they make a socket for them that screw out and in....there are some that are pressed....
There are 3 sizes of Mopar screw in joints. A body.. B,C and E body and truck (largest of the three). I have sockets for the two p***enger car sizes and had to make one for trucks.... I could not find one any where. Sent from my LG-H343 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have seen them come out before. Someone did not get them started in straight and the threads pulled out. Screw the joint back in and put a spot weld on it cures that. Sent from my LG-H343 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I have the impact socket. I just dial-up the impact gun, and run 'em in. Naked MII arms have no threads. The ball joints cut them.
Guys the lower and upper ball joints Chrysler style if you need a Tap/ Chaser for them .you can purchase them from Clover Tool Grinding in Clover S C Phone 803 222 7985 The lower is bigger than the Upper . They are a little pricy but they work really well especially after welding the rings in to control Arms If you do enough of them tap well worth the money and it stays sharp forever Hope this helps someone out there