i WAS WONDERING WHAT THE BEST TYPE OF PRIMER OR WHAT YOU GUYS USE TO SPRAY ON BARE METAL THAT STILL NEEDS BODY WORK ,MY SITUATION IS THAT THE CAR WILL TAKE A WHILE IT IS ALREADY STRIPPED WITH SUM SCRATCHES WITH RUST INSIDE THEM KIND OF DEEP WELL NORMAL SCRATCHES AND IT STILL NEEDS BODY WORK LIKE DENTS AND SHEET METAL REPLACEMENT WHAT IS THE BEST PRIMER FOR SOMETHING THAT WILL TAKE A WHILE BUT I DONT WANT IT TO RUST WHAT DO YOU GUYS SUGGEST
Hey, Before you invest in good primer, I'd suggest you look into removing all of the rust. Shooting even cheap primer over rust is a waste of time and money. After the rust has been removed, an etch primer, followed by a good epoxy would be your best investment to protect your car. I use to like DP90 a.k.a."yellow death", but ever since they removed the lead from it, I've got my doubts! I'm hearing good things about HOK (House Of Color) epoxy primers lately. S****ey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
I'm in the same boat, but mine is sand blasted. The paint guy told me to shoot it with a self etching epoxy to keep it from flash rusting and then I could do my body work over it. Then when I'm ready to paint to shoot a normal primer then my base/clear. I was hoping I could use the same primer, instead of an epoxy, then another primer.
Hey, If you have blasted your sheetmetal I'd go with an etching primer for sure. The old epoxy primers use to do a good job of holding back rust, but you can no longer get epoxy primer with lead in it. The "stuff' they market as jus' as good, today, I've my doubts. If you go the etching primer route, be sure to get one that can be used under epoxy and plastic filler, not all brands sold can. You must spray primer over the etching primer, prior to doing any filler work, or top coats of finish. S****ey Devils C.C. "Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"
I thought the dp90 would be good for the bare metal and to help fill in some of the pits and the marks sandblasting left behind. The guy showed me the equivalent to the dp series in a epoxy. Will the epoxy coat help fill in pits and scratches?
You're all crossed up! DP is epoxy. Its not the best, but its a decent product. The DP line is non-sanding, meaning it is meant for build to fill in scratches, pits, etc. Then you would come in with a sanding primer on top of it to block out. I have always used HOK Epoxy priumer on all bare metal. I haven't ever used etching primer because of the known compatibility issues it can have with other products. The HOK Epoxy is great over bare metal, it fills, and sands great, and is great with filler. If youre set on Epoxy, I'd look into it.
Many of us that have been at this for years long for the old DP formulas. Well they're still available. And less money too...Shopline epoxy primers. They come in grey, white, and black. In order to make PPG DPLF primers they need to spend extra $$$ removing the trace metals and other things to make it "greener" for high volume uses. Always get tech sheets before using etch primers on bare metal to check compatability with topcoat primers or epoxies. Some etch primers can act like a parting agent for certain filler primers. At times this can be immediate, at other times once the bright sunlight hits the new finish, and wouldn't that kick ya in the balls... This may be obvious, but use caution crossing brands as well. The only "safe" crossover of brands I've found is most regular urethane reducers, not reactive reducers or "base maker" reducers which have catalyst ingredients. Grow Chemical, Shopline (like 505, 506, 507), and HOK's "R" reducers are pretty much identical. Shopline is the lowest price in our area, but we get a commercial deal on it as well. Good luck, and GET THE TECH SHEETS. They're free.
Check out the SPI line of primers, they are made for the hot rod industry, not the production shops. You cant go wrong with their epoxy over bare metal,will not rust thru and you can apply fillers over it. Just what you need so you can protect your bare steel as your project continues. The owner of SPI also takes phone calls 24-7 to answer any questions you have about your projects paint work. Do yourself a favor and check them out before you purchase another product line.
I used Kirker epoxy primer on bare metal. Sprayed nice and was not to expensive. I was very happy with the results. go to www.abtm.com to see their products. Todd
the guys name is barry, yes he answers his phone pretty much everyday. southernpolyurethanes.com is the site which also has a forum. informative to those who need to know.
i dont use ppg dp much for baremetal. ive been using alot of metalok by sem. just like hok's but cheaper. i do like dp for use as a plastic sealer with the 401 catalyst. or just as a normal sealer for paint.
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