Are there any tech articles on how to properly install a rear main bearing seal on a '54 235 engine? It has a rope seal. By the way, I have pulled out the 216 out of my '53 and will install the '54 235.
The '54 Chevy Shop Manual (or any Chevy shop manual from '54-'62) details the install very well. They're available in reprint or an original on Ebay, swap meets, etc.
The general idea is that no matter what you do, they leak. The Inliners International news letter "The 12 Port News" a few years ago had 2 articals on how to install a one piece Lip seal that did not leak. Both required machining one way the crank flange the other the rear of the block and rear main cap. I think the first one may have been around Feb 06? The bad news is I wrote that one. But I did the machine work for another guy who had the idea and knows whats up. You might look up Bob Anderson Motor Sport in Yuma Az. May have a web page, I know you can look up his phone number on line.
Unless it's pouring, let it leak.. it will keep the rust away. Seriously, when I first built my 235 in my '52, it was seeping like they all do, and I was concerned. My grandad (first certified as a GM mechanic in '47) said they never made one that didn't leak, even when new. 60k plus miles later it's still leaking.. If you want to put a new rope seal in, there are installation kits that have the 'chinese finger' deal that pulls it through. Brian
I have a question will a 62 neoprene seal work in a 55 engine the originally has a rope seal? OldWolf
With a few thou off the crank a slant 6 one oiece seal fits a GMC six. There's a toyota seal that does the same for the stovebolt 6. Vitrow #403688V which is 116mm OD and 98mm ID. If my menory serves me correct, the bearing landing must be enlarged to suit this seal. The webrodder.com series had an article on the replacement of the rear main. Its in the archive section.
Weird, my old 56' 235 doesnt leak a drop. And im pretty sure its all original. The car sat in a field for 15+ years, and only recently been fired up and had fresh oil pumped around that seal. Guess i better not mess with it!
Loosen all the main caps about 2 turns. Use the rear main cap to form/shape the new upper half by using a large socket or simular to compact it into the groove. With a VERY sharp razor blade trim off the excess about 1/16 above the cap face. Cut from the inside to the outside. Be sure all the old is out of the block groove and oil the new half and gently feed it around the crank, rotating crank if needed. Then fit the new lower half to the cap the same way.Do not leave any seal material over hanging the cap/block parting face. Don't like the Chinese finger trap puller as it streches the seal tending to make it too loose. Some people say cut it too long and using a blunt punch drive it back into the groove. Haven't had much luck trying this as it tends to mess up the end of the seal. Bad news is practice makes perfect so usually you get to do it several times. Works the first time --- go buy a lottery ticket as you are lucky.
The Jalopy Journal
