Whats that stuff that you paint over rust with?

I can't remember the name of it. You paint over rust and it kills the rust somehow.

 

POR15

 

POR-15...works great. Just remove all the loose stuff and paint it on. It levels out nice and works good on frames, brakes, suspension stuff. Tougher than normal paint, almost like powder-coating!

 

There's also Zero Rust and Rust Bullet.

 

Cool.. Thats it. Anyone know how its layed on? Sprayer? Do you thin it out at all?

 

Brush, you can spray it. They recommend only a 5% mix with there reducer/solvent

 

Which one, genius?
POR 15 is brushed on, I think,
Zero Rust is sprayed (also sell it in convenient spray cans)and I don't know anything about Rust Bullet.

 

Orchard supply sell there own brand a lot cheeper. They call theirs a "Rust encapsolater" Works great though and is cheeper than POR 15

 

Walmart auto dept. It's called rust convertor, $3.96 a spray can, and it works!
Just wire brush, spray it, wait 24 hours and paint right over it.

 

I use Rust Bullet and have both brushed it on and sprayed it on with great results. Use it straight from the can, no mixing, no mess, no topcoat needed. It only comes in grey and when sprayed kind of looks like the pieces have been powder coated. None of the pieces that have been coated have chipped or peeled and it's been 4 months. I even used it to coat the p***anger floor and trunk in Big Olds and not a spot of it has come off yet with all the people stepping on it and all the ****, chairs, coolers, car parts, etc, sliding across it. Has not faded either with tons of direct sun beating on it all the time.
$30 for a quart and I got it from our very own Enjenjo.

 

I'm a big fan of brush-on Rustoleum. For best results use the Rusty Metal Primer first and then topcoat with your choice of color. It covers like a rug.

Ed

 

i have tried em all, and hands down por 15 is the winner- expensive yes, but worth it at twice the cost- when that stuff is on- you are done

 

I actually prefer a mixture of peanut ****er and sawdust, slap it on there and let it dry. then you sand it down and paint over it, preferably with a sugar based paint. Works really good. If you want we can whip some up for you at Marks tomorrow.

 

what about naval jelly? anyone used that stuff lately?

trey

 

I use Rust Bullet. Excellent product and I had great results with it. A word of caution: I would strongly recommend users of Rust Bullet use self contained breathing apparatus when spraying. The night following a day of spraying with an Organic mask in a well ventilated area , I got sicker then a dog. Flu like systems, delirium and loss of short term memory. This lasted about 36 hours and it scared the **** out of me. I mean it! Took me 30 minutes of concentration before I could remember my dog’s name.

I didn’t connect my sickness to Rust Bullet until I read the MSDS sheet for the coating. I may have sensitivity to the chemical make up of this product, but for whatever reason, it kicked my ***

 

eastwood's Rust encapsolater
por 15
zero rust
all can be srayed or brushed on.
i use eastwoods stuff because you dont need to apply a topcoat, it's u.v resistant.

 

POR15 is great stuff! But don't get the stuff on your hands or body anywhere as that **** is tough to get off!

 

I've got some of the zero Rust and like it. It can be sprayed or brushed on. Don't know how it compares to Por 15 but it is alot cheaper.

 

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what about naval jelly? anyone used that stuff lately?

trey

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my dad used to use that stuff, it came in a pink bottle!

I asked about some a couple weeks ago at a paint store and they tried selling me some paint to kill rust, does all them paints and brews really work on rust?

 

POR15 - nothing else said....It works...period.

 

i have used both por and eastwoods stuff and i choose EASTWOODS hands down ..And it can be topcoated w/ just about everything .

 

I've used the stuff from Eastwood's. Can't remember the name rightnow though. It worked great. You can brush it on or spray it on. You can also get it in an aerosol can. Easy stuff. Brush off the old, spray on the new and then paint.

 

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what about naval jelly? anyone used that stuff lately?

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That's a good question, Trey.

There's also Evaporust.

Also, the POR-15 isn't UV stable. If left in sunlight, the black will start to turn a chalky white.

-Matt

 

I used (sprayed) POR 15 on a frame. I got some on my hands while mixing...took days to come off. It did chalk up. If you are going to topcoat POR 15 you have to do it within a short period of time (while it is stil tacky) because after it dries there will be adhesion problems. I was told this by my supplier as well as others that have tried it.

So...if you are going to paint over it then I'd use the zero rust, rust bullet , or the Eastwood stuff. Talk to Enjenjo or FatCat on here...they are distributors for the stuff I'll be using on my current project.

 

Before using any of the above products to seal the rust.
Be sure you neutralize it first. Picklex is by far the best product to neutralize before applying anything on the surface. My .02.... I love the way the Por 15 hides and smooths the surface after the application. Gets harder than hell too. I like using it for fenderwells and undercariage work. But for inner panels,trunks and the (in my case the outer body) I like using either Rust bullet or Zerorust its much easier to apply and can be sprayed without having to use an enclosed breathing system.

 

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I can't remember the name of it. You paint over rust and it kills the rust somehow.

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<font color="orange"> Rust Never Sleeps</font>

Painting over it just covers it, but deep inside the body of your pride and joy, it is still there, eating, chewing, reducing your car to a pile of ferrous oxide dust. Gotta remove that ****, neutralise it, kill it dead, and only THEN you can start covering up the waste carc*** of its remains. Rust: The great equaliser!

 

OSPHO works great too. Available at most auto body paint supply stores.

 

Eastwood's stuff is called Corroless, and it works great, coated my freshly sandblasted frame and it was left out in the Florida rain and semi-salty air for 2 years (under a plastic tarp but they get cooked in about a month and shred), the only places it started rusting again were the places I didn't get it on thick enough, like brush marks. I topcoated it with their ch***is black.

I haven't used Por15, so I can't compare.

 

I agree with 19Fordy, OSPHO does a good job of protecting bare metal, it'll burn your nose hairs if you spray it on but with the $$.
Rey

 

Guess I might as well get my 2 cents in - we use POR-15 in our shop - we are also the Iowa distributor for it. It works very well when the directions are followed. If it is exposed to direct sunlight, it will fade. Most any paint can be used as a topcoat and it is best if used when the POR-15 is tacky. POR does make topcoat paint. We have not used anything else so I cannot speak about other products but we have been very pleased with the results of POR-15. If you get it on you, it will come off before it dries with thinner. If it dries, it must wear off. If you spray it, make sure the area where you are is well ventillated. I did a tech article on the use of POR-15 a while back - not sure if it is still on the board. More information can be found at www.por-15.com.
Tom - restorit