Register now to get rid of these ads!

TECH: Cheap power windows for any car

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Radio Joe, Oct 9, 2008.

  1. Radio Joe
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 308

    Radio Joe
    Member

    This tech is how I made power windows for a car that did not have the option of power windows originally and no aftermarket kits are available (except universal kits which are expensive)- My 1965 Corvair. I used the stock crank up window regulator and the power window motor for a 1996 camaro ($25.00 each new for them on ebay). The camaro motor is compact and cheap and the gear was correct for my crank up regulator. For yoru car, you may need to pick a different motor- For example, if you are building a ford, a ford motor from a modern car may be needed. You will have to check what will work for your regulator

    So the idea is to modify the stock window regulator to accept a '96 camaro power window motor. Below is a picture of a stock regulator. I drilled a hole through the body and the gear and inserted a screw (circled) to keep the spring and gear in place. Once the crew is in place and the regulator cant come unsprung, drill out the 3 rivets holding the crank mechanism. Remove the mechanism and clean the old grease.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Radio Joe
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 308

    Radio Joe
    Member

    After you get it cleaned, measure from the crease line below the top bolt hole- 1 1/8" up. Cut it off at this line.

    Depending on your motor you will need to make a custom mount plate. The plate will be welded to the regulator and will hold the motor in the proper location to actuate the regulator. If using the '96 Camaro motor I can scan my plate and send it to anyone wanting to do the same. Cut the plate out of atleast 16awg steel. For my particular plate I drill all the holes at 5/32". You will need to dimple the center hole about 1/4" (Not Shown) AFTER its dimpled, drill the hole to the correct size (21/64"). The dimple helps bring the motor closer to the regulator for clearance.

    Once you are sure you can mount the motor to the bracket, slide it into place and then tack weld the bracket in place. Remove the motor and finish weld it and then grind the welds. DONT LAUGH AT MY CRAPPY WELDING!
     

    Attached Files:

  3. Radio Joe
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 308

    Radio Joe
    Member

    Now I must tell you the above picture shows the regulator with the motor mounted to the left. THIS DOES NOT FIT IN THE DOOR! Because of the way the motor body is formed, it must be mounted to the right. I made a new bracket set it all up and tack welded it. The motor is mounted to the bracket using 1" long 8/32". There are round 5/8" spacers used in between the motor and the bracket. Below is a picture of the correct bracket/ motor set up and a side view of the motor mounted.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Radio Joe
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 308

    Radio Joe
    Member

    The motor is pretty powerful. If you run the motor to either end of the regulator gear the motor will keep going. It will actually bend the bracket and then the regulator will unspring. That could hurt! To solve this you need to build up the last tooth on each end of the regulator gear to keep the motor from being able to keep going. The extra tall tooth actually stops the motor. You can see what I mean with the below pictures. The first is the stock Corvair regulator gear and the second is the camaro power window regulator gear. You can see the extra tall tooth on the camaro gear
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Radio Joe
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 308

    Radio Joe
    Member

    Some of the Corvair specific info- In order for this to fit and work the vent window channel needed to be trimmed- Your specific application may need similar work or not. In the pictures below you can see the trimmed channel and the regulator in place inside a door with the skin removed (for photo purposes)
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Radio Joe
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 308

    Radio Joe
    Member

    So when all is said and done it cost me $75 total for 2 motors, steel and connectors to make the conversion on 2 doors. Plus the satisfaction of doing it myself. Let m eknow if you have any questions for your own conversion
     
  7. As Obama said, "that is above my pay grade"
    If I tried this, you would here a boing! and then a siren.
     
  8. AWSOME!
    Viva la cheap bastards! :D

    I might be duplicating your work soon, still havent decided if I want power windows or not.
     
  9. mattcrp1
    Joined: Aug 20, 2007
    Posts: 401

    mattcrp1
    Member

    Be carefull with that spring when i was an apprentice in a ford dealer I almost cut my finger off with a spring wound regulator
     
  10. Radio Joe
    Joined: Jan 9, 2007
    Posts: 308

    Radio Joe
    Member

    Yes- Thanks for adding about the spring. The reason for the screw inserted in the first step is to keep the mech from unloading. You must be VERY careful around that spring.

    On a related note, if you do unload it and dont load it back correctly, the windows wont go up all the way without seriously loading the motors (and they will move real slow)
     
  11. fiftyv8
    Joined: Mar 11, 2007
    Posts: 5,401

    fiftyv8
    Member
    from CO & WA

    Extra cleaver work Joe.
    Thanks.
     
  12. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Some good tech this time round.
     
  13. One thing I might add. that spring is a counterbalance to off set the weight of the window. the weight of the window helps it down and the spring helps it up. roll it all the way up. mark the position of the spring or make a diagram to make sure you replace it properly. then remove the spring with a set of channel locks or vise grips and work safely
     
  14. mbmopar
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 467

    mbmopar
    Member
    from Canada

    HAHA ! Good thing I'm close to the fire hall with the ambulance !

    I had'nt thought about this but it makes perfect sesnse ! Thanks !!!!

    Derek
     
  15. DROPnDRIVE
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 61

    DROPnDRIVE
    Member
    from New Jersey

    good deal man! looks fairly straight forward, and cheap is ALWAYS a plus!
     
  16. Danimal
    Joined: Apr 23, 2006
    Posts: 4,150

    Danimal
    Member
    1. A-D Truckers

    Nice, cheap, work. Something to think about next round.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.