just read a ton of stuff on the HAMB here about thoughts on POR 15 etc. I was wondering if some of you have thoughts on one versus another and could post pics of what you used even. I have heard great things about the POR15 and then topcoated with the POR chassis coat for less sheen. thoughts? thanks!
POR is killer stuff...... only advice I can give is make sure you cover up whatever you do not want permanantly black.... like your floors, tools, hands.... face....
POR is a great choice for that application since you can do it out of the car (ie really do it right) and the rear axle is somewhat visible. Tough stuff.
Did the rearend of the '38 in POR two years ago. Used it as a step a number of tmes wjhile working on other things. No signs of any kind of wear. Suspect it will hold up a good long time. Follow the prep steps.
I used a can of flat black barbecue paint that I got on clearance for 99 cents at the local hardware store on my rear axle. That was 5 years and about 6,000 miles ago, and it still looks great. Anyone know if POR 15 resists brake fluid? Nothing else I've used does, although the BBQ paint didn't lift or peel, it just got soft and then eventually redried.
Hate to say it here... but in 20/20 hind sight I'd powder coat anything I could on the chassis. I did my frame with a brush and POR. It went from glossy to dull. It's still on there but not as nice looking. The parts I had powder coated gloss black are as shiny and chip free as the day I put them on. I also powder coated some fan shrouds and other small parts in satin black and they still look great, better than OEM new satin black. Word to the wise ifn you are painting your entire frame with a brush - even in an open garage - wear a ventilator that works with POR's vapors. I just about went stupid doing mine. I think I recoverredfrreverrrserrvdseed. Gary
If you use the POR 15, it'll work better if you sandblast the housing first and wipe everything really clean with lacquer thinner or acetone to get all the traces of grease and oil off. It doesn't stick very well to smooth surfaces.
POR 15 seems to be brake fluid resistant. I used it on the backing plates on my t-bird 2 years ago and got brake fluid on it. There still is no signs of it eating though it.
Yeah, if POR15 sits out in the sun much at all, it gets dull and chalky looking. POR15 sells some other stuff called "Top Coat" (or Top Kote?) that you paint over the POR15 while the POR15 is still slightly sticky, and that Top Kote stuff has UV inhibitors in it to stay glossy. That stuff looks pretty nice and it does stay glossy. I used POR15 followed by the Top Kote stuff to paint an old minibike frame about 10 years ago, and the minibike frame is still nice and glossy black. Even though I just brushed it on with a cheap disposable brush, it flowed out pretty nice and looked like it had been sprayed on. It kind of saves you from a lot of masking time when you can just brush it on where you want it.
Actually it's not entirely like that. The gloss POR is so slick it doesn't really hold dirt like a spray bombed rearend. And if you're like me you'll wipe visible components down when doing other undercar service, and it wipes back to brand new with one swipe. Spray bomb would require soap & water to get that clean again.
Great info. I won't be blasting the housing but I do intend to wire wheel the hell out of it to make it look good before brushing on the paint. I had seen on here some good results with brush on Rustoleum but I like how resistant to chemicals the POR stuff is. Thats the ticket I think.
BTW if the rearend is in the car you're gonna be wearing a lot of it. If not ya did a shitty job up top.
Someone recently posted an entry from another forum where some guy painted some sheetmetal with every well know rust inhibitor/converter, then chronicled the wear over the course of a year. I think Por15 and some other product faired the best. The other product was cheaper. Anyone remember that post? I've used a lot of POR15, and it works very well IF you prep right. If there is oil or the surface is too clean, it won't stick. It will turn out better if the metal has some light surface rust.
seconds on the powder coating. here in phoenix i get a frame sandblasted and powder coated for $250.00. how can you do it youself for that. what i dont powder coat i paint with rustoluem avail at home depot in quarts and spray cans.
POR 15 is good if you brush it on but to spray it through your gun you better have POR solvent. I use Chassie Saver cleans up with thinner it comes in gloss black flat black and gray. Way easier
I don't know if this is totally off topic, but I used tractor paint on my rear end. It's got just enough gloss to it to look nice but not show the small imperfections of the rear end. It's worked really well for me.
I sprayed a frame and axles with Por 15 about a year ago. It went on good, I used the $40 HVLP gun from Harbor Freight and it cleaned up good too with the Por solvent. I would recomend getting a buddy to help. We both had masks and switched off every 15 minutes or so to get fresh air. It went real good and the finish was great. I used satin. Also as others have said COVER YOURSELF it sticks like glue. We wore tyvec suits, hoods, gogles and mask.
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